600 gallon acrylic tear down and rebuild or roll the dice?

wednesday13

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Ok, one more last question lol. Should I polish the acrylic in the corners prior to doing the rods? Or will the solvent address imperfections?
No need to polish it. You might want to experiment a bit here also tho with any extra material u may have. Typically just a regular table saw cut will adhere clear/bubble free as the solvent melts the material a bit. Being so thick the seams might come out better running a router with flush trim bit over it after the saw cut.
 

bluehand

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No need to polish it. You might want to experiment a bit here also tho with any extra material u may have. Typically just a regular table saw cut will adhere clear/bubble free as the solvent melts the material a bit. Being so thick the seams might come out better running a router with flush trim bit over it after the saw cut.
After experimenting a bit I was confident enough to try my first rod. Not perfect by any means but I think I am happy enough with it.

IMG_20240721_133705924.jpg

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wednesday13

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After experimenting a bit I was confident enough to try my first rod. Not perfect by any means but I think I am happy enough with it.

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💀🤘 nice work man! Very quick to dive right in also, i like it lol… only way to learn is by doing it. U were smart to flip the tank like u did also, that really worked to ur advantage. Thats easily double the original seam. If theres any gaps between the rod u can use #16 to fill them in so water does not get behind the rod.
 

bluehand

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What do you use as an applicator for the #40? I would assume that the 20 gauge that I used for the #4 would not be large enough? I have not been able to find any clear methods with the research I have done as most everything that I have read assumes that you are joining two separate pieces together.
 

wednesday13

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What do you use as an applicator for the #40? I would assume that the 20 gauge that I used for the #4 would not be large enough? I have not been able to find any clear methods with the research I have done as most everything that I have read assumes that you are joining two separate pieces together.
#40 is like syrup… its a 2 part also, 5:100 ratio i believe. You mix for 5 minutes then have around 10-15min working time depending on the pot size/weather before it starts heating up and curing. You can pour it right out of the mixing cup. Use large syringes with the tips cut to ur need or plastic squeeze type bottles with a tip. You can even pack blank Caulk tubes with it and shoot/inject it that way. Just have to be quick about it. I used to use concession type ketchup/mustard bottles from the dollar store alot. I mainly poured it from the cup right onto seams with the tanks tilted to 45 degrees to puddle the glue in place. Its self leveling to an extent. You can’t really work with it vertically, most will all just run back down so flipping the tank around like u already did is key for 40 work.

when using syringes, bottles… etc… be careful when the glue starts to go off/cure. It heats up quite a bit. More so in larger batches. Make sure u have good ventilation and wear a respirator. At the least, tying a bandana around ur face helps for the fumes. I used to use a vibrating table also to get bubbles out of the mixes. Degassing is the proper way but i didnt have a vac pot yrs ago.
you can use measuring cups/spoons to measure out the glue or a digital scale.

if u look in the DIY section here, one of my threads “weld on 40 and 42” is a sticky right at the top. Covered most of the basics here for ya tho 💀🤙
 
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wednesday13

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And you were not kidding about the fumes WOW!
Haha yeaaah… i saw u were workin in a garage so thats a huge plus. I poured half a gallon one time in winter, indoors and my wife almost left me for good 😂😂😂… forgot to mention that taking a tylenol before pouring alot helps also. Even with. Good respirator and ventilation theres no escaping it when ur inside the tank.
Nicely done again tho 💀💪.. if thats the front it looks like it came out pretty clean for sure.
 
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