Oscar vs. Flowerhorn -- opinions please!

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
*adding that the dirt would be for rooting maybe some swords with a rock barrier around them or similar. Obviously I'm sifting through many ideas!
 
  • Like
Reactions: SilverArowanaBoi
So my O was in a 125 with an EBA and a few small silver dollars. The maintenance was very manageable with the right equipment. I tried to keep nitrates around 5 or lower, mainly to ward off potential hole-in-the-head that Oscars seem susceptible to.

For my 125, my water change schedule was fine once a week, though I did a large percentage. (70 percent or larger.) Occasionally, I would do 2x a week at 50 percent. I dropped a pump in the tank w/a 3/4 hose run directly out the window. I was very easy and quick.

As for filtration, I had an Fx6, tidal 110, and a couple of sponge filters. I'd say that may be considered overfiltration....which was fine be me, and the fish.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Joshuakahan
How about filling the tank? I have a sink pretty close by to the tank location, I'm sure I could get an adapter for the hose and just fill it up. We live in the country so no need to de-chlorinate first. Actually, good grief, that would really make it easier to do water changes on that than my others now that I think about it (for the other tanks I just do the traditional siphon and bucket method).

Will high nitrates cause HITH or is that more nitrites & ammonia? All the more reason for more plants! :P
 
Ammonia and nitrite are toxic and kill fish - nitrate is responsible for the chronic issues like hith.
Invest in a python (or similar siphon) - it makes water changes so much more convenient.
 
  • Like
Reactions: punchiechip
Ammonia and nitrite are toxic and kill fish - nitrate is responsible for the chronic issues like hith.
Invest in a python (or similar siphon) - it makes water changes so much more convenient.
how is this the fist time I'm learning about this?! Brilliant! Thank you!
 
I should mention that the gallons listed for tanks are model numbers, not actual gallons. I did a workup on this regarding glass safety factor. A standard 125 if you subtract the walls is actually around 17 1/4" inches swimming width. Actual gallons is 112. You can find the calculations in this thread.

Glass Class | MonsterFishKeepers.com

quick view of the chart. Dimensions and geometry affect certain sizes the most. Ratios in the last column.

1709348154079.png
 
The plan is to heavily plant it before the fish get in there. I have kind of a "thing" for heavily planted tanks...so I'm already brainstorming how I can do it with a fish that likes to dig. Planning round rocks, smooth driftwood, floating plants, and things like java fern and annubias attached to hardscape...I might also try a dirted tank with a layer of sand on top, then a hard plastic divider (like the egg crate dividers if you know what I'm referencing), then more sand on top of that. Thinking I'll have to use silicone to adhere the divider to the glass so it doesn't get shifted around. Possibly the same with the driftwood and *some* rocks but I want to leave some to be moved as desired by the fish...

Honestly I'll probably sketch a plan and put this together over several weeks/months.

Does heavy planting with oscars work to extend time between water changes? it works fantastically in my other tanks but I've never owned a fish above 3" so....

And water changes aren't such a big deal. I stay at home, plus the garden is outside the door closest to where the tank will be....

Java ferns and anubius attached to hardscape might do okay and can take some abuse. However, oscars will often dig up plants in the substrate if it blocks their view or just because. If you go dirted, even with a screen siliconed to the glass, I’d imagine once the Oscar gets large, it’ll stir up a lot of dirt just with a swipe of their tails. Might be better to use regular substrate with root tabs if your set on swordplants, vallisneria, etc

Also, slow growing plants won’t do much for removing nitrates. You’ll need some fast growers to uptake excess nutrients. Floating plants grow fast since they’re close to the light and have access to atmospheric CO2. You can also try floating stem plants like hornwort or maybe some pothos. Basically, ask Finwin…she seems to have it figured out.
 
How about filling the tank? I have a sink pretty close by to the tank location, I'm sure I could get an adapter for the hose and just fill it up. We live in the country so no need to de-chlorinate first. Actually, good grief, that would really make it easier to do water changes on that than my others now that I think about it (for the other tanks I just do the traditional siphon and bucket method).

Will high nitrates cause HITH or is that more nitrites & ammonia? All the more reason for more plants! :p
Get a Python water changer or just use a pool pump with a hose. Don’t do the old back breaker bucket method lol
 
Most large cichlids will destroy any plants in the tank, some to eat and some are just jerks with no appreciation for aquascaping. I've never tried a dirt tank with large cichlids. Some people use a heavy planted sump to get the benefits without having to wory about the cichlids destroying the plants. Also a great place to grow a shrimp colony.
 
  • Like
Reactions: punchiechip
I've had luck with floating guppy grass. When it starts to go crazy I throw some in with my africans and they dispose of it for me. It does a great job on nitrates.
 
  • Like
Reactions: punchiechip
MonsterFishKeepers.com