diy overflow
- Thread starter eh1421
- Start date
You did nice work...and resisted the urge to redesign the thing. KUDOS 
You need to install an air line check valve in the upper loop so you can suck the air out. It needs to be done periodically, especially after it has been in service for a while.
If there is a consistent air leak, I would suspect the union o-ring as the culprit. Normally dry fitting them is sufficient, but if there is a die line in the plastic then you will need to grease the o-ring. Actually it is best to grease it just to eliminate it as a trouble spot.
You need to install an air line check valve in the upper loop so you can suck the air out. It needs to be done periodically, especially after it has been in service for a while. If there is a consistent air leak, I would suspect the union o-ring as the culprit. Normally dry fitting them is sufficient, but if there is a die line in the plastic then you will need to grease the o-ring. Actually it is best to grease it just to eliminate it as a trouble spot.
Maybe im not starting it correctly. what im doing is filling up the and when water level goes over the ovlerflow i start sucking from the air check valve untill water starts flowing. Am i not getting all the air out of the top loop? i also tried using a a big powerhead to prime it. it still will not restart.
by the way, the shape of the upper loop is irrelevent. As long as there are no air leaks, you should be good to go.
When you paint it, be sure to wipe down the entire outside with either acetone or pvc pipe cleaner. Otherwise the paint will blister and peal after it has been in service for a while.
When you paint it, be sure to wipe down the entire outside with either acetone or pvc pipe cleaner. Otherwise the paint will blister and peal after it has been in service for a while.
CHOMPERS;1051082; said:You did nice work...and resisted the urge to redesign the thing. KUDOS
If there is a consistent air leak, I would suspect the union o-ring as the culprit. Normally dry fitting them is sufficient, but if there is a die line in the plastic then you will need to grease the o-ring. Actually it is best to grease it just to eliminate it as a trouble spot.
the checkvalve is there. i was thinking(union) the same thing so i removed the union completely(overflow is permanently on there now). and it still wont restart. Im really puzzled cause its the exact same design except for that lil slant i got. Also when it run is gurgling a lot.
xcuter;1051083; said:
The design is good. It is getting air in it somewhere (air leak). How long has it run continuously? And will it restart after an instantanious shut down?
xcuter;1051095; said:
The gurgling is occuring in the pipe going down to the sump. It flows more water than the overflow can supply. Thus it draws air from the vent. By adding a ball valve after the tee, you can tune the system. Close the ball valve just to the point when it stops gurgling.
CHOMPERS;1051109; said:
inst that the same as puttin acap on the vent a drilling a hole in it? but thats the least of my worries right now got to find my airleak. could it be a bad checkvalve? when i suck air and water comes out. when i blow in nothing air tight. how do you glue the check valve on? do u sue silicone
or pvc glue?
A cap with a hole is asking for a new can of worms.
Glue or silicone will work. Silicone does not bond well to plastics and the seal can break just by excessive handling (a problem I have to deal with). Glue does not have that problem but when you need to change the check valve, then it is a bigger job. Drilling it out isn't as easy as it sounds because the check valve plastic is harder than the pvc.
Sealing the check valve may fix the problem.
Glue or silicone will work. Silicone does not bond well to plastics and the seal can break just by excessive handling (a problem I have to deal with). Glue does not have that problem but when you need to change the check valve, then it is a bigger job. Drilling it out isn't as easy as it sounds because the check valve plastic is harder than the pvc.
Sealing the check valve may fix the problem.
Today I built a 50mm pvc overflow, okay works all good. One problem though, when i cut power out and plug back in, it starts up again but water going down the sump isnt fast as before the powerout and at that rate the tank will start to overflow but if i suck in the air from the airline thing, the flow is going good again.
I know someone ran into this problem but cant seem to find the post anymore. Anyone know where i went wrong?
I know someone ran into this problem but cant seem to find the post anymore. Anyone know where i went wrong?