Mega Powerful Nitrate and Phosphate Remover - DIY!
- Thread starter SantaMonica
- Start date
JS: Glad you want to build one... update us with pics and test results please 
You are correct... the "growing" of the algae is what takes "soluble" nitrate and phosphate out of the water and puts it into the cells of the algae. But the algae would need to keep on growing forever in order to keep it going. And as it grows thicker, the outer layers start shading the light from the reaching the inner layers, causing the inner layers to die and release nitrate and phosphate back into the water. That's why you have to take the screen to the sink and physically remove the algae.
Zenn... that's that's the stuff. Thicker the better.
Jgray: How does the cannister fit into the plan?
You are correct... the "growing" of the algae is what takes "soluble" nitrate and phosphate out of the water and puts it into the cells of the algae. But the algae would need to keep on growing forever in order to keep it going. And as it grows thicker, the outer layers start shading the light from the reaching the inner layers, causing the inner layers to die and release nitrate and phosphate back into the water. That's why you have to take the screen to the sink and physically remove the algae.
Zenn... that's that's the stuff. Thicker the better.
Jgray: How does the cannister fit into the plan?
Basically, I'll take a 6 gallon or smaller bucket like I have for my canister filter (which is yet to be completed) and instead of allowing the canister to fully purge, only allow it to purge to a water depth of 4-6". This "canister" will be air locked allowing water to flow down the screen the way we want and the oxygen it gets will be from the water entering.
Intake at the top and output on the bottom. Water pressure on the intake side causing the canister to build up with air pressure and have a water depth of 4-6" causing the water at the bottom of the canister to be pushed out through the output at the bottom and to the tank.
Insert some flexible super bright LED strip waterproof lighting inside and you should be good to go.
Obveously more testing and theory sketching and equations need to be done but this will allow canister fans like me to do this. It will be quieter and sealed so no worries of moisture under the tank. No additional pumps or tanks required. 5 gallon of smaller bucket will work as well. As long as its able to be sealed and the flow is controlled for smaller systems.
I believe so but wouldn't new algae on top just absorb it?
zenn: Up to 1/4" holes are ok. Matter of fact, an advanced technique is to tie/glue/attach two screens together like pancakes to get double thickness; really give the algae a good place to attach to.
rucus: Correct. Once a week is recommended, per side. But the strong the lighting is, the more the light can get through to the inside.
stixx: Yes, and you can also feed it to herbivores, although that does not get the nitrate and phosphate out of the system.
jgray: LED's are still in testing... if you use them you should makes sure they are "plant-grow" ones, with at least 1000 lumens, preferably 2000 to 3000.
Yes but the nutrients are still going back into the water before being re-absorbed; thus your water's nitrate and phosphate readings will rise. Scrubber screens must be cleaned once a week, also to kill the pods which will eat the algae.
rucus: Correct. Once a week is recommended, per side. But the strong the lighting is, the more the light can get through to the inside.
stixx: Yes, and you can also feed it to herbivores, although that does not get the nitrate and phosphate out of the system.
jgray: LED's are still in testing... if you use them you should makes sure they are "plant-grow" ones, with at least 1000 lumens, preferably 2000 to 3000.
Yes but the nutrients are still going back into the water before being re-absorbed; thus your water's nitrate and phosphate readings will rise. Scrubber screens must be cleaned once a week, also to kill the pods which will eat the algae.