Thanks Steve. I think this way was simpler though. I wish I would have used a tank that I could drill.repair;860467; said:
ewurm;860482; said:It's so simple even a wurm could do it. So plug B goes into slot A and pipe C goes into tank M and I put the toaster in Tank Y and plug it in and....ahh forget it, I am not good at DIY. I like LSEDI. Let someone else do it.
LOL! All of my projects are DIY. Someone does the work, and I write the check myself!rallysman;860487; said:
Thanks for the link. I had been looking for something better than standard float switches (ball on cord type).repair;860467; said:
I found this link way too late, but it gets my two thumbs up toorallysman;859943; said:...I don't want to install it until it gets MFKs blessing. ...
Not exactly...rallysman;860028; said:It will be ok, at the highest level the sump will be able to hold all of the water that would continue to flow in the case of a power failure. (I think that's what you're asking lol)
I set it up on a drip system, I'm dripping 1gph and when the level gets high enough in the sump, the swittch will kick a pump on and it will evacuate part of it. My statement about the media is that the water level will get 1" above it's lowest level (at the waters highest point before the small pump kicks in). The main pumps are for the filtration system.Dr Joe;860899; said:Drip System Float Switch.
Is there any reason this wont work?
It is measured to turn a drain pump on when the water reaches ~8" above the main pumps, and shut it off when the water level gets ~2" above the main pumps. The bio media will only have an inch submersed at max 1". I don't want to install it until it gets MFKs blessing.
Not exactly...
Ok, I understand what your doing, just not why .
This is F/W right?
Are you looking for a surge current? (since your dumping 15g at a time rather than a constant flow)
What are the main pumps for?
And I don't get the bio-media statement.
Feeling really dense right now...sorry to bother.
Dr Joe
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