• We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo

Worried that your stand won't hold up?

Pharaoh;3818086; said:
They wouldn't be a bad idea if you don't have specialty tools. I guess I tend to forget that at times. I recommend a Kreg Jig to anyone that works with wood on a consistent basis.
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Kreg Jigs RULE!!! I reccomend the "Kreg Jig Jr." with 3" reach face clamp reasonably priced and capacity from 1/2" to 1-1/2 That's for 2x4's guys. These tools let you hide all your screws on the inside and back of the stand so you don't see them nor have to fill/plug them. Learn what they are and how to correctly apply them and you'll be a far better woodworker. 1tip though. Be sure to use the correct screws both in thread coarseness and length for the job.
 
Kreg jigs are for cheaters. I hand-cut dovetail joints in the 2x4s with a saw when I make tank stands.
 
"I know most of us DIY people like to build things so that they could hold four tanks"

Meh...I used 19mm*42mm spans for a 6*2*2 tank.

The longest open span is 3 feet.
 
Very interesting!

One point that I don't think has been brought up is that a stand's rigidity is another very important factor. It would be easy to build a stand that can hold up the weight of a tank (or an F-250, for that matter). However, if the stand doesn't have adequate sheer strength (diagonal bracing or sheeting the exterior) it will not be safe.

I think building a rigid stand is a lot more important than building a stand for extreme vertical strength. If kids are jumping around in front of the tank or worse yet pushing on it you sure don't want the tank to sway or even wobble a tiny bit!
 
Nicely written Pharoah. I agree also with Dan Feller, Sheer strength is certainly important, especially here in CA where the earth moves.
 
Dan Feller;3822065; said:
Very interesting!

One point that I don't think has been brought up is that a stand's rigidity is another very important factor. It would be easy to build a stand that can hold up the weight of a tank (or an F-250, for that matter). However, if the stand doesn't have adequate sheer strength (diagonal bracing or sheeting the exterior) it will not be safe.

I think building a rigid stand is a lot more important than building a stand for extreme vertical strength. If kids are jumping around in front of the tank or worse yet pushing on it you sure don't want the tank to sway or even wobble a tiny bit!
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dawnmarie;3822324; said:
Nicely written Pharoah. I agree also with Dan Feller, Sheer strength is certainly important, especially here in CA where the earth moves.
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I can definitely see what you two are talking about. Shear strength of a stand is a completely diferent matter. Of course, when finishing your stand, the additional plywood will solidify the stand to and horizontal movement and possible twising. But, with the additional 2x4s in the corner, I have found the 2x4 stands to be very sturdy. When you are installing the vertical supports, I recommend gluing and screwing the two together to ensure that there is resistance to horizontal movement. When I have built previous stands having the second 2x4 in the back made all the difference in the world. The second 2x4 in the front is just icing on the cake. If you built it as pictured and attached the verticals together, I think you would be hard pressed to get it to really move.

As always, you can feel free to add additional bracing as you see fit.
 
Davey_8313;3823395; said:
So a tank stand like the one in the picture would hold a 4x2x2.5, right? I've got my plans for the week...
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Without a doubt. I have build three of these for that exact measurement.
 
Dan Feller;3822065; said:
Very interesting!

One point that I don't think has been brought up is that a stand's rigidity is another very important factor. It would be easy to build a stand that can hold up the weight of a tank (or an F-250, for that matter). However, if the stand doesn't have adequate sheer strength (diagonal bracing or sheeting the exterior) it will not be safe.

I think building a rigid stand is a lot more important than building a stand for extreme vertical strength. If kids are jumping around in front of the tank or worse yet pushing on it you sure don't want the tank to sway or even wobble a tiny bit!
Click to expand...

Pharaoh;3825426; said:
I can definitely see what you two are talking about. Shear strength of a stand is a completely diferent matter. Of course, when finishing your stand, the additional plywood will solidify the stand to and horizontal movement and possible twising. But, with the additional 2x4s in the corner, I have found the 2x4 stands to be very sturdy. When you are installing the vertical supports, I recommend gluing and screwing the two together to ensure that there is resistance to horizontal movement. When I have built previous stands having the second 2x4 in the back made all the difference in the world. The second 2x4 in the front is just icing on the cake. If you built it as pictured and attached the verticals together, I think you would be hard pressed to get it to really move.

As always, you can feel free to add additional bracing as you see fit.
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I agree with both of you. If you're going to skin the stand, you could certainly ditch the green 2x4's.

But if you don't skin it, the green 2x4's would supply ample resistance to sheer forces (if screwed and glued as Pharaoh suggests).

You could apply the factor of safety directly to the gallonage right? ie 2,200 gals / 4 = 550 gals supportable by 2x4's

It'd be interesting to see what you could "get away with" using 2x3's...

1.4"*2.5" = 3.75 square inches

3.75*8 = 30 square inches

I assume that the compression strength will drop...
 
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