Fleshy's 125g Build

[Kevin8888]

High temp speeds up life cycle, which will worsen infections, unless you have removed everything from the tank, hyposalinity prevents adults from being able to mate therefor no new babies. therefor cycle ends. That said, 12-16ppt is the recomended low for this treatment... which dont know about you... but would be hard on the corals... the "Safest" way is to remove fish to a QT tank hypo them for a week then leave them in QT for 6 weeks wile the ich in the MT goes through its life cycles without hosts and therefore dies. That said higher temps could shorten this process in the MT to less then 6 weeks... but I havent read anyting about it, therefore would have to test it myself... which I dont have the equiptment to do right now.

Though I also swear by cleaners as a preventative, in my monster setup I plan to have around 10 of them. I don't know how UV is natural... but thats just me lol (in nature UV light isnt strong enough to kill ich otherwise it wouldn't exist), but I would never use UV either way as it kills off my phytoplancton and zooplancton that feed my corals/clean my water.

 

[nonstophoops]

High temp speeds up life cycle, which will worsen infections, unless you have removed everything from the tank, hyposalinity prevents adults from being able to mate therefor no new babies. therefor cycle ends. That said, 12-16ppt is the recomended low for this treatment... which dont know about you... but would be hard on the corals... the "Safest" way is to remove fish to a QT tank hypo them for a week then leave them in QT for 6 weeks wile the ich in the MT goes through its life cycles without hosts and therefore dies. That said higher temps could shorten this process in the MT to less then 6 weeks... but I havent read anyting about it, therefore would have to test it myself... which I dont have the equiptment to do right now.

Though I also swear by cleaners as a preventative, in my monster setup I plan to have around 10 of them. I don't know how UV is natural... but thats just me lol (in nature UV light isnt strong enough to kill ich otherwise it wouldn't exist), but I would never use UV either way as it kills off my phytoplancton and zooplancton that feed my corals/clean my water.

High temps are a double edged sword imo. They can cause the ich to get worse in the short term by speeding up the life cycle. But, by speeding up their life cycle you are decreasing the time it takes to eradicate the parasite. The high temps do help the fish too though, because the parasite has less time to find a host before dying. It also helps the fish by increasing their slime coat. The main trouble in raising temps is the lower amount of oxygen. It is important to over oxygenate your water when raising temperatures.

One week is not enough time to eliminate the parasite via hyposalinity. I would do it for at minimum 2 weeks and then keep them in QT for at least 2 weeks after that(more if you are leaving your tank fallow).

16 ppt for salinity is also not going to kill the parasite at all. Even 12 ppt may not do the trick, it will depend on the strain.

 

[Kevin8888]

One week is not enough time to eliminate the parasite via hyposalinity. I would do it for at minimum 2 weeks and then keep them in QT for at least 2 weeks after that(more if you are leaving your tank fallow).

16 ppt for salinity is also not going to kill the parasite at all. Even 12 ppt may not do the trick, it will depend on the strain.

The life cycle of Ich on the host is 7 days MAX, then they drop off to mate on the bottom, hyposalinity of 16ppt does not kill them, it makes them unable to breed, therefor after 1 week (week and a half max to be safe) in hypo they are clear off the hoste and then die when unable to mate, with no new Ich they are good to go.
Then they stay in QT at regular salinity for the remaining time for the tank to lay "fallow". The duration of Ich in incubation is 3-28 days and 24hrs to find a hoste, so 6 weeks is over kill but better safe then sorry, though you could probably get away with 4.

IF Ich is still around after that then you don't have Ich, there are almost an infinte number of parasites that look similar but will not be irradicated this way, at that point the only way is to nuke them with copper or another harsh chemical.

 

[jworth]

not an easy decision... good luck with your QT

 

[FLESHY]

How far did you drop the Salinity in the DT? Careful there, your corals will be maleffected by the lower salinity before it will start to kill off any ich.

Salinity drop in the DT was minimal.

ive read a lot about marine ich lately. hyposaltinity can be effective in a quar tank but not recommended in your main. i still believe slightly higher temps, cleaner shrimp and a uv is the most "natural" way to fight it. im only a fan of meds in a q/tank.

i will knock on wood that i have not had an outbreak of ich yet, salt or fresh, but i do run a uv on all my tanks. i dont think its a coincidence..

I wont run UV, but I will have a cleaner shrimp in tank later this week hopefully. I usually always do but was waiting on getting another until my harlequin tusk was out of the DT. Now he is so we should be in the clear.

High temp speeds up life cycle, which will worsen infections, unless you have removed everything from the tank, hyposalinity prevents adults from being able to mate therefor no new babies. therefor cycle ends. That said, 12-16ppt is the recomended low for this treatment... which dont know about you... but would be hard on the corals... the "Safest" way is to remove fish to a QT tank hypo them for a week then leave them in QT for 6 weeks wile the ich in the MT goes through its life cycles without hosts and therefore dies. That said higher temps could shorten this process in the MT to less then 6 weeks... but I havent read anyting about it, therefore would have to test it myself... which I dont have the equiptment to do right now.

Though I also swear by cleaners as a preventative, in my monster setup I plan to have around 10 of them. I don't know how UV is natural... but thats just me lol (in nature UV light isnt strong enough to kill ich otherwise it wouldn't exist), but I would never use UV either way as it kills off my phytoplancton and zooplancton that feed my corals/clean my water.

As do I, unfortunately my Tusk harassed mine to death. You guys need to catch up with my earlier posts on the invert situation haha.

There is no hypo in DT. Water is 1.024.

Water in QT IS hypo...and I plan on doing a "gentle" copper treatment.

not an easy decision... good luck with your QT

Thanks...everything in the DT is starting to look okay again.

Carbon dosing has continued...and my strawberry shortcake acro now has green, yellow, and red on it. Super happy to have noticed a gain in color right away.

 

[Kevin8888]

I thought you had cleaners... you really need to catch that Tusker haha, its a shame though... they are nice. Ah well good luck!

 

[FLESHY]

I got him out when I did the tear down to get the three tangs into QT!

I had put a monster cleaner from my 75g in there because my angel came in with gill parasites. Luckily that got fixed before the tusk picked the cleaner to death.

 

[Kevin8888]

Im going to breed cleaners... a cuz I like them, b its not tooo hard (on the grand scheme of breeding marines) and c they sell well

 

[nonstophoops]

The life cycle of Ich on the host is 7 days MAX, then they drop off to mate on the bottom, hyposalinity of 16ppt does not kill them, it makes them unable to breed, therefor after 1 week (week and a half max to be safe) in hypo they are clear off the hoste and then die when unable to mate, with no new Ich they are good to go.
Then they stay in QT at regular salinity for the remaining time for the tank to lay "fallow". The duration of Ich in incubation is 3-28 days and 24hrs to find a hoste, so 6 weeks is over kill but better safe then sorry, though you could probably get away with 4.

IF Ich is still around after that then you don't have Ich, there are almost an infinte number of parasites that look similar but will not be irradicated this way, at that point the only way is to nuke them with copper or another harsh chemical.

Sorry I was mistaken. I was thinking SG not PPT.

 

[FLESHY]

Im going to breed cleaners... a cuz I like them, b its not tooo hard (on the grand scheme of breeding marines) and c they sell well

Cool and definitely do able...they pair easily, (as do most lysemata shrimp) and that just leaves you to raise up the very young shrimp.

I succeeded a couple times with peppermints...there was enough low flow hiding spots with food that I raised them from eggs to adults.

Cleaners would obviously be cooler though.