The pathogens is known to proliferate in waters experiencing temperatures higher than normal. The microcysts of the pathogen can remain viable for several years after encysting. And, are usually formed during winter months where they await a temperature shift to above 54F. If these warmer conditions existed in the reservoirs that provide municipal waters to the public, the pathogens can be introduced into a healthy aquarium system. Population concentrations may also be increased if hatcheries, which usually experience overpopulation of their stock, share the same waste-water treatment plant as the municipal water district. Chlorinating the water kills most of the pathogens. But, not all. Especially if the chlorination full dose was miscalculated or the contact time was reduced due to demands on the system.
Flexibacter columnaris Help!!!!
- Thread starter beerad555
- Start date
When you're at the point of losing fish, IMO, treat all tanks as if they're all infected.
After losing over $4K in collection pieces and breeding stock in less than a week, I treated all tanks. Once I learned that the disease may have originated from my municipal water provider/public works department I incorporated a large UV sterilizer system on my water storage tanks. The 5Kgal tank held all of my water change supply (the storage tank had a 5-stage whole house filter at its inlet side). I even plumbed my 400gal RO storage tank into the UV system just to be on the safe side.
Is it normal that the water becomes quite cloudy when using the oxy treatment? and does it cause the fish to not eat because after starting treatment none of my fish seem to want to?
The water will tint from the antibiotic and cloud from the inert ingredients. As with all antibiotic treatments, the 'patient' usually will appear to get worse before getting better. That's the medication kicking the body into fighting off the infection/pathogen. That's also the reason I recommended starting at the low end of the treatment dosage. It's so infected fish that are severely stressed and weakened from the infection have a better chance of surviving the initial stress of the medication on their immune systems.
Ok that is the plan, Iam starting with 300 mg per 20 gal and up the dosage gradually. I am wondering about this spot on my starphire at his anal fin which from what I have read is what occurs with Flexibacter columnaris, will this gradually go away with the oxy treatment or should I try and remove this myself?
all great recommendations by oddball. I would definitely use oxytet. Remember it is light sensitive so Lots of times I will cover the tank while using it. While it degrades it will turn the tank darker yellow.
Oddball when you used the oxytet intended for livestock did you get any nasty bacteria blooms? It has a fair amount of sugar in it. Every time i tried it my fish would be doing great then an bacteria bloom would wipe them out.
Oddball when you used the oxytet intended for livestock did you get any nasty bacteria blooms? It has a fair amount of sugar in it. Every time i tried it my fish would be doing great then an bacteria bloom would wipe them out.
I never saw any bloom issues. Of course, I may have avoided it due to performing daily water changes of at least 50%. BTW, I drained all the water to a gravel pit in the back instead of my usual draining to the garden. I didn't want the disease and antibiotics getting to my vegetables.
Speaking of light issues. I didn't have any lights on on the tanks during treatment. I only had the ceiling lights on while the lights/covers were being cleaned with disinfectants and bleach.
Speaking of light issues. I didn't have any lights on on the tanks during treatment. I only had the ceiling lights on while the lights/covers were being cleaned with disinfectants and bleach.
That leads to my next question , do I need to disenfect all artificial plants and driftwood, lids, filters etc..... in the tank ?
