Stainless Beam? Blah! I'm using a 2"x8" with a 2"x4" bolted through and 4 2"x4" struts bolted through and tied into the back wall with all-thread. All wood coated in drylok.BOTR;652177; said:Tagging along.
I used the Sani-Tread system for my 430g Plywood tank. Pretty pleased, but be sure to use a durable roller when aplicating. This stuff can tear normal rollers up leaving bit and pieces in the finish.
You have me measuring locations in my basement for a block tank now as well. Thinking 2600g's. Any hints on where to find a 316 stainless beam for the top of the front of the tank?
Chris
BOTR;652177; said:Tagging along.
I used the Sani-Tread system for my 430g Plywood tank. Pretty pleased, but be sure to use a durable roller when aplicating. This stuff can tear normal rollers up leaving bit and pieces in the finish.
You have me measuring locations in my basement for a block tank now as well. Thinking 2600g's. Any hints on where to find a 316 stainless beam for the top of the front of the tank?
Chris
BOTR;652311; said:Ok thats a sweet idea.
You burned holes in the angle for the rebar right? And then just filled the gap in the back with mortar. This is a perfect idea. Thanks for the input!
Chris
I like your tank. One of the reasons I went concrete. Since I'm using glass, I was a little concerned about any imperfections in the steel, and the more rigid glass to steel connection. Yes, it's stronger, but IMO, I don't want to risk the glass cracking. I think you had that problem on the 2500 right? Plus, this tank is 1/2 the 2500 and 1/5th the 5000. I'm also only filling the tank to 8" below the top of the glass. I guess only time will tell whether I'm right or notjohnptc;654088; said:yes it tied the whole front of the tank together........i used angle around the whole opneing both for strength and a good seat for the plastic to seal to.........