How do I make my flowerhorns kok bigger?

ChaosBreaker

Feeder Fish
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Feb 6, 2014
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el monte
Oh my lord... You state that a secrete is to feed "Lots of raw beef", you then state you never said that. You state to feed one meal pellet and then one meal beef clearly here on post #14 on this thread.
yea oh my lord. im saying "lots of beef" doesnt mean u have to feed it "lots of beef" at once. u can divide it into days that u can feed them. yea "one meal pellet and one meal beef" but it doesnt mean everyday does it? did i say it anywhere? NO!
im just giving ideas how u should feed ur fish beef or however u want to do it.

Like 1 meal of pellets and 1 meal of beef. If ur scared of ur flowerhorn getting bloat then u can do 2 day pellets and 1 day beef. How ever u wanna do it.
doesnt mean u have to feed it everyday and i say how ever u want to do it. it also doesnt mean that u have to do the exact same ways as i said.

Before I say anything else about this subject your research say the kok is made from fat correct? That's wrong and I honestly don't even want to waste the time to explain it to you. You constantly state one thing and then act like you never posted it and state something totally different.

I'll state true facts right here and I'm not going to debate it further with you because its clear you don't understand when you are wrong. If you are able to google then find the correct answers and use some common logic and sense.
idk where u got this idea from but here is example of wat i got from my research.
http://www.flowerhorn-somethingsphishy.com/

9) The hump on a Flowerhorns head is correctly called a (KOK). Only male Flowerhorn (there are some female out there that have kok too) develop a hump. The hump is made up of fatty tissue and water.

10) To get the KOK on your Flowerhorn as big as possible, we recommend that you keep the water crystal clear, feed it high protein food, give it a large aquarium and keep it in the presence of other Flowerhorn

feeding a flowerhorn beef doesnt mean it can shorten it life. as long as u dont over feed it and keep the water clean then it wont harm ur flowerhorn. flowerhorns need high protein food to grow. flowerhorn with big kok genes already give it a big kok but feeding it beef will help.

im not trying to be mean but u might have a bad experience feeding ur flowerhorn beef doesnt mean the same thing will happen to other. as long as they know wat they are doing then they should be fine. there might be some secrets out there to grow a flowerhorn u might not know it doesnt mean its not out there.
 

justarn

Arapaima
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Lol or show it some adult content ha

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DDK

Plecostomus
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May 25, 2013
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You can't be serious. ChaosBreaker your knowledge is based on information that has NO truth what so ever. You're going to google and look up some bs web site that has little to no truth like your knowledge.

I found this site filled with wrong information from the very first "thing" where it states "Things you should know about Flowerhorn:"

You're website that has no factual and incorrect information.
http://www.flowerhorn-somethingsphishy.com/
1) FIRST AND MOST IMPORTANT, FLOWERHORN ARE EXTREMELY HARDY AND CAN TAKE A VERY WIDE RANGE OF CONDITIONS. WE HAVE ACTUALLY HAD THEM SURVIVE FOR OVER A MONTH IN A BAG WITH A SHIPMENT THAT GOT LOST.
You don't see anything wrong? Anyone with a brain will tell you this site is straight bull Sh#t. A short explanation is that fh's have been inbred to a point it effects their health and life span. A fh now days only live around 5 years because of the inbreeding and also the crap that people feed it (including the ways you are telling people to feed). My jag is 7 years old going strong because of this fact and I'm sure she has more faithful years ahead of her. A fh needs perfect water quality and a good stable to even have a shot of living for 5 years.

The #2 on the site, I have no problems.

The #3 is just clear as day they don't know what there talking about.

3) We recommend a temperature of 72 to 84 degrees.
From 72-84? Really? Keep any fh below 78 and movement stops, colors fade, kok vanishes, or lets just put in simple terms the fh's body shuts down. Fh's are happy at 86 degrees and high end breeders keep it there to limit temperature fluctuations and also to keep the risk of disease down.

I only read that far on your bs site because its just filled with wrong information.

You quote number 9 and 10 which are
9) The hump on a Flowerhorns head is correctly called a (KOK). Only male Flowerhorn develop a hump. The hump is made up of fatty tissue and water. It will increase and decrease in size with the health and stress of your Flowerhorn. After the stress of shipping, the KOK often decreases in size.

10) To get the KOK on your Flowerhorn as big as possible, we recommend that you keep the water crystal clear, feed it high protein food, give it a large aquarium and keep it in the presence of other Flowerhorn.
First off i'll disprove #9 with a picture. If you cant see it you sir are hopeless and to a point of stupidity it bothers me.




Is that fat? No that's muscle/tissue. NO FAT. A fh isn't a tuna it CANNOT store fat in between its muscles like a tuna.

Your number 10 of your so called trustworthy site.

You don't understand the link of protein to the kok size. A stable food is more than enough to fulfill the need of a fh to reach it's genetic potential. Why do you think a high protein food will increase it's kok size? Pure speculations? Pure ignorance? Are you trying to relate fh's to humans? How in the world are you coming up with this idea of a fh+highProtienFoods=Biggerkok?

You believing it is fat just shows the community you know nothing. Why do you believe its fat? Just because some average joe's said it was online? So because its online it must be true?

Answer these two questions in your next reply and i'll be waiting for your answers.

1). Why do you think the kok is made of fat.
2). How in the world are you coming up with this idea of a fh+highProtienFoods=Biggerkok?
 

RD.

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Time to chillax a little.........

Speaking of BS:

From 72-84? Really? Keep any fh below 78 and movement stops, colors fade, kok vanishes, or lets just put in simple terms the fh's body shuts down. Fh's are happy at 86 degrees and high end breeders keep it there to limit temperature fluctuations and also to keep the risk of disease down.


High end breeders keep FH at high temps for the same reason many discus breeders keep their fish at high temps, to increase metabolism, which increases feed intake, which ultimately speeds up growth. Increased temps can also increase aggression levels in male fish, which can result in larger nuchal humps. (an increase in kok fluid levels aka water kok)

High temps can actually increase risk of disease due to certain bacteria thriving at the high temps, a classic example is the bacteria that causes duck lips in FH, Flexibactor columnaris aka Flavobacterium columnare aka Duck Lips. Which is exactly why when I kept FH, I kept their tank water at approx 80F, and not the higher temps that a lot of the know it alls do. My fish never got sick, had good sized nuchal humps, plenty of color, and were plenty active. I'm quite certain that a drop of a couple of degrees (which often took place during water changes) wouldn't cause their body to shut down. LOL


No one here knows everything, no need to attack someone to this extent over a fishes nuchal hump. Think about it.



 

RD.

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i was born in vietnam and i came over here to american when i was 8 and i was an average size like other kids in vietnam. but somehow 6 years later i came back to vietnam im almost twice the size of the kids over there because the food we ate are different.
Correct, in your home country the children eat a diet that is much higher in carb/starch content, but this scenario cannot be extrapolated to the diet of a flowerhorn. Most hobbyists that keep FH are not feeding a high carb diet, in fact, most FH foods on the market are excessive in protein - so adding even more protein to the fishes diet does not make sense. Add to that the fact that the fat found in beef cannot be properly assimilated by the vast majority of fish, especially those that are not designated as strict carnivores, and this type of feeding can lead to long term health issues, such as fatty liver disease. If you want to add "extra" protein to your fishes diet one should do so by using aquatic based sources, such as frozen krill, shrimp, etc, not beef. But even that is not at all necessary if one is feeding a nutritionally complete quality pellet.


The following is from a post that I made in the past on the subject of feeding beef to ones fish.


Fish aren't hard wired to assimilate the fatty acids found in beef, anymore than they are hard wired to assimilate large amounts of carbs. These excess lipids get stored in & around the organs, and eventually shorten the fishes lifespan. Can these foodstuffs offer amino acids, and solid growth, yes, no question about that, but that doesn't qualify them as being a good source of food. Some of you guys don't keep any one fish long enough to see the end results of feeding foods such as beef heart, but for anyone concerned about longevity beef heart is considered a D grade of food.

Even a lot of the major discus keepers have moved away from beefheart over the past decade, for these exact reasons. It's a great food for breeders that simply want quick growth in their juvie fish (so they can take them to market quicker) but it is most certainly not an ideal long term diet. Lee Newman, Curator of Tropical Waters at the Vancouver Public Aquarium has spoken out against feeding beefheart many times, for the same reason as I do, it tends to lead to fatty degeneration of the liver.

Dr. Peter Burgess MSc, Ph.D.,of the Aquarium Advisory Service in England, is not only an experienced aquarium hobbyist, but also a scientist that specializes in the health & disease in fish. He has written over 300 articles and five books on fish health and is a visiting lecturer in Aquarium Sciences and Conservation at Plymouth University, where he works with the University of Plymouth training students in scientific research. Among his other positions, Dr. Burgess is a senior consultant to the Mars FishCare business and regularly runs fish health & husbandry courses for aquarists, fish scientists and vets. He's also a regular contributor & Fish Health consultant for the Practical Fishkeeping Magazine, as well as other magazines devoted to the fish keeping hobby.

Below is an excerpt from an article that Dr. Burgess wrote for Practical Fishkeeping Magazine titled;

Liver Damage and Red Meats

"The routine of feeding beef heart and other red meats to Cichlids can ultimately give rise to health problems. Poultry meat is also suspect. Red meats, including lean meats such as beef heart, contain the wrong sorts of fats - these harden within the cold-blooded fish, leading to blockages and fatty deposits around the liver.

Also, the relative proportions of amino acids within the mammalian proteins are different to those required by fish. Hence, feeding red meats will cause the cichlid to excrete more nitrogenous (ammonia) wastes, thereby placing an extra burden on the biological filter."
 
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DDK

Plecostomus
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May 25, 2013
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Thanks for correcting me RD., I was trying to imply from a stable temp of 78 and and under the fh starts to show negative symptoms. I see where I went wrong though, I was more in the argument as he was telling people to feed lot of beef once a day or twice a day regarding it a "secrete" to get a bigger kok. Kinda bugged me as if people listen to him they'll surely damage and shorten their fh's life.
 
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