diy overflow

CHOMPERS

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aquaboy;1264559; said:
Sorry if you covered this... I looked and didn't see anything about using larger pipe IE: 2 inch is that possible as I have access to 2 inch clear acrylic. Would that work on a 2 135 with a 33 sump ?
Thanks in advance for your reply :D
Yes it will work. There has been a myth floating around on some of the other boards that overflows do not work with pipes 1 1/2" and larger. However, there have been several people here that have proved that myth wrong.

Take lots of pictures of your build! We have been waiting for a clear one for ages. Once you see it in operation, you will realize how simple it really is.
 

CHOMPERS

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Euge;1284386; said:
With this design tho doesn't a lot of air get sucked into the overflow? I thought the purpose of having the elbow was to reduce that?

cuprajake;1284461; said:
im having a slight problem,

the overflow intake, if it is flat with the surface does in introduce to much air?

am i better off using an elbow to do it?

and i have the check valve but does it have to be attached to a power head what is the best way to do it???
The elbow serves no purpose (other than to be directional). It does nothing to prevent air from entering the system. Air will only enter the system if there is excessive flow. Thus, it is better to operate two rather than one (to keep the flow down).

Also, the check valve does not have to be connected to a power head. Just make sure to check for gas build up once a month. The bacteria that will grow inside will off-gas and can build up over time. The older the overflow, the more off-gassing will occur.
 

rallysman

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Looks like the water level will be low, but it should do the trick.
 

zdoo2

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hey, i was wondering if this will work, i am planning to have 2 1" overflows on my 150g SW tank but dont want to get rid of the space, would this work or would the inside pipe need to be extended further to the lenght of the outside pipes within the overflow box? also, is all pvc alright to use in an aquarium, i went to home depot and they have black pvc that goes up to like 6" and white pvc to like 4" and "potable pvc" but that stuff only goes up to 3/4" ID. the guy at the store said only the potable stuff is safe to use in the aquarium is that true? also do you guys use any glue to fasten the pieces together?
 

zdoo2

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zdoo2;1381681; said:
hey, i was wondering if this will work, i am planning to have 2 1" overflows on my 150g SW tank but dont want to get rid of the space, would this work or would the inside pipe need to be extended further to the lenght of the outside pipes within the overflow box? also, is all pvc alright to use in an aquarium, i went to home depot and they have black pvc that goes up to like 6" and white pvc to like 4" and "potable pvc" but that stuff only goes up to 3/4" ID. the guy at the store said only the potable stuff is safe to use in the aquarium is that true? also do you guys use any glue to fasten the pieces together?
i changed my design, the blue tubes will be 1" and red one is 4", the 4" is capped at the bottom with a piece of acylic and the 2 1" inside U's go through the cap. will this design be noisy and will it push 1200gph from 6' up?

overflow1.JPG
 

CHOMPERS

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If they have black pvc in one inch, go with that. btw, you are very lucky to have a HD with it if it is normal plumbing. The white pvc is what is used most and it can be painted. You will need to glue it together using pvc glue and cleaner (or primer). Even though it is new parts, the cleaner removes the extrusion oils and prepares the plastic for the glue. Using the cleaner will give you joints that are ten times stronger than a joint without cleaner or primer. Also you will have less chance of leaks.

When you glue the parts together, put glue on both the pipe and the fitting. When you put two glued parts together, the glue should drip all over the place. If not, you risk having dry joints that can leak.
 

CHOMPERS

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The noise doesn't come from the 4" part, it comes from the vents. It is caused by the suction created from the 6' drop. The plumbing going to the filter will always create more suction than the overflow can provide. The best solution is to add a ball valve to the exit of the overflow and then slowly close it off to just the point that it stops gurgling.
 

outlaw

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okay ive read this thread in the past and i remember there was some discussion about a continuous syhphon at the check valve to keep air from building up in the top of the pipes. what if you took a powerhead and connected the little air line to the check valve, would that be enough pull to keep air from building up in the pipe? just a thought AO
 
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