Building a 1500 Gallon plywood & glass tank

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
I am definitely curious to see what the glass thickness needs to be.

Nice progress.
 
Good luck. That cubby hole looks like the perfect spot for something like that.
 
I'm not understanding the whole concept of the cement not holding up. This to me seems as rediculous as people thinking they can't put a 300 gallon upstairs....

Someone school me here..... How thick is the cement layed in basements?
 
I believe the average is 3 inches for the floor. You can always drill a hole to test if not sure.
 
One thing I'd like to point out... I'm not sure how the tank will fit preciesly, but you'll want to be able to crawl under the tank and stand up behind it if possible (I.E. Don't fill the room right to the back wall.) If it eaver leaks, or you need to get at the plumbing or wiring, or whatever, being able to access the back side without cutting a hole through the wall is a major plus (speaking from experience - wives don't like holes in walls to get at fishtank plumbing.).

Other than that it looks really good. I doubt you'll need any extra support in the way of joists. I'd suggest the 3/4" marine grade ply instead of 2 layers of 1/2. Just make sure the seam falls on a joist, maybe do a double joist on the seam to give you extra fastening room. Make sure your marine grade ply is DRY before you fiberglass it, and you should be good to go! The marine ply is more expensive, but it's A grade ply with no voids, and should be chemical treated to be rot resistant for a loooooong service life under your tank where it may be damp without you knowing it.
 
Since when are 3 foot tall tanks capable of cracking 3 inch thick concrete? Maybe 12K lbs set on a small point, but with the given footprint am I outta line saying there is just simply NO friggin way?
 
cvermeulen;2701734; said:
One thing I'd like to point out... I'm not sure how the tank will fit preciesly, but you'll want to be able to crawl under the tank and stand up behind it if possible (I.E. Don't fill the room right to the back wall.) If it eaver leaks, or you need to get at the plumbing or wiring, or whatever, being able to access the back side without cutting a hole through the wall is a major plus (speaking from experience - wives don't like holes in walls to get at fishtank plumbing.).

Other than that it looks really good. I doubt you'll need any extra support in the way of joists. I'd suggest the 3/4" marine grade ply instead of 2 layers of 1/2. Just make sure the seam falls on a joist, maybe do a double joist on the seam to give you extra fastening room. Make sure your marine grade ply is DRY before you fiberglass it, and you should be good to go! The marine ply is more expensive, but it's A grade ply with no voids, and should be chemical treated to be rot resistant for a loooooong service life under your tank where it may be damp without you knowing it.

If you look at the first post, the tank doesn't look square, but rectangular, and the last picture, the frame looks square...Maybe he's put down the frame and he's going to cut a door into the backside?
 
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