In my opinion, 5 of mounting flange for glazing an aquarium window is excessive; 2 is adequate and 3 is more than adequate. For a window 3 feet by 7 feet I would purchase at least 30 tubes of GE Silicone II XST, the standard size for calking guns, and return any unused. Make your bead at least one inch high on both surfaces and be sure they will align when pressed together. Be careful to avoid any gaps in the Silicone, once the two surfaces have been pressed together, it is very difficult to correct any mistakes. The silicone cures slowly. According to MonsterFishKeeper PTCJOHN the cure rate is about 1/8 of an inch per 24 hours. If you have a ¾ thick gasket then you will need at least 6 days of cure time. Silicone cure time is not temperature dependent; it is reliant upon moisture in the air. Some years ago, I was in a rush to see my fish in their new aquarium and did not allow the Silicone to cure properly. I had water gushing out around the window, which only developed when the aquarium was nearly full. UGGGgg!
Three-foot tall aquarium window glass can be set against the cement blocks as long as the blocks are filled with concrete and strengthened with rebar. The blocks should also be anchored in the ground or a concrete slab so they will not move under water pressure. If the blocks are not in a straight line then a wood frame might be appropriate however, the wood frame will not add support strength unless it is a 4 by 6 or larger beam. Just Silicone the wood frame to the cement blocks to make a straight-line resting surface for the glass. Slap the Silicon heavy in all contact areas. Think about how it will all come together before starting; plan every step with a time estimate.
I use short ½ lengths of 5/16 or 3/8 outside diameter air tubing as shim material to keep the glass from squeezing out most of the Silicone II over time. The tubing is pressed into the Silicone after the calking has been applied to both surfaces just before pressing them together. I space them about 6 apart.