Mega Powerful Nitrate and Phosphate Remover - DIY!

the-obstacle

Jack Dempsey
MFK Member
Oct 13, 2010
31
0
36
Auckland, New Zealand
Sorry, I haven't read through the 101 pages so far so I'm sure this question has been asked - is the colour temp of the lights important? So aiming for 6400K+ just like a tank light for growing plants?

I'm wondering if perhaps a couple of DIY store halogens would be a suitable replacement as they have the output power, just not necessarily the colour / temp for plant growth. Even better would be a couple of LED bulbs in halogen fittings for temp and length of life / efficiency.
 

the-obstacle

Jack Dempsey
MFK Member
Oct 13, 2010
31
0
36
Auckland, New Zealand
SantaMonica;4604194; said:
You want 2700 to 3000k

No halogens... too hot, not enough light.

No LED's... not enough light, too spotted, and no successes with them them.

Use CFL's, or T5H0.

More info:

http://www.algaescrubber.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=68

2700-3000K? That's a bit odd but ok. So some generic warm light would be all good then?

Wow, that link has a lot of info.
 

SantaMonica

Plecostomus
MFK Member
Oct 9, 2008
680
53
61
Santa Monica, CA, USA
Success updates...

Trichome on the CR site: "I took my skimmer out of my 29g sump about 2 months ago. Since then i have not done a water change...I know i should but i am bad about that. I NEVER have to clean my glass in my DT. I don't take water parameters so i can't tell you what mine are, but i do know i don't get any algae in my tank other than bubble algae. I harvest one side of my scrubber about every 2 weeks [needs to be more often]. The water must be pretty clean because my 2 golden striped maroon clowns have spawned, for their first time, about 1 month after i took my skimmer out. Not only are there several people in Cincinnati trying algae scrubbers with great success there is a 50 page thread of people with great success too. 6 month update: I have had my turf scrubber going on my 29g tank for 6 months now without a skimmer. Currently i have 2 Gold Stripped Maroon clownfish, a Yasha gobie, a sixline wrasse, 2 cleaner shrimp, and a candy cane pistol shrimp in the tank, along with several anemones. I have to say everything had been running great! I only have to clean the glass about once a week. Everything in the tank seems to be very happy with the current bio load. I have been doing water changes about once every 2 months (I know i should be doing it more) [not really]. As far as i can tell the turf scrubber has been a success for me and when i move i plan on adding one to my 120g display tank. However, I will not be going skimmerless on the 120g display."

Redwing on the CR site: "I set [my scrubber] up to remove algae from my display tank (and that is exactly what it is doing). But I now I have noticed that my skim-mate is much darker and that I do not have to clean it as much (about once every week not every other day). also like I posted my nitrates have never been undetectable (more like 5+ ppm) so if you ask me [the scrubber] is doing exactly what it is supposed to do. Could I take my skimmer offline maybe but I most likely will not I like knowing that I have backup if something fails [except, skimmers don't remove ammonia, so they won't help]. also my skimmer is a CL125 and I have more than 160 gallons in my hole setup so my skimmer has always been way undersized. (most people would use a skimmer twice that size for this many gallons)"

Mrbncal on the scrubber site: "I have a 75 w/ 30 gallon sump and ran w/o a skimmer for over a year BEFORE I found out about ATS'. There were some things that didnt do well, but anenomes and zoas, most lps did great, montis and a few acros grew fine w/o a skimmer. Bubble algae and hair algae did great also. Since I started running a screen covered in algae my tank has never been healthier. Its been 6 mos or so maybe 7, I have NO hair algae and the bubble algae is losing ground. Almost gone completely. I feed a ton of frozen and oyster feast. I should probably back off some feedings but the coco worms love life and the gorgonians are growing, so why change anything."

PRC on the LR site: "I use a scrubber on a 180g tank, that I upgraded from a 90g tank. Neither ever had a skimmer. I ran across this [scrubber] thread when I was initially cycling my tank, I set it up according to specs, I've never had 1 piece of algae in my tank. I, like everybody, get the usual dusting on the glass that gets brushed off. But I've never had algae, and I've never had nitrates above 5ppm. I feed alot because I've got big fish with big appetites. I also have very little clean up crew. I panicked when I first set mine up because I didn't think it was working. I just left it, it started to work and has kept my tank very stable. Just tweek it a little and give it time. It doesn't take control of the system overnight, but once it does it keeps it very stable....on top of that it only takes about 5 minutes to clean once per week. I'm so naive when it comes to algae issues that when I read a thread about hair algae, I automatically assume that somebody is just neglecting there tank terribly because I've never had to deal with it."

Renman303 on the MD site: "I have been running a 4-sheet (8 1/2" x 11") ATS since June '09 with not only no ill effects but, my water is crystal clear! I have unhooked my Deltec AP851 Protein Skimmer in July of '09 (anyone want to buy it?) and have been running solely on the ATS since then (~15 months). I scrape one side of each of the 4 sheets once a month [needs more often!]. I add no chemicals of any kind to the water and only do a 10 percent water change once a week. Salt is much cheaper than chemicals. I don't even use RO/DI water any more. I just run through Carbon as Phosban prior to mixing. Simple....as it should be!"

Vannpytt on the scrubber site: "I'm experiencing massive amounts of live particles in my water. When the lights go out, and I turn on a flashlight, I can see with my bare eyes 1-3mm long shrimplike creatures swimming in the water, jumping on the stones. It's amazing, while the water is so clear, there are still so much life. I'm also experiencing massive critical comments from the local forums claiming I'm destined to fail etc. I still have no values measurable of ammonia, nitrite, nitrate nor phosphate. The pH is fine as well as the salinity. The algae growth [in the tank] that came initially, is slower, and I added 2 lawnmovers to take care of the rest. Coraline is spreading on the live rocks, I added a Sun Coral who seems to be happy, as well as some Zoas."

Vykhang on the scrubber site: "After 4 yrs, it has become so hard to maintain my 300 gal reef/fish tank due to nitrate and phosphate. Just doing 10-15 percent water changes on 300 gal tank per week is driving me crazy not to mention salt cost. After seaching the net and came across this website, I've started my own version of scrubber. It has been running over a year for me and I've not changed (add only) water since (I don't belive in changing water if all chemicals are in spec. The scrubbers are 1" above the water line to minimize the water noise [would be even better to have the screens in the water]. Water line is maintained by electronic sensor. Can't speak for everyone but the results has been absolutelly wonderful. Nitrate and Phosphate are un-detectable. I can't thank Santa Monica enough because little to no water changes. I just maintain chemical additives and add water to my reserve tank."

Yesman on the scrubber site: "I clean it all off completely every 7 days. However as you can see with over 3 pounds in weight of algae every 7 days being scraped off the screen and with nitrates and phosphates at zero, it may be ok to clean this way. Interesting to note that at the bottom of the acrylic box, the water level is about 3 inches with algae growing all over the acrylic and alive with pods, even some amphipods!"
 

badlad53

Feeder Fish
MFK Member
Nov 5, 2010
33
0
6
seattle
Hi all!
This is my first post on MFK. I've been lurking for a while though because I'm in the process of setting up a 200g cichlid tank... So tons of info to absorb!

I have 2 items that may be helpful to folks setting up an algae scrubber. They may have been addressed already, but I only read to page 55 or so! Also, keep in mind that I have not kept fish for about 10 years, however when I did I kept several, both fw and sw... But my memory could still be faulty....

ok #1: I grow algae on purpose outside in a pond. I use it to supplement the diet of a small flock of laying hens. The more algae I can grow, the lower my feed bill goes, and the ladies LOVE it (and its very good for them). So I'm always trying to grow as much algae as possible.

Aside from the need for sunlight, my algae requires NPK just like any other plant. I like organics, so I add green sand, bone meal, manure, etc. to keep everything at the proper levels. The NPK is still my biggest limiting factor though, I'll try to explain why...

Plants like NPK at a certain balance. What this balance is depends on many factors, including the species of plant, the weather, temperature, light exposure, etc. 1:1:1 is usually a good starting point.

So using 1:1:1 as an example (and this will be very basic)... It was a hot week, so the algae used more N than P & K, dropping the ratio to .5:1:1. Now the algae is still growing, but much more slowly, as the reduced N is limiting growth. With conditions less than ideal, the algae cannot utilize P & K as efficiently. The RATIO of P and K will never drop unless more N is added (I would have been smart to add more N before the hot weather began).

Now I dont know exactly what the NPK would translate to in the aquarium world, but I'm willing to guess that N=amonia, nitrates, nitrites, P=phosphourous (the same) K=???.

So you had high amonia/nitrates /nitrites, but low phosphourous when you first installed the algae scrubber. Now the phosphourous has dropped to 0, but the amonia is only 75% of what it was.

To get it to go down as well, more phosphourous needs to be added to the system. If I remember correctly, most FW aquariums are low in phosphourous (low in most dissolved minerals period??)?? Could that be a limiting factor in the use of an algae scrubber on a FW system?

#2: It seems important to continue with some mechanical filtration on a FW system to keep the water clear because they generally do not contain nearly as many detritus consumers as a reef system does. This means that until bacteria in the FW system have broke down (i.e. "rotted") stuff that fish do not eat (such as poop, generally) the algae will be unable to utilize it as nutrients (indeed all plants require this relationship: even the manure you use in your vegetable garden is mostly unavailable to your cucumbers until bacteria have broke it down into its NPK constituents). So either the continued use of at least some mechanical filtration, or a series of FW organisms that love to eat poo!

Anyway, my apologies for the LOOOOONG response, just my 2 cents...

Later y'all!
 

SantaMonica

Plecostomus
MFK Member
Oct 9, 2008
680
53
61
Santa Monica, CA, USA
Good first guess. Ammonia/ammonium and nitrite, however, are usually eaten by bacteria on the sand and rocks long before they get to the scrubber. So it's usually the nitrate that feeds the scrubber. If something dies, however, the algae will absorb the extra Ammonia/ammonium instantly, since Ammonia/ammonium is algae's favorite food.

For P it's phosphate. And there is no real need for K (potassium). What you did miss, however, is iron. If the algae is growing yellow, it needs more flow (which delivers more iron), or it needs iron added. This is more for SW, however.

There really is no need to worry about nutrient balance, because you feed aquariums food, which is pretty balanced already (especially nori, which already is algae). If it's short in one nutrient today, after a few feedings it will be back to normal. And besides, the species of algae that grows will change to take advantage of what nutrients are available. Algae is the fastest growing flora on earth, measured in doublings per day.

For mechanical filtration, you are basically correct... you have no need in FW for microorganisms which feed on phytoplankton, and you have no need for zooplankton which feed on microorganisms (unless you have a breeder). So mechanical filters are fine in FW, and even in SW if you have no corals or small fish.
 
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