Twin Red Sea Reefer 1000 build (freshwater)

harrisonsaid

Exodon
MFK Member
Feb 6, 2022
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Regarding the water supply...

My original plan was to use mixing valves to regulate the temp of the supplied water to 80 degrees, which would offload some of the burden of heating the water to the cheaper natural gas water heater. After doing some research on the way they work and their reliability, I decided it was too much of a risk for me. If the temperature of the inlet water changes (as it will during winter and summer months) the mix will need to change as well, and I can't be confident it will always be 80. I could get into a more complicated system for monitoring supply water temp, but just decided to give up on the mixers and just supply cold water. Right now on a warm day, that's 74 degrees and won't cause much of an issue. Winter might tell a different story but I will deal with that then.

I'm trying to finalize plans on how to regular the supply water into the tanks as well. I feel it's best to keep this very simple with a needle valve, measuring the output and adjusting until I get the 30 gallons a day I'm shooting for, but then I also found this liquid flow sensor. Combined with a solenoid, it could automatically regulate the fill and shut it off if needed. I'm not sure I want more electronics to fail, but it's a cool concept.

I finished roughing in the plumbing on the wall (hot water supply capped since I won't be using it). I'm not a big fan of hard plumbing the sumps into this drain, so I set it up for dual 1" barb fittings and I will run a braided hose between the two. I doubt the sump will be moving much, but this felt like a better option to me.

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Making good progress on the wall, I should be finished tonight and I'm also bringing the stands in tonight/this weekend so that I can hopefully get tanks installed early next week.

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fishguy1978

Redtail Catfish
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Mar 30, 2020
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I would recommend using a more flexible hose for the water change drain. I used python hose for mine. It's not pressurized so braided is over kill.

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fishguy1978

Redtail Catfish
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Mar 30, 2020
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harrisonsaid

Exodon
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Feb 6, 2022
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Yes, cheaper too.
Okay, great insight. I bought some braided already for pump connection but I was already feeling like I was short.

I think my LFS has bulk hose. I have some spare python hose too but for ease of connections and adapters I'm running 1" drains so it won't work.

I'm sure someone has regular 1" hose in town.
 

harrisonsaid

Exodon
MFK Member
Feb 6, 2022
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Both stands 90% assembled and moved in place, and the wall is finished.

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Now I need to clean up the room, level and even out the stands, and finish the assembly (floors, doors, sump install with drilling, drain plumbing, etc).

I called the movers and they're booked until the 7th, so once they can come out I should be ready and waiting for the tanks to go up. Getting close to the end, ready to be able to enjoy the tanks!
 
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jstevenz

Plecostomus
MFK Member
Nov 25, 2010
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Did you mention you built that stand yourself? If so it looks amazing. I see you have self-leveling feet. Did you have to beef up and get industrial grade ones for all the weight or how did you go about this?
 

harrisonsaid

Exodon
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Feb 6, 2022
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Did you mention you built that stand yourself? If so it looks amazing. I see you have self-leveling feet. Did you have to beef up and get industrial grade ones for all the weight or how did you go about this?
No, can't take credit for that. These are the stands that come with the Red Sea tanks, and one of the many reasons I decided to spend so much money on a tank.

Each tank I believe has 15 feet with a 3/8" threaded stud. I can't find any specs on compression strength but the tensile load of each is like 15k pounds, so I imagine it will be okay.
 

harrisonsaid

Exodon
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Feb 6, 2022
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Well, I seem to have run into my first real problem on this build.

The drain height was set by the plumbing in the wall...there wasn't much I could do about that. It seemed somewhat low and well below the overall height of the sump...but I wasn't expecting the glass separating the return chamber to be so low in the sump. The drain and absolute top of the return chamber are basically the same height.

I'm going to have to do some thinking about how to solve this properly, because the drain needs to be drilled a little below that wall so it doesn't backflow into the sump, and we all know water doesn't go uphill.

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wednesday13

Silver Tier VIP
MFK Member
Mar 2, 2008
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If u have room to spare for ur skimmers/working space u can raise ur sumps a bit with 2x4’s. Or 2x4/4x4 under the stands them selves to raise everything up a bit. If not… not terrible to have the plumber back out to lower the drain pipe. Prob the easiest solution.
 
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