diy overflow

Hartzell

Feeder Fish
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Jan 29, 2007
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CHOMPERS;478836;478836 said:
yes it matters.

There is good newsbut
there is bad news...

The bad news is that by having the outside loop lower than the inside loop, it will continue to siphon until air passes the inside loop, causing the upper loop to fill with air. The system will not restart.

The good news is that I don't have to fix it...I mean, it is an easy fix. All you have to do is cut the pipe between the outer loop and the upper loop, remove enough pipe to make them even and then connect them with a slip coupler. If the clearance of the tee is an issue, then you may have to replace it and the two 90's also. You can reuse the vent pipe.



turn your tee to be parallel with the outside loop, then add one more 90 pointing down. From there you can plumb to anywhere.
Keep up the good work
Ron
Chompers, I'm trying to make an overflow too. Can my outside loop be shorter than my inner loop (the opposite case of IRoman's set-up)? I want the inner loop to rest on the substrate, but due to the stand construction, my Tee has to be at a higher level than the substrate's level (making the outer leg about 2" shorter than the inner leg) to be able to go over the edge/wall of my Sump. Will the set-up still work?
 

CHOMPERS

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That will work. What is really important is the tee not being lower than the inside loop.
 

wlecount

Jack Dempsey
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Apr 27, 2006
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Well I've been reading up on these overflows and I finally decided to make one for myself. I've got a heavily stocked 75 gallon that just needs more filtration and a DIY sump is hopefully what I need to clean up the tank. So here's my overflow made of 1" PVC painted black with Krylon Fusion. After discussion on the overflow needing a strainer I went in search of my own and luckily found a 1 1/2" strainer fitting for PVC and after some PVC fittings I got it all hooked up and looking good. Also I made a sump out of a rubbermain tub and a storage tower. Now I all I need is a pump to make the whole system work :).

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CHOMPERS

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Without knowing what your water tests look like, it would be wise to be doing daily water changes.

Plastic pot scrubbers are better than the lava rock in the long term. Since they are paid for, stick with them for now but keep an eye out for good deals on scrubbies.

Also, you didn't glue the 90 for the strainer, did you? You will find that pipe is too short and you will want to adjust it some. Ditch the strainer for now and go with the pipe just being straight up. The water overflowing into it will be about a quarter inch over it. Your fish won't get sucked into it.
 

sma

Gambusia
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What would be the gph for a 1" PVC overflow? which mag drive or any other pumps would you recommend to get?
 

Euge

Fire Eel
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Jun 26, 2005
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quick question. Does the length of the intake tube have to be the length of the amount of water in your tank?
 

CHOMPERS

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Euge;720775; said:
quick question. Does the length of the intake tube have to be the length of the amount of water in your tank?
No, but the longer it is, the stronger the syphon it will generate.
 

DB junkie

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I have recently built a pair of 1.25s. Just messing with one of them right now.

The pump is a rio 2500hp. Head is 4 foot. The overflow is dumping into a tidepool 2. The thing has been running for 3 days. I have lost a 1/2 inmch of water in the sump. I have noticed mixxed opinions on the max flow of a 1.25 overflow. Is the reason my water level continues to drop because the overflow is just shy of being able to flow the same gph as what the pump is running? OR am I just noticing evaporation? I just marked the level in the tank.......we'll see if that changes.

I also noticed you guys are saying that 1.5 inch DOES work? I thought that on the reef forum site they said there was very minimal success with a 1.5 inch overflow. Just wanted to get confirmation that it DOES work before I build one......And exactly what max flow on a 1.5 inch overflow would be?

Last question.....I have seriously been eyeballing that tidepool. What if I was to incorporate this into a wet dry........basically drill holes in the sump side and suspend it over a big tote full of bio balls inside an even bigger tote? Would this be a waste to butcher the tidepool or would it be a good idea? I want to max out both 1.25 in overflows (whatever the max flow is). Is this going to be too much for the tidepool? I have a huge amount of bioballs that have been just sitting. I would like to incorporate them. Should I just build a new wet/dry sump from scratch or should I use the tidepool?

I would like your guys' opinion.

The tank is a 180. Want to get the filter perfected before I put the nice fish in it. But this system will be supporting the most expensive fish I will probobly ever own so I would like to make sure I get everything right and as good as I can get it. Right now I'm just messing around figuring out how this stuff works. But eventually I would like to be able to turn the water 15 times an hour. I'm guessing the closer I can mimic rapids the better off my fish will be.
 

sma

Gambusia
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dumb question, how do you start the water flow?
 

Euge

Fire Eel
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once its primed properly it should start when the intake goes underwater. To get it primed what i do is make sure the intake is underwater then cover the output and suck on the vent. Then suck on the checkvalve to get the air out.
 
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