So long as the screw heads didn't pop off and the ply didn't split you should be fine. Predrilling is a pita, but can be useful for getting screw heads below the surface. Don't worry so much and get er filled!joey020283;3043381; said:
First plwood tank build started..... with pics
- Thread starter joey02
- Start date
Necro is right, pre-drilling is just a precaution against splitting your wood and it helps to give you a more finished look. It also helps you get straighter holes than simply putting screws in.
Wood glue imho is the best product you can use for joints.. so you are fine there.
Wood glue imho is the best product you can use for joints.. so you are fine there.
just a few Questions what grade and type of plywood did you use? when you have it finished can you do a cost breakdown? this looks like it is gonna be a great easy DIY tank on the cheap. I'm thinking I may be able to keep a fish I got permanentlly if I can build it this way. if I have my estimating right you should be under $1 a gallon right?
It never works out that way.greengiant;3044130; said:
Just guesstimates for an average...
2 sheets of a/c or a grabe plywood 55-90 each.
Screws, 10-15 dollars
Glue, 3 bucks,
glass 125 - extreme depending on the glass thickness and clarity
Silicone 6-12 bucks for this build..
Sealant 30+ for this build
So far this doesn't accounr for a hood, lights, plumbing, filtration, etc.. DIY tanks are never as cheap as people think they are going to be when they begin. A good rule of thumb is to figure out a budget for your tank then double it.
DIY tanks do not become truly cost effective till you start going much larger most of the time. Glass, lighing, and waterproofing always seem to be the big cost factors, however I have also found that plumbing hardware is not cheap either.
Yes everyone generally underestimates the cost of materials...aside from the pleasure of putting our ideas through the paces which is what I think diy is all about, costs can still be prohibitive for some. I'm fortunate to have a pile of old plumbing, wood, glass, screws ect. i can draw from which helps alot. I'm curious regarding cutting down on the plywood costs, which seem to be a substantial consideration. The 3/4 in and above stuff is usually quite expensive so I'm considering just bonding thinner sheets together with construction adhesive. I've seen 1/2 ply for $15, any thoughts?
Construction adhesive is very strong stuff, although very thick. It might not be easy to spread a uniform layer over the ply. I would be more inclined to think that contact adhesive, applied in several coats, with the last coat being the tack coat that conects the two would be more effective. However, this requires lots of pressure, not sure if that would be possible in a home environment. Regular wood glue would work too, as would gorilla glue and epoxy. I think you would find it easier and more cost effective to use lighter ply with an external framing.
It doesnt turn brown under water. its the opposite. it goes on brown and drys black. It has already been cleard for potable water in austrailia. i also read that it can self heal, which i found interesting as well.Grog;3043706; said:
basslover34;3043801; said:Not to sound stalker ish... but I'm watching
thanks... i`ll get water in it asap!necrocanis;3043813; said:So long as the screw heads didn't pop off and the ply didn't split you should be fine. Predrilling is a pita, but can be useful for getting screw heads below the surface. Don't worry so much and get er filled!
It will end up more than a $1 per gallon. more like $2 a gallon. But there are alot of extra things i will be doing with it.greengiant;3044130; said:
I will do a complete cost break down when finished.... right down to the rubber gloves i ware for the rubber. i used good one suide exterior grade plywood. (A/C)
not sure if you can do thinner sheets glued together, but i had also thought of that. i dont see why not.Grog;3044385; said:
your estimates are very close. but 1/2 inch glass costs $16 a square foot. plus tax comes to $18.08 a square foot. plus it has to be specialy ordered. i was going to do 10mm but i think 12 will be alot safer. so around $180 for the glass.Rivermud;3044335; said:
The total build will cost around $500. but thats without filters,heaters,light. which is great considering a glass 135gal bare tank here costs $576, and a 180gal is $1130. just the tank nothing else.
Keep in mind that location can have a big impact on material costs. Typically glass will be less expensive for those in a large city with lots of local competition vs those that have only 1 glass shop within an hour's drive.
