794 gallon ply tank build

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greenterra

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MFK Member
A quick break down of costs so far.:)

Ply sheets @ $69 ea (Got these for a steal:naughty:) = $276
Screws were free:)
Builders bog = $39
30m x 1m of woven roving mat = $260
12L Boat Cote Epoxy = $209.09
Black epoxy pigment = $12.73
Epoxy solvent for clean up = $20

Total = $816.82 + glass panel, silicon and acrylic lids.

Not bad considering an 96"x30"x30" here will cost me $1200 minimum tank only and only half the size.:)
 

Ramesh

Gambusia
MFK Member
Jul 25, 2008
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Great job so far mate, is the fiber glassing of the ply hard to do?
Could you give give me a very quick break down of the process?
Is it as simple as laying down the matting and coating with epoxy and repeating until you achieve the disired thickness?
I am in the dark on this method of water proofing.
 

greenterra

Blue Tier VIP
MFK Member
Ramesh;3293992; said:
Great job so far mate, is the fiber glassing of the ply hard to do?
Could you give give me a very quick break down of the process?
Is it as simple as laying down the matting and coating with epoxy and repeating until you achieve the desired thickness?
I am in the dark on this method of water proofing.
It is pretty easy. Can be messy but easy none the less. First thing is to have all your matting cut up and ready for all the areas to be glassed. I also make sure the epoxy both part A & B are pre warmed to make it easier to work with. Working pot life will vary depending on what resin you have. Boat Cote gives me around 45 minutes to work with.

After mixing the correct amount for what I am going to do, I first roll a coat over the ply before applying the matting. This is called the wet method. I let that sit for 10mins so it gets a soak into the ply and lets trapped air escape. Next is to lay out the matting. It will stick pretty good to the previously wet ply, even on a vertical side. I use a 4" brush to apply the resin to all the harder spots like in the corners and such (in a dabbing motion) and a paint roller for the main flat part. Wet it out until the matting becomes transparent. Repeat process if applying more than 1 layer of matting at once. Next is the most crucial part. Something that some forget to do unfortunately.

Get yourself one of these.
Alum_roller_H_P.jpg
A roller is needed to expel any air hidden under or within the matting itself. This makes the the matting stronger and seals the job better. It is quite easy. Start from one end working the air out by rolling it back and forth over the matting. Make sure you have no air bubbles as this could lead to problems down the line. Once cured, sand any edges that will be overlapped by the next section to make sure it adheres correctly and go again. Easy as that. Oh , remember to thoroughly wash out your rollers and brushes etc with acetone. :)
 

greenterra

Blue Tier VIP
MFK Member
Just a few pics of this beast in the sanding down process to make sure each epoxy topcoat adheres correctly. I don't want any delamination between coats. I still have to flip it over and fiberglass the bottom yet. Hopefully that will happen this weekend.

IMG_3347.JPG

IMG_3348.JPG

IMG_3350.JPG
 
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