diy overflow

[nolapete]

The two 90s are going to cut down your flow. Is it possible to replumb from the drop to the connection to your sump with flexible pool hose? That should cut down on the restriction.

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Question for those who have built these. How much taller is your stand-pipe than the top of the U that goes over the side of the tank?

I'm still playing with my ball valve idea, but ran into an issue with the standpipe height.

The idea is to close the ball valve, fill the standpipe and drain pipe with water, then quickly open the ball valve. My theory is that the rush of water evacuating the standpipe will pull the air pocket down enough for flow to start.

With the standpipe the height that it currently is (even with the top of the U) it comes close to overflowing while I'm pouring water in the intake side. It may just be a sequence of filling order problem on my part. I probably need to fill the intake first then the standpipe.

Going to try that and see what happens. I think it will fail, but also think that if I make the standpipe taller that the idea will work.

Results:
Changed the order of filling and it made no difference. Hurm.

 

[Rhykiru]

Ok, i just read through this whole topic. Seriously.

Im gonna use 1'' tubes to make an overflow for my 75 gallon turtle tank. Gonna use a 10 gallon tank as the sump and buy one of those plastic bins that have stacked and you can pull it out as the place for the media. The pump i will be using is the quiet one 1200 and with my tank height, it will run about 200 gph. Dont worry, i will have another filter in my turltle tank (xp3) i just want this one to help with the ammonia a turtle can produce lol.

to get the air out of the the top u-turn pipe, i will follow Vinno's idea (post #462) i will put a checkvalve there and run an airhose to my powerhead and there you go self prime. But i think the way to do this, as Chompers said in one of his post, is to pour water down the vent pipe into the u-pipe before the tee soo that that fills up and so the powerhead will pull out all the air in the tube and not from the sump xD continious suction ftw.

anyways, since i will keep this in my room. I will probably add a ball valve after the tee to help reduce the gurgling noise. But the problem is, i googled ball valve and i saw like two diff kinds, heres one :

the other one actually has a ball in it (i think) and only has this lever thingie, which one should i use?

also, i have just a question about how the filter works. In Chompers post #448. quoted here manually since i dont know how to quote xD:

"The vent breaks the syphon from the tube going down to the filter. When the water level inside the intake tube drops to the level of the tee, the flow stops. The two loops trap water in them to prevent air from entering the inverted loop."

but when say after the power turns on, how does the siphon restart? Im sorry if it is already stated in here and i just read it all to fast .-.

one more question, on the outlet tube, i plan to make it go all the way up and then make a "U" into the tank and then going straight down to the bottom of the tank, make a 90 degree turn, and then make a spray bar there so that the clean water pushes along the know bottom of the tank. But i am scared if the pump stops, it will go backwards and drain the whole 75 gallons into the 10 gallon D:

some people say to drill a hole on the outtake pipe but i dont really get how that works, any ideas?

i think there is like a huge checkvalve for pvc pipes, Like you can blow in one side but can suck back out the same side. But are there any other alternatives?

thank you very much

 

[rallysman]

The two 90s are going to cut down your flow. Is it possible to replumb from the drop to the connection to your sump with flexible pool hose? That should cut down on the restriction.

The fittings that you'll have to use to connect the 1" hose will restrict as much flow as the 90s (IMO) since you'll have to make the opening on the inside a bit smaller to slide the hose over. Why not just use a 180degree PVC fitting?

 

[nolapete]

The fittings that you'll have to use to connect the 1" hose will restrict as much flow as the 90s (IMO) since you'll have to make the opening on the inside a bit smaller to slide the hose over. Why not just use a 180degree PVC fitting?

Flexible pool hose fits on the outside of 1" pvc pipe. I've used it for many years for "soft" connections when pvc fittings won't go the direction I need.

 

[Danh]

Ok. I've made them.

 

[rallysman]

Flexible pool hose fits on the outside of 1" pvc pipe. I've used it for many years for "soft" connections when pvc fittings won't go the direction I need.

ah, I thought you were talking about the hose that would fit on a 1" barb.
As long as you can keep it completely air tight, it will be fine.

It would also make it more difficult to remove the air.

 

[nolapete]

Why would you need to remove the air from the flexible hose? It's after the overflow connected to the pvc.

 

[sma]

is it a good idea to have two 1" overflow connected to each that forms a T and turns into a 1.25" pipe.

 

[Rhykiru]

can anyone help me D:

also, i have one more question, My dad wants to know how the water that overflows can be equal to the water getting pumped up.

I believe you guys when you say that it just works that way, but i need an actual explanation so i can convince him to let me buy the stuff lol.

thanks

 

[nolapete]

Each size of pipe is rated at a certain gallons per hour. I think that 1" is 600, but not sure. There's probably some chart available that shows it. You do have to take into account that every fitting and direction change lessens the flow rate.