GLASS VS. ACRYLIC
- Thread starter TCZeli
- Start date
Depending on where it is located, drain water below scratch, buff it out (probably 15 minutes) and fill back up; I have done it before. It's usually better to remove all fish and place them into a bin so they cannot eat acrylic shavings. Water change or fine-mesh netting can remove most the shavings.
ALSO, don't use any finishing/buffing cream, only sandpaper when working inside the tank. A good kit I use is made by Lifeguard Aquatics (sorry, for some reason I thought it was called Rainbow in my previous post). It is a must have for any acrylic tank owner!
link: http://www.bigalsonline.com/edealin...medium=Comparison+Shopping&CAWELAID=388700732
ALSO, don't use any finishing/buffing cream, only sandpaper when working inside the tank. A good kit I use is made by Lifeguard Aquatics (sorry, for some reason I thought it was called Rainbow in my previous post). It is a must have for any acrylic tank owner!
link: http://www.bigalsonline.com/edealin...medium=Comparison+Shopping&CAWELAID=388700732
The only place you'll get scratches on the inside is at the gravel line and you don't see that anyway, on either glass or plexi...Inside scratches that are filled with water do not show. Scratches on the outside of the tank can be avoided if you use a micro fiber cloth and Novus or equivalent to clean it with. No more costly than a glass aquarium cleaner that is fish safe...
The scratches that do occur are as mentioned above are easily removed unlike glass that are more difficult and costly to remove...
...when you get a monster size tank, doing so in glass, you have to remember getting it to location is a royal pain in the ass if it weighs upwards of 500lbs...
that means at least 5 strong guys to move and 7-8 would be better to hand off the tank...
The scratches that do occur are as mentioned above are easily removed unlike glass that are more difficult and costly to remove...
...when you get a monster size tank, doing so in glass, you have to remember getting it to location is a royal pain in the ass if it weighs upwards of 500lbs...
that means at least 5 strong guys to move and 7-8 would be better to hand off the tank...
It is, the seams usually last longer, and it is MUCH better insulated than glass is. You can run less heating on an acrylic tank than you would on a glass tank. And the heaters will also kick on less, saving $$ as heaters are the most energy-using part of most warm water systems. Goes the same way for chillers.Scottfree;3915749; said:
I have owned 120 Gal. acrylic and 120 Gal. glass tanks.
The acrylic aquired an irrepairable scratch. Right center midway up. Every time I looked at the tank that scratch jumped out at me, and everyone commented on it. It bedeveled me till I gave it away. Also I didn't like the reduced access at the top as compared to the glass, also the brace at the top was a grunge magnet that after numerous scrubbings, (the only way to get the grunge off), became opaque and blocked light. There was no tint in it but it did have a lot of light distortion. I was easily moved by 2 people.
The glass did have a green tint but with good lighting it is negligable. As to the "ugly" seams, while they are unsightly, from my perspective just blend into the background as a border. I 'recon they are a neccessary evil. I liked that it had almost total access through the top, minus approximately a 6" brace in the center. It took 4 healty men to lift it to its platform. I guess if you're not in a traveling aquarium show moving it won't be much of an issue.
I am currently in the process of designing and building a custom aqua system to populate with African Cichlids, and a clown pleco or two.
I'm considering acrylic for my wet/dry filter. Would appreciate any input on this as I only have experience with glass in that application.
Also I am toying withe the idea of a hybrid tank using a reinforced carbon fiber strata as the base, maybe sealing it with poly-urethane, or if possible use it as the base and back. Anyway that's just thinking out loud, I
have only just begun to research that.
So my conclusion is, unless my carbon fiber deal flops, glass is my preferred medium.
The acrylic aquired an irrepairable scratch. Right center midway up. Every time I looked at the tank that scratch jumped out at me, and everyone commented on it. It bedeveled me till I gave it away. Also I didn't like the reduced access at the top as compared to the glass, also the brace at the top was a grunge magnet that after numerous scrubbings, (the only way to get the grunge off), became opaque and blocked light. There was no tint in it but it did have a lot of light distortion. I was easily moved by 2 people.
The glass did have a green tint but with good lighting it is negligable. As to the "ugly" seams, while they are unsightly, from my perspective just blend into the background as a border. I 'recon they are a neccessary evil. I liked that it had almost total access through the top, minus approximately a 6" brace in the center. It took 4 healty men to lift it to its platform. I guess if you're not in a traveling aquarium show moving it won't be much of an issue.
I am currently in the process of designing and building a custom aqua system to populate with African Cichlids, and a clown pleco or two.
I'm considering acrylic for my wet/dry filter. Would appreciate any input on this as I only have experience with glass in that application.
Also I am toying withe the idea of a hybrid tank using a reinforced carbon fiber strata as the base, maybe sealing it with poly-urethane, or if possible use it as the base and back. Anyway that's just thinking out loud, I
have only just begun to research that.
So my conclusion is, unless my carbon fiber deal flops, glass is my preferred medium.
I have only owned glass but ive heard about how easily acrilick scraches even a pleco can scratch it
