Cinder block stand

[00kevin]

I've used several cinder block stands.

3) do not stack cinder blocks more than 3 high.

That's a great idea about the 2x4's glued to the plywood. I'll revise my stand plans to include that now. It'll make the setup easier when I have to lift the 700+lb tank and move onto the stand

On that note, why not more than 3 high? I was planning on 4 high, as I have to fit a 125 underneath

thanks

 

[nzafi]

That's a great idea about the 2x4's glued to the plywood. I'll revise my stand plans to include that now. It'll make the setup easier when I have to lift the 700+lb tank and move onto the stand

On that note, why not more than 3 high? I was planning on 4 high, as I have to fit a 125 underneath

thanks

I dont know what your budget is, but if you are in north jersey (which it seems like you are), I highly recommend you talk to jsodwi about him building you a steel stand. Done them for multiple MFK members, high quality work (do a search and you will find many pics), and very well priced. I will be using him for my big tank in the near future.

 

[RD.]

The blocks are strongest for supporting loads with the hollow spaces vertical. Not horizontal.

+1

I have seen a LOT of cinder block stands over the years where the structural integrity was weakened by incorrect cinder set up. Also, no need to have the center supported if your tank has a plastic brace on the bottom. Seems sketchy to look at, but most aquarium stands are designed to only support the 4 corners. Oceanic, All-Glass, Aqueon, etc. But the Doc's suggestion is a good one too.

 

[xraycer]

This is my 90gal ghetto tank, I'd set up over 3yrs ago, and still rock solid.
Back in early 2000, I had a tank on a cinder block stand, 6 high, but it was only a 40gal.

 

[00kevin]

+1
Also, no need to have the center supported if your tank has a plastic brace on the bottom. Seems sketchy to look at, but most aquarium stands are designed to only support the 4 corners. Oceanic, All-Glass, Aqueon, etc. But the Doc's suggestion is a good one too.

My tank is custom made, so there's no brace on the bottom. Although there is a piece of stock to reinforce the corner. Does this mean I should have support for the entire perimeter?

 

[RD.]

Kevin - I would. I would also add a sheet of foam over the sheet of plywood. It's always best to check with manufacturers when/if possible, most will void any type of warranty if you don't follow their recommendations.

 

[Leebtattoos]

I’m late to the party but I’ve used cinder blocks on several tanks over the years. Ranging from 75-200. All used 1/2 or 3/4 plywood on top of the blocks.

The foam is sometimes a pain, but it’s a good idea for sure because leveling blocks is not super easy so it gives you a little buffer. Plus manufacturer warranties if

 

[RD.]

If the tank has plastic trim, most manufacturers will void warranty if one uses foam. It does not act as a level if the tank has plastic trim. Just so that's clear, foam should only be used when the tank is custom made, with a flat rimless bottom.

 

[RD.]

From several years ago ...........

https://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/...ne-underneath-their-tank.445458/#post-5429876

The pics are no longer there, but I still have them on my hard drive somewhere and will add them to this thread when I am back on my home PC.

The info is still as valid now, as it was then.

 

[RD.]

Found the pics ..........