the rush is i need a sump on the tank. the tank has been running without a sump for two days. ****ty situation, trying to get it done as quickly as possible. Talking to as many as possible regarding how soon it can be filled.Id atleast wait 48hrs...the product takes a full 72hrs to cure in the first place so theres no use risking another pin hole leak and tear down to repair it again for not waiting a couple days. I usually wait up to a month when i do larger jobs but the last tank i did i waited around 7-10 days and filled it up no problem. Are you probably fine to fill it up in 24hrs. yes, nothing will leech out, but the repair will be alot stronger if you actually let it dry the full 72hrs or more. Whats the rush?
Weld-on #40 and #42
- Thread starter wednesday13
- Start date
I had suspected as much, as far as the chemical bonding. my thoughts where if it were to harden in place that it would form a structural bracing effect, but i guess that is null if it does not in any way adhere to the glass. Thanks
Good info, its basically liquid acrylic when you get down to it. You can machine, sand, and polish it after 48-72hrs. It does not adhere as well to a.b.s. and other plastics as it does acrylic but i agree it should work to fix glass tank trim. I wouldnt trust the bond on a broken center brace and new trim may be cheaper than #40-42 in some cases.
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Hi, this is some great info!
I just picked up a 180 off CL that looks OK on the seams, some minor crazing but it holds water. I want to reinforce it and was thinking to use #40 and 1/2" triangular bead around the bottom and vertical seams, but considering maybe just fillet the 4 vertical seams for better aesthetics. is there any reason to not use the bead all the way around? Seems like more bonded surface area will = stronger, and take less bulk of #40 to do. Unfortunately not going to be able to get into it for at least a month but the deal was too good to pass on.
I just picked up a 180 off CL that looks OK on the seams, some minor crazing but it holds water. I want to reinforce it and was thinking to use #40 and 1/2" triangular bead around the bottom and vertical seams, but considering maybe just fillet the 4 vertical seams for better aesthetics. is there any reason to not use the bead all the way around? Seems like more bonded surface area will = stronger, and take less bulk of #40 to do. Unfortunately not going to be able to get into it for at least a month but the deal was too good to pass on.
That's the thing I guess the #42 will adhear a bunch of different types of plastics and also different types of plastics to each other unlike #40 which is just for acrylic. I'll have to see if I can find the web site again. It probably is cheaper to just purchase a new frame, but in an emergency not a bad option.
#40 and #42 are the exact same glue....#42 mixes for you like loctite brand epoxy in those plastic applicators. #40 you mix yourself. Theres is absolutly no difference between the two. The label on #40 says it will adhere to other plastics but it is a weaker bond by far compsred to acrylic.
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The reason why is doesnt adhere well to other plastics is because they are pertolueum based, oily in nature and have no pores for the glue to grab into. Its a huge difference. Says right on the label the percentage of adhesion difference. Other plastics need to be heat welded to make a bond. #42 is basically a single use application of #40 or for people who are uncomfortable mixing #40 themselves. Again no difference. #42 is not magically stronger in any way.
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Thank you for the clarification, when I was reading about both products that is what was stated, I guess you can't believe everything you read. Now on the 42 you stated it is single use, so if you don't use the whole tube you throw the rest away or can you just change the applicator tube and reuse.
