Mega Powerful Nitrate and Phosphate Remover - DIY!

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
I used a table saw with a carbide tipped blade for the slot and cross-cuts...Make it longer than you need so you have something to hang onto while you are sawing the slot. The cross cuts are 1" apart and the blade height was set at 1/4" for the 3/4" - sch 20 PVC pipe
 
SantaMonica;2319524; said:
Very cool, might be a sprout :)

You can compare pics from day to day and watch it fill in. Do you know if you will get a mirror?
I am chalking the ground to see if there is better exposure time about 80-90 degrees counter clockwise...Dunno about the mirror I got neighbors that might not like the sun lazed into their windows...:D;) Maybe though if I get a screaming deal on some mirriored Plexi...I'm sure indirect sunlight is still better than artificial light...
 
OK I just had another thought here. What about algae eating fish and inverts? What about running 2 screens, and when one gets overly clogged, put it in the tank and let your pleco or apple snail have a go at it for a week while the other screen fills up with algae. The only thing that seems wrong with this picture to me is it seems like you're getting something for free - wouldn't other toxins accumulating become a concern at some point?
 
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Nutrients3.jpg

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Text Version:

Nutrients, part 3

The amount of Inorganic Nitrate and Inorganic Phosphate that a scrubber removes is directly controlled by how much light-power hits the scrubber:

1" - The light-power is full strength.
4" - At 4" distance, the same bulb power has to cover four times the area, so the power per square inch is only 25 percent of what is was (reduced 75%).
6" - At 6" distance, the same bulb power has to cover nine times the area, so the power per square inch is only 11 percent of what is was (reduced 89%).

This is why placing the bulb very close to the scrubber is extremely important.
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