1st time sump opinions needed

[jaws7777]

After talking some of the other members i decided to try a sump on the next tank i set up. To get my hands wet im going to build a "practice" sump out of a 30 gal. It will be the primary filter on a 75 tempered glass so no drilling i'll have to use a hob overflow. Before I figure out pump and overflow size i wanted to get opinion on the actual design of the sump. Let me know if these two options are ok. I apologize in advance for not knowing much about this and appreciate any help you guys can give.

Option 1


Option 2


I'll have to figure out the measurements for the hieght and width of the chamber later.

 

[jaws7777]

@millerkid519 @soupa2 @slippery slimecoat @ragin_cajun @Woefulrelic @DN328 @davenmandy

 

[Woefulrelic]

This is how mine is set up currently. It may allow for more water to enter the sump because the water level is not consistent. My sump is also like 6ft long so imagine it extended a bit lol. Option 1 is a similar set up but I think the third baffle (first segment) is redundant. I'm not informed enough to know why it works well, just that it does lol.

 

[davenmandy]

Frank I like you man. It's hard to tell you that you might be over thinking this when you do actually need to put some planning into this, but I think you just need to up and do it and tweak it from there. I will look at your design for flaws tomorrow, but in absense of that you should just do it and see what happens. I am going to upload a picture of my sump for your reference, and then my future sump for another idea to tell you convention is not the answer to everything and that you can customize what you like and what works for you once you get that basic principal stuff. Speaking of which, basic principals: mechanical pre filter, sufficient bio, output chamber. That's it, after that tweak the power outage stuff. See the plumping coming down from my sump to the ground? That is purely a catch tank I made after the fact to deal with the floods I had during power outages. You can do this too. Look up the thread that's titled "noobs stop over thinking sumps", I know you are not a noob but this is a good thread for you. Realize this is a work in progress. Be ready to shut your tank down for 4-6 hours while you work on upgrading your sump but start smaller. Take a look at what I have and work from this:



This is my future filter, drastically different, call it a sump if you want:



I will take a look in detail of your plans tomorrow and see if I see a flaw, too drunk atm. I think you are fine and just need to dive in, I think you will be happy to tweak.

 

[soupa2]

After talking some of the other members i decided to try a sump on the next tank i set up. To get my hands wet im going to build a "practice" sump out of a 30 gal. It will be the primary filter on a 75 tempered glass so no drilling i'll have to use a hob overflow. Before I figure out pump and overflow size i wanted to get opinion on the actual design of the sump. Let me know if these two options are ok. I apologize in advance for not knowing much about this and appreciate any help you guys can give.

Option 1
View attachment 1161874

Option 2
View attachment 1161875

I'll have to figure out the measurements for the hieght and width of the chamber later.

lets start with option 1: great idea but i'm just wondering how you're going to keep the egg creat suspended in the bottom?? the last baffle next to the pump and heat dictates your sump water level.. so that baffle is the most important baffle so choose that height wisely..too high will risk the sump can't hold all the water when pump shuts off...
Option 2: also a good but at the same question is how to suspend the egg creat in mid air?? now the most important baffle is the 3 baffle between the egg creat and bio ball..
both options i would suspend the sock about 2" above water line.. never near the water line.. to me i like water traveling in the sump with only one way out...

This is how mine is set up currently. It may allow for more water to enter the sump because the water level is not consistent. My sump is also like 6ft long so imagine it extended a bit lol. Option 1 is a similar set up but I think the third baffle (first segment) is redundant. I'm not informed enough to know why it works well, just that it does lol.

please don't get offended: my personal opinion here.. do you think since the water between the 2 foams where the bio +heater goes is like 2 tubes where water would likely travel the less friction or earlier path?? what i'm saying is only the bio sitting there when water travels just the top position of the 2 baffles.. its like the bio is sitting in a dead area of the sump or tank?? just my thought..

 

[duanes]

There will be many opinions here, and all are good options, and all valid.
But...I don't use, or see the need for baffles in any of my sumps, I find them confining, and hard to work around when doing maintenance. And if maintenance is difficult, or not user friendly, it doesn't get done, and water quality suffers.
I put filter socks under the water lines to the sump ( easy to remove and clean) , I put biological media in mesh bags that can be easily removed to shake, or rinse out in water change water.
Heaters laying horizontally somewhere in the bottom (lower than pump intakes, so they are always covered in water, in case of a power failure , or some other problem), and pumps on the opposite end from where the water enters, using a union on the pump outlet for easy screw on screw off maintenance.
Filter socks for mechanical.

biological media in bags

pump with PVC union

I tried baffles years ago, and found them more trouble than they are worth.

 

[Woefulrelic]

lets start with option 1: great idea but i'm just wondering how you're going to keep the egg creat suspended in the bottom?? the last baffle next to the pump and heat dictates your sump water level.. so that baffle is the most important baffle so choose that height wisely..too high will risk the sump can't hold all the water when pump shuts off...
Option 2: also a good but at the same question is how to suspend the egg creat in mid air?? now the most important baffle is the 3 baffle between the egg creat and bio ball..
both options i would suspend the sock about 2" above water line.. never near the water line.. to me i like water traveling in the sump with only one way out...



please don't get offended: my personal opinion here.. do you think since the water between the 2 foams where the bio +heater goes is like 2 tubes where water would likely travel the less friction or earlier path?? what i'm saying is only the bio sitting there when water travels just the top position of the 2 baffles.. its like the bio is sitting in a dead area of the sump or tank?? just my thought..

I had similar concerns. In the baffles I've added bio rings for that purpose on top of both foam pads. I stack my media to form a wall in the middle compartment, like biorings on top of biorings that span the width of the sump with air stones underneath. I've done enough research to convince myself that bacteria will perform well enough in any oxygen rich environment for my needs at this time, but I certainly shared your concerns.

 

[jaws7777]

Thanks guys. I was thinking to suspend the eggrate with silicone, no good ? Should i forget the eggrate and just let the foam sit on something.


I guess i could just remove the last baffle. I thought there would he allot of bypass in respects to the bio.


If i remove that last baffle will the 3rd baffle will still dictate the water level right..


@davenmandy lmao sounds like you had a good night. And yeah im a noob i fully admit it no ego here fellas

 

[millerkid519]

Frank I like you man. It's hard to tell you that you might be over thinking this when you do actually need to put some planning into this, but I think you just need to up and do it and tweak it from there. I will look at your design for flaws tomorrow, but in absense of that you should just do it and see what happens. I am going to upload a picture of my sump for your reference, and then my future sump for another idea to tell you convention is not the answer to everything and that you can customize what you like and what works for you once you get that basic principal stuff. Speaking of which, basic principals: mechanical pre filter, sufficient bio, output chamber. That's it, after that tweak the power outage stuff. See the plumping coming down from my sump to the ground? That is purely a catch tank I made after the fact to deal with the floods I had during power outages. You can do this too. Look up the thread that's titled "noobs stop over thinking sumps", I know you are not a noob but this is a good thread for you. Realize this is a work in progress. Be ready to shut your tank down for 4-6 hours while you work on upgrading your sump but start smaller. Take a look at what I have and work from this:

View attachment 1161880

This is my future filter, drastically different, call it a sump if you want:

View attachment 1161881

I will take a look in detail of your plans tomorrow and see if I see a flaw, too drunk atm. I think you are fine and just need to dive in, I think you will be happy to tweak.

I didn't think you where busting out the pictures yet Dave lol

 

[millerkid519]

After talking some of the other members i decided to try a sump on the next tank i set up. To get my hands wet im going to build a "practice" sump out of a 30 gal. It will be the primary filter on a 75 tempered glass so no drilling i'll have to use a hob overflow. Before I figure out pump and overflow size i wanted to get opinion on the actual design of the sump. Let me know if these two options are ok. I apologize in advance for not knowing much about this and appreciate any help you guys can give.

Option 1
View attachment 1161874

Option 2
View attachment 1161875

I'll have to figure out the measurements for the hieght and width of the chamber later.

Personally I think you have way to much going on in the sump from my experience. I will whip up a drawing when I get home