I might suggest dual 1" overflow good for ~1200 GPH. I don't know for sure but I know I can get away with 1" for my 75 but am moving up to 1 1/4" for the extra flow, also make sure you keep the Tee as low as possible.arkmann;1512260; said:
Craig
diy overflow
- Thread starter eh1421
- Start date
Craig
![]v[onster Loaches](/forums/data/avatars/s/24/24510.jpg?1431689616){kind=avatar}
Its the flow of the pump you need to match up plumbing for, not the size of the tank. One persons 55g can have several times the flow of another persons 110. Just depends.
I think someone should do some testing and make an accurate flow chart, not only for the size piping but also the height (I assume there would be a difference between a 1" overflow for a 12" tall tank versus one built for a 30" tank but dont know for sure). If I am not mistaken these style overflows will have a much less rating compared to a simple gravity drain like in a drilled tank, so dont necessarily use those numbers.
If I had some more time I'd make a flow chart. If no ones done it by spring/summer and I get some free time and my garage gets cleaned up I will do some testing with various size pipes and check different height overflows as well. Or if this is already done perhaps someone could paste a link.
I think someone should do some testing and make an accurate flow chart, not only for the size piping but also the height (I assume there would be a difference between a 1" overflow for a 12" tall tank versus one built for a 30" tank but dont know for sure). If I am not mistaken these style overflows will have a much less rating compared to a simple gravity drain like in a drilled tank, so dont necessarily use those numbers.
If I had some more time I'd make a flow chart. If no ones done it by spring/summer and I get some free time and my garage gets cleaned up I will do some testing with various size pipes and check different height overflows as well. Or if this is already done perhaps someone could paste a link.
Here is a pic of my sub-substrate inside loop design - very inconspicuous - even with the backboard removed from the tank...
Making sure the check valve was properly airtight was the key to noise reduction as was putting some poly-wool in the standpipe.
Restarts fine and does not overflow in either direction.
Making sure the check valve was properly airtight was the key to noise reduction as was putting some poly-wool in the standpipe.
Restarts fine and does not overflow in either direction.
anyone try adding one of these the check valves?
http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_ViewItem.aspx?idproduct=OE1137
http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_ViewItem.aspx?idproduct=OE1137
I haven't seen one picture of the intake from the bottom of the tank. I seen only this thread from Volenti saying he figured it out but not one pic showed up in his response. Can this be done and does anyone have any pictures of it? If so please Pm me the info. I would highly appreciate it.Volenti;855422; said:I've found a simple way to make a diy overflow suck from the bottom the tank and still mantain full function (won't break syphon, won't empty tank)
(insert crappy mspaint pic)
It's basically a peice of larger pipe(in red), open at the top and bottom that's placed over the last section of the overflow in the tank, the pipe must extend above the water line for this to work.
I've added this modification to my own overflow, though since my overflow is set up slightly differently the mod is different as well, the same principle applies though.
My old setup;
side view of old overflow;
tank dry ready for mod;
"pipe" and screen siliconed into place;
operational;
From reading 67pg's I think the Tee being placed higher in the return had something to do with the prevention of water continuing back to the sump? Am I correct? And if so is the conclusion that the tee will need to be even with the water line in the top of the tank since that is where the water will return to the sump?
Intake from the bottom, you mean something like what is posted here: http://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1384430&postcount=12ScullCraca;1560412; said:
In that case there is no in-tank overflow so the tee must be elevated on the back to the water level, as it will be a true siphon between the tank up to the tee. I think the only issue with that style is possibly less maximum flow? I dont really know thats just a guess. And also it might loose its prime if the tank water fell below the intake? probably not a problem if the intake is near the bottom.
Or I suppose you might make a durso and with the submerged intake you could just extend it further downward with a length of pipe? Just an idea.
Thanks ML. I have looked at that same configuration 100 times and NOT until after reading 67pgs and you pointing that out to me did I put two and two together until right now. I think I am thinking to much anyone else have that problem?]v[onster Loaches;1560588; said:
Originally Posted by Volenti 
I've found a simple way to make a diy overflow suck from the bottom the tank and still mantain full function (won't break syphon, won't empty tank)
(insert crappy mspaint pic)
It's basically a peice of larger pipe(in red), open at the top and bottom that's placed over the last section of the overflow in the tank, the pipe must extend above the water line for this to work.
I've added this modification to my own overflow, though since my overflow is set up slightly differently the mod is different as well, the same principle applies though.
My old setup;
side view of old overflow;
tank dry ready for mod;
"pipe" and screen siliconed into place;
operational;
Does anyone have the pictures of volenti's idea? I have my tank ready...just need to view the pictures one last time so i can start building the plumbing. Thanks!
I've found a simple way to make a diy overflow suck from the bottom the tank and still mantain full function (won't break syphon, won't empty tank)
(insert crappy mspaint pic)
It's basically a peice of larger pipe(in red), open at the top and bottom that's placed over the last section of the overflow in the tank, the pipe must extend above the water line for this to work.
I've added this modification to my own overflow, though since my overflow is set up slightly differently the mod is different as well, the same principle applies though.
My old setup;
side view of old overflow;
tank dry ready for mod;
"pipe" and screen siliconed into place;
operational;
Does anyone have the pictures of volenti's idea? I have my tank ready...just need to view the pictures one last time so i can start building the plumbing. Thanks!
Hey everybody,
This is my first post on this forum, and it is a great forum!
I just read through this entire thread (yes, all 64 freakin pages, lol) It twas quite informational and educational.
I believe I have the understanding of the functionality of the overflow, just want to ask a couple of questions before I do.
1) A couple of pages back a reply stated that the check air valve doesnt work well with the venturi. What should be used in place? I saw in one post that a person had just used an airline t fitting. Is this acceptable or is there something better to use?
2) The pump I plan on using for the venturi is a Maxi-jet 1200. Ill have it in the tank (obviously) to help circulate waste to the overflows, but also to use the venturi feature. With having 2 overflows on the tank, could I just use the one pump with the venturi feature to use on both overflows? In otherwords, run an airline from each check valve (or whatever is being used) into an airline T, and then run one length of tubing to the maxi jet's venturi? Is the venturi strong enough for this? I've never used that feature, so that is why I ask.
3) Both the inner and outer U can either be at the same height, or the inner one must be lower. Either situation works, correct?
Other than that, it seems pretty easy.
Thanks in advance!
This is my first post on this forum, and it is a great forum!
I just read through this entire thread (yes, all 64 freakin pages, lol) It twas quite informational and educational.
I believe I have the understanding of the functionality of the overflow, just want to ask a couple of questions before I do.
1) A couple of pages back a reply stated that the check air valve doesnt work well with the venturi. What should be used in place? I saw in one post that a person had just used an airline t fitting. Is this acceptable or is there something better to use?
2) The pump I plan on using for the venturi is a Maxi-jet 1200. Ill have it in the tank (obviously) to help circulate waste to the overflows, but also to use the venturi feature. With having 2 overflows on the tank, could I just use the one pump with the venturi feature to use on both overflows? In otherwords, run an airline from each check valve (or whatever is being used) into an airline T, and then run one length of tubing to the maxi jet's venturi? Is the venturi strong enough for this? I've never used that feature, so that is why I ask.
3) Both the inner and outer U can either be at the same height, or the inner one must be lower. Either situation works, correct?
Other than that, it seems pretty easy.
Thanks in advance!
