What's in the box? It's polys!

[jaws7777]

It doesnt lookike you have ammonia. But could just be the pic. Whats in the 55 gal ?

 

[twentyleagues]

It doesnt lookike you have ammonia. But could just be the pic. Whats in the 55 gal ?

agreed! it doesn't look like you have any ammonia in the pic. Get a good bacteria anyway it wont hurt to use it.

 

[magpie]

Just put the SafeStart you were going to use in the small tank in the big one.

Take a pic of the yellowish green water. Maybe your plants are breaking down d/t too much salt?

I thought you were getting a python? Did we discuss using water from the hose a while back? There can be bad things in hoses depending on the type and what else it's used for. With your issues and history I just wouldn't chance it personally. Get your python! On a 55 gallon tank it will be a huge timesaver and make it much easier to do WCs.

 

[clm08k]

agreed! it doesn't look like you have any ammonia in the pic. Get a good bacteria anyway it wont hurt to use it.

I could be reading it wrong. I guess I'm used to seeing it yellow. Like when nitrates are 0. To me it looks kinda a lime green.

It doesnt lookike you have ammonia. But could just be the pic. Whats in the 55 gal ?

Plants, PFS, Mopani wood, rocks.

I did the samething, 3 bottles tetra safestart after the big WC, but of course wait for 24 hrs before adding the safestart. Monitor the ammonia, it should start to drop down, then do light feed every other day, but still monitoring the ammonia.
Took maybe 1-2 weeks then ammonia got stable to 0 with twice a week WC for my tank.

this is awesome. 2 a week WC isn't bad at all. Especially with your numero of polys. That's amazing! Will do the jaws safestart method again. I think where I mess up in the past has been with adding dechlorinator and not waiting 24 hours after a WC.

Plants shouldn't add ammonia,they should help ammonia.

Did you get a new light?
What is it if so. And how long are you running it?

How often are you doing WCs on the 55?

Light is a sunblaster recommended by O. Totally trust his judgment for using it. The problem has been an inconsistent schedule for lighting. Some days it's 2 hours, others the 3-4, 6 hours some days. I have a coral life timer power strip, so will look into how to use that....

As far as the WC go. I've been doing the 55g once a week. 50% WC. twentyleagues i have some amazon shopping to do. Prime, safestart, and Python. y'all are absolutely right with all my issues and history of problems. The good news is at least I am learning and really appreciate you guys teaching me....even if it takes me a couple tries.

Salt: Probably like 1/2 cup(just guessing) in the 55g after getting rid of the parrots. Are the plants done for? Will doing another WC today help them come back? The water is definitely green/yellow tinted.

 

[magpie]

Do the WC and don't add more salt and they should recover I'd hope...?

Are you using Flourish each week?

Plants need consistent light periods. 2-4 hours is not enough.

I do 10 hours a day and I don't get algae. I'd start with 6 each day and see how they do, then go to 8.

 

[Polyaddict86]

Do the WC and don't add more salt and they should recover I'd hope...?

Are you using Flourish each week?

Plants need consistent light periods. 2-4 hours is not enough.

I do 10 hours a day and I don't get algae. I'd start with 6 each day and see how they do, then go to 8.

I do 12-14 hrs light a day, lolz

 

[magpie]

You're right, I actuallu do 12 hours. 10 am to 10 pm, that's why I said 10 hrs. LOL

But Chelsea, I'd just start at 6, then 8 so you don't get a huge algae bloom from the sudden increase. Then go from there.

 

[clm08k]

You're right, I actuallu do 12 hours. 10 am to 10 pm, that's why I said 10 hrs. LOL

But Chelsea, I'd just start at 6, then 8 so you don't get a huge algae bloom from the sudden increase. Then go from there.

This is for low light plants: Val's and swords? Wow that's a lot lol.

I use supplements from the aquavitro plant line(got them fo free). It's owned by seachem. Do those weekly.

With the phython we did tak about it. Just been dragging my feet cause of cash. Will pulll the trigger as a lot of these problems I feel are necessities.

Should I do another 50% WC on the plant tank? Tank looks more yellow/green. Mom also agrees. But water isn't when I put it in the vile.


Usually everything has a brighter white hue.

Tissue test

My betta "Mud." He wanted a picture.

Am I waiting to put the polys in the big tank(after ammonia goes down)? Or put them in now? Just want to be 100% sure on clarification before I make any major changes.

 

[magpie]

Oh the water doesn't look that bad... I wouldn't worry about that myself.

Low light refers to the fact that the plants don't need super powerful lights to thrive, and they can live without CO2 dosing. They are generally low maintenance. It doesn't mean they live in a cave. They still need consistent light. Timers are a planted tank enthusiast's best friend.

Hi Mud! You're a handsome dude!

I would... do what J jaws7777 says (reiterated by Polyaddict, who did what jaws said) LOL

if it were me i would just move the polys to the 55 ich is easily treatable ammonia in qt is a bigger enemy.

If and when you do move them try to feed very lightly as you will be increasing the bioload....again if it were me i move em and dose the 55 gal with 1 bottle of sadestart just to account for the additional bio load.


Basically did this with the 300 gal and it made all my issues disappear lol

I did the samething, 3 bottles tetra safestart after the big WC, but of course wait for 24 hrs before adding the safestart. Monitor the ammonia, it should start to drop down, then do light feed every other day, but still monitoring the ammonia.
Took maybe 1-2 weeks then ammonia got stable to 0 with twice a week WC for my tank.

- Water change (use dechlorinator, avoid hose if you can just in case)
- Wait 24 hours.
- Put a whole bottle of Safestart in.
- Acclimate fish before putting them in, like with new fish.
- Skip a day of feeding, then feed lightly every other day.
- Monitor parameters daily.

 

[jaws7777]

Oh the water doesn't look that bad... I wouldn't worry about that myself.

Low light refers to the fact that the plants don't need super powerful lights to thrive, and they can live without CO2 dosing. They are generally low maintenance. It doesn't mean they live in a cave. They still need consistent light. Timers are a planted tank enthusiast's best friend.

Hi Mud! You're a handsome dude!

I would... do what J jaws7777 says (reiterated by Polyaddict, who did what jaws said) LOL




- Water change (use dechlorinator, avoid hose if you can just in case)
- Wait 24 hours.
- Put a whole bottle of Safestart in.
- Acclimate fish before putting them in, like with new fish.
- Skip a day of feeding, then feed lightly every other day.
- Monitor parameters daily.

Good advice right there. When in doubt wc wont hurt so dont stress that.

But whats in the 55 bioload wise ? What fish ? You have an ac110 i woukd think it woukd be fine and woukd easily handle that load. I have one in the 75 gal wi 5 hets and the sen and mostly do 2x a day feedings and it handles it fine.

You can also move whatever decor you had in the qt over to the big tank as all of it will be covered in bb.

When u get some spare $$$ pick up a sponge filter they are an extremely effective source of biofiltration and are cheap.