DIY FX5 Spraybar

[Sub-Mariner]

Yes I am able to get the feces off the sand most of the time with just the forward facing holes. The water flow rolls down the front of the tank, across the sand, lifting the debri with it, and up the back and rolls it in a circular motion in the water column until it is collected by the filter intake. However, occassionally after my fish mound up the sand I get low spots where the debri will settle, I just level out the sand again and those problem areas disappear again until my fish mound the sand up again. The debri will be removed from the sand and tumble in the water column until picked up by the intake, this can take quite a while to happen so I wanted to speed up the process so I use a 405 positioned in the opposite corner of the FX5 intake with the output at a 45 degree angle to the side and back panels spraying towards the center/opposite end for overkill filtration and water movement to accomplish this. You may be able to drill a couple holes in the end cap to accomplish the same thing.

Ok I gotcha!

I just installed my FX last night. I also have a Eheim 2217 with Eheims install kit (spraybar / intake). The spraybar has 3 sections that are adjustable so I just have to find the right way to set that up to work with the FX.

Thanks for the clarification!!

 

[Kevccoy]

I did mine and just let the factory hose into the water and took off the dual output that came with it, and a CPVC 90 fit rit into it, then used a 45 to get it back to wall and walla, no re piping to the filter or anything, works like a champ

 

[WickedJester]

I think this will be something I do for the FX5 on my 180.

 

[Mastiffman]

Flow reduction is by all means not the only reason to have one. The main benefit of a spray bar is to distribute the flow evenly over a larger area to avoid dead spots where junk might settle (flow reduction is a side effect of this). That was my main objective with the spraybar on my FX5. To spread the flow out for more efficient filtering, and it was a trial and error to get the wholes sized right to avoid mounding of my sand.

Also, If aiemd properly, you can use the spray to cause turbulance on the water surface so that you don't have to use an air stone at all...

Excellent DIY posting! Great job!

You could always get a couple of suction cup heater holders to mount the spray bar with. They're dirt cheap.
Looks great!

Great idea here! Thanks!

What would the point have been to purchase such a large filter if I was going to throttle its performance/output back with the aqua stop valves?

It would have been pointless to spend the money if I were to choke the flow with the valves, I should have just bought a smaller filter if I was going to go about it that way. By building the spraybar I can still experience the full filtering potential of the filter without punishing my fish with the flow from the stock output nozzles. Which is a WIN/WIN!

Technically, a bit slower waterflow helps the BB to filter to it's amx potential... how slow is the key....

I think this will be something I do for the FX5 on my 180.

I'm on the same page with you here... Sicks because I picked up a used FX5 off of ebay for $58 (+$18 for shipping) and ordered a output nozzle being that it was missing it, the rubber hose connector and a the tank brackets, before seeing this thread... It was only about $5-$6, so not a terrible waste of coin....

 

[Sub-Mariner]

I just got my spray bar parts (90 degree elbows - 3/4" piping - 1 90 degree threaded / slip elbow - threaded cap to cap off the end). Wish I couldve found black but all they had was dark gray so that will work. Im about to start making it and I came across a spray bar with a "T" in the middle.

Im going to make a 36" spray bar....Is there any advantage of making the spray bar with a "T" in the middle as opposed to making the water come in from one side only like the OP is doing?

 

[Sub-Mariner]

Heres mine The spray bar itself (not including the end elbows) is 36". The holes are 1/8" spaced an 1" apart.

I'll test it out this weekend.

 

[Jgray152]

Just to throw this out there...

According to some math(if I did it right), you would need roughly 60 1/8" holes to equal the equivalent of a 1" ID outlet. Looks like you have 27 holes? That would equal a hole about 3/8" ID. You might have some pressure and lots of reduced flow.

Now if you made 1/4" holes, you would only need 16... Somehow I think my math might be a bit off but bigger is better

 

[Sub-Mariner]

Just to throw this out there...

According to some math(if I did it right), you would need roughly 60 1/8" holes to equal the equivalent of a 1" ID outlet. Looks like you have 27 holes? That would equal a hole about 3/8" ID. You might have some pressure and lots of reduced flow.

Now if you made 1/4" holes, you would only need 16... Somehow I think my math might be a bit off but bigger is better

I didn't want to go to big before testing it out first. I can always enlarge the holes but can't make them smaller once they're drilled out.

And there's 26 holes, 13 on each side.

 

[08trdoffroad]

Also, If aiemd properly, you can use the spray to cause turbulance on the water surface so that you don't have to use an air stone at all...

Technically, a bit slower waterflow helps the BB to filter to it's amx potential... how slow is the key....

Mine is aimed just slightly up so it gently stirs the surface to help oxiginate the water.

I just got my spray bar parts (90 degree elbows - 3/4" piping - 1 90 degree threaded / slip elbow - threaded cap to cap off the end). Wish I couldve found black but all they had was dark gray so that will work. Im about to start making it and I came across a spray bar with a "T" in the middle.

Im going to make a 36" spray bar....Is there any advantage of making the spray bar with a "T" in the middle as opposed to making the water come in from one side only like the OP is doing?

The one thing that I have noticed with just feeding mine from a far end is that the streams coming out on the opposite end seem to be a bit stronger than the other. If you were to put a "T" in it, it may make the flow out of all the holes more even.

I didn't want to go to big before testing it out first. I can always enlarge the holes but can't make them smaller once they're drilled out.

And there's 26 holes, 13 on each side.

Drilling smaller holes to begin with the way to go anyway, if you try to drill too large of a hole to begin with the PVC will chunk out horribly. I drilled all my holes at around 1/8" or so before enlarging them to what they are currently.

 

[BooshWacka]

great info thanks!