HMA filter for auto drip system

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
jim barry

jim barry

Goliath Tigerfish
MFK Member
Jun 21, 2006
2,979
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U.K
Anyone recomend any particular make of HMA filter for an auto drip on a 400 uk gallon tank. And how do you know when it is time to change the cartridges?
I am looking at either the R.O Man or Devotedly Discus units and i am getting confused about which one to buy.
 
Buy from devotedly, he is excelllent with top quality back up and really wants to help, he stocks the pods for replacement and you change every 12 months, he stocks all the john guest fittings and will help sort out problems....worth the extra minimal expense.....cannot recommend highly enough. Even when he made an error he sorted it out that day and at his expense then sent me some food etc and a book to compensate and I had. It even moaned at him once.
 
I'd like to know the difference between your HMA filters and our drip system filters...... This has puzzled me for a long time.
 
As Jim is in the uk he really needs uk brands and companies. I don't suppose the uk hma is any different to the ones in USA but what we do know is that a well respected discus guru (devotedly discus) has tested the hma pods to get the right mix, the hmac is the one to have as it removes chloramine....he will probably be buying these from USA or germany and importing but my point is to pay for the value he is adding and the safety of his knowledge.
 
Also Jim, look at the capillary flow restrictor as you do not need full bore drip and you must not drop the entry pressure with a simple tap as the membranes do not work without pressure. The flow restrictor is about £1 and is like keeping your thumb over the end of a hose to up the pressure but reduce the flow.

My 300 gals is at 10-20 ppm with just 30 gal drip that only runs 2 hrs per day, there is little point in flowing any more cold water in as it wastes elec to heat and wastes water. Higher stocking just needs longer flow. I use a timed solenoid on mine and have a high level switch to save any floods.
 
Just Toby said:
Also Jim, look at the capillary flow restrictor as you do not need full bore drip and you must not drop the entry pressure with a simple tap as the membranes do not work without pressure. The flow restrictor is about £1 and is like keeping your thumb over the end of a hose to up the pressure but reduce the flow.

My 300 gals is at 10-20 ppm with just 30 gal drip that only runs 2 hrs per day, there is little point in flowing any more cold water in as it wastes elec to heat and wastes water. Higher stocking just needs longer flow. I use a timed solenoid on mine and have a high level switch to save any floods.
Click to expand...
Hi Toby thanks for the help. Where can i get the flow restrictor and solenoid from?
 
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