So I'll I have to resort to some medication then?Just a little info, salt is salt (as long as the contents of the package read NaCl) its all salt, table salt, aquarium salt, rock salt, its all salt. Table salt may have a tiny amount of an anti-caking agent (usually <0.1% that keeps it free flowing, but its still salt. Rock salt may have a few impurities, but its salt.
I use water softener salt to treat ich, a 50lb bag for $5, mostly because its rated for human consumption, meaning there may be fewer impurities, but it is salt.
As long as the salinity of tank water reaches 3ppt (parts per thousand) it will work.
At 3ppt the cell walls of newly emerging ich collapse from osmotic pressure.
2.5ppt, will irritate them, but not rid your tank.
So that comes to 3.75 cups of salt in my 90. Does that seem right? I have young dovii in the tank, about 1 inch long each. Will a salt treatment hurt them? Also, how often should I change the water during the treatment and is important to add salt back to it during the change?I am writing this because it is something that comes up so often.
Ich is a protozoal infection that afflicts fish and can rapidly kill them, most often by damaging gill tissue.
The organism goes through a life cycle of;
a small white spot feeding on your fish,
which drops off to the floor of your tank and encysts,
while encysted it divides into up to 2000 new mobile organisms,
the cyst ruptures, releasing the mobile organisms which seek out a host.
Only the mobile stage is vulnerable to treatment by anything that will not also kill your fish.
Here is an old fashioned but very effective method for treatment.
It can be used for most fish but morymids, corys, and some pims are sensitive to salt. Because the organism infest the tank, the whole tank should be treated.
Raise the temp of your tank to at least 85-86 degrees F.
Add aquarium salt (dissolved in water) at a ratio of 2 teaspoons of salt per gallon of water in your tank.
Now wait, while waiting it does not hurt to add a powerhead or airstone to increase the O2 level.
Over the first couple days your fish will look worse but then they will clear up. about the sixth day they will look clear but because some ecystments have not yet hatched keep the treatment up for the full 10 days.
If you are not able to raise the temperature you need to extend the treatment, at 85 the ich's life cycle is quick but at 72 it can take weeks, below 70F treat for 6 weeks.
There are medicines you can use but many fish are sensitive to them, you can also try just heat at 90-91 degrees F but some fish can't take that heat and some strains of ich can survive it.
The salt and heat method is one I have used several times with sucess.
1) 2 tsp per gallon is 180 tsp in 90 gallons; there are 48 tsp per cup, thus 180/48=3.75 cupsSo that comes to 3.75 cups of salt in my 90. Does that seem right? I have young dovii in the tank, about 1 inch long each. Will a salt treatment hurt them? Also, how often should I change the water during the treatment and is important to add salt back to it during the change?
What do your nitrates look like?I have 4 guianacara stergiosi that scratching at the gravel. There is nothing to see on them, they eat and poop normaly. Water parameters are just fine and i change at least 30% every week. Temp is 78.8 F.
Should i give them the heat treatment as described and add salt?
I use tetra test and its normaly at 12.5 mg/lWhat do your nitrates look like?