? about the diy overflow

[bitteraspects]

Confession: I don't have the check valve installed... I don't even know where to get one. Where would I find such a thing?

other note: Probly should install the ball valve as well.. there goes another couple o days, assuming I can get somebody to jump my car.. went outside today to start it up and not even a click...

just about any LFS should have them. you can even get them at walmart. this is a crucial part to maintaining operation. get one and install it ASAP

If you don't have the checkvalve, you can submerge the whole overflow in your tank and rotate it to get the air out. Then put pvc caps (not glued) temporarily on the overflow hole and vent hole and use your hand or somehow cap the tee that goes to your sump. Position your assembly on the back of the tank, attach to your sump, remove the caps and you should be good to go if you got all the air out. I've built 2 of these in the last few days and that worked for me.

even if you get all the air out that way (though i doubt it would work) it does nothing for cavitation. during operation air will make its way into the pipe, and build up over time. if you have no means of removing it, this will slow the flow of your intake and cause your tank to spill over onto the floor.
you too, need to get check valves on your overflows ASAP. it might seem ok for a few days, but soon enough you will have a big mess on your hands.

 

[chellos]

hi, need some answers. is it possible to have a sump of 5 gal for a 10 gal tank? im planning to use this diy overflow. also, is it ok to use 1/2" pvc? sorry for the noob questions.. tnx

 

[fishyreview]

Bitteraspects- good point. I think I'll order me a bunch of check valves on my next big parts order. I have some clear overflows (not of this type) and I haven't seen any air in them so far. I really think that small amounts of air should get carried away or dissolve back into the water. Your flow rate would matter here. If the rate is fairly high, I would think I would get away with no check valve. But then again I have a concrete floor and I seem to make some sort of mess every single day, but almost never because of my overflows or sump, unless it is a tank just added to the system. I have a float switch, though, to protect my Lifeguard 14000 pump from running dry.

As for using a sump on a 5 or 10 gallon tank, well I guess you can do anything nano. 1/2 will function with a very low flow rate. I'd say go at least 3/4 because your return will probably be 1/2 and your drains should be bigger than your returns. On a tank that small, why not just use a penguin 100b bio wheel filter? Or are you hooking up more tanks than that?

 

[bitteraspects]

hi, need some answers. is it possible to have a sump of 5 gal for a 10 gal tank? im planning to use this diy overflow. also, is it ok to use 1/2" pvc? sorry for the noob questions.. tnx

yes that will be fine. a 5g sump for a 10g tank is perfect.
1/2" pvc will give you around 150gph on your overflow which is more than enough. you just have to determine the height of your stand, and get an appropriate sized pump (100gph @ 3-4')

 

[chellos]

tnx for the replies,,

@fishreview - im just setting up a sump for a ten gallon display tank. isn't 3/4 too much for the overflow since its sump is only 10 gal? if that's the case what rate of return pump would i need?

@bitteraspects - the height of the stand is approximately 2.5feet.. is a 100gph enough already? also,, for the return pump shoul i use a 1/2" pvc or a hose used in garden will do?? another thing,, sorry for asking too much.. is it alright if i use this diagram?? http://www.aquahobby.com/board/viewtopic.php?t=54290 thanks in advance. more power.

 

[fishyreview]

I think that all the discussions of the overflow possibly gurgling would make me want to go up to 3/4. However, 1/2 is cheap enough so it wouldn't cost much to try it, especially if you are concerned about size. Your flow rate will be limited by how much goes into the tank, so don't worry that too much would go down the overflow. I bet at some point as you make the pipe size bigger there isn't enough flow and you would be more likely to get air where you don't want it.

I'd definitely use a flexible hose from the overflow to either a main drain pipe or directly to the sump, depending on your application. I buy a Tee where the one hole is threaded then thread in a nipple adapter. The 1 1/4" nipple fits nicely into 1 1/4" sump pump discharge hose, which is a black ribbed inexpensive hose.

I'll also amend my earlier statement about how to prime these things. You only have to submerge them and rotate them until all the air gets out. Then lift it straight up and lower it into a tank. Then you get drenched in water because you forget to hook up the drain line. There's no other need to cap the holes unless you want to skip the part where your shoes get filled with water.

 

[Austinchap]

all these are about overflows for sumps and return... how could i do a drip system with an over flow to a sump under the tank and back to the tank and do the drain out the window? or would i just have to do two over flows with one higher for the drain out the window.

 

[bitteraspects]

you dont need a drain out the window.

 

[Austinchap]

if i have a drip system i would :s or my sump would slowly overfill right?
this is what im looking to do but i dont know how to do the drain out the window...
i think i have to do one or the other. i can do a drip with the over flow out the window and get a canister filter or i can just do the overflow with the sump....

 

[Austinchap]

or this.. is there a mixture lol the only thing i can think is to an over sized overflow for the sump and and out the window lol or drill a whole which is not an option