Mega Powerful Nitrate and Phosphate Remover - DIY!

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dlp40

Gambusia
MFK Member
Oct 27, 2007
315
2
16
hopewell,va
Well since my last post a few weeks ago I think i have finally gotten my ATS working. I tested the water today and from 20ppm nitrate to 0.00ppm and po4 of over .2 down to unmeasureable. Not to say i haven't had my snags in the 2 months I have been using it, but it's well worth the trouble. I mean I havent done a water change in 2 months, this has already paid for the ATS twice. another testimit on how much i like this DIY filter is, even when i had the wrong screen and lights on it, my algea from the tank disapeared. I had a few rocks completly covered with hair algae and it disapeared in less then one month.

Thank you SantaMonica for posting this threafd on MFK's, it has helped me out a lot.

some noteable snags have been, the use of unsuitable screen materials( tank divider and plexi), wrong size groove for the screen(too big /to small), and even wrong spectrum lights. On going hassels include, having to top off my sump everyother day due to evaperation, constant cleaning of the screen, and constant light maint. None of these hassels out-way the pros of having the ats
 
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SantaMonica

Plecostomus
MFK Member
Oct 9, 2008
680
53
61
Santa Monica, CA, USA
Several updates:

1. Does anyone know of a diver, or can you post on a site with divers, who can take some pics and videos of reef water? What is needed is this: The diver takes a camera and a piece of black cloth/plastic/etc to a reef location; he holds the black sheet about 24 inches from the camera, and takes hi-res pics and video of the plankton floating between the camera and the sheet. Hi-res would be important because of the small particle sizes. Being near corals would be important because that's where the corals feed. And doing it at night would be a great plus, since that's when more plankton is out. Daytime will suffice, however. The purpose of this is to show that reefs really are packed with food particles, and are not "polished" the way reefers "think" they are.

2. Replace bulbs every 3 months, even when they look fine.

3. Clean pump in vinegar every 6 months, even if you think it runs fine.

4. "Turf" is not the goal; Green hair is the goal. It filters the best, because it lets light get to the roots, and it lets water flow throughout the strands. If you start getting real turf, remove it with a hacksaw blade:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d9fMdJRmYGM

5. Since the current scrubber recommendations are different from the original recommendations at the start of this thread, here is a new scrubber introduction which could replace post number one: http://www.radio-media.com/fish/AlgaeScrubbers.doc

6. The two most important quotes I've found so far:

"Where deep lagoons are formed, coral growth, especially of Acropora, can be prolific"

"Contrary to popular belief, species diversity is not at its highest on the scenically attractive reefs found in clear oceanic water. It reaches a peak for any given region on fringing reefs protected from strong wave action, where the water is slightly turbid."

-- Corals of the World, Vol 1 page 27

Why? Because it shows that there is more coral growth in lagoon areas than on reefs. How is this? Since lagoons have more algae, they have less nutrients, and more organics (food), than reef fronts (data easily found in reference studies). And that's what corals, especialy SPS, need to grow. Reef fronts (where mostly Acro's grow) actually have higher nutrients and lower organics (food) than lagoons. Why then are there mostly Acro's on reef fronts? Because Acro's don't break under wave action like other corals, and therefore Acro's have less competition (also taken from Corals of the World, Vol 1 page 27).

7. Do you like to research reefs and corals and nutrients etc? Start here:
http://www.reefbase.org/resource_center/publication/main.aspx
 
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knicks791

Feeder Fish
MFK Member
Sep 22, 2009
754
0
0
yonkers ny
SantaMonica;2952341; said:
Yes, scrubbers (i.e., algae) eat ammonia/ammonium, nitrite, nitrate, phosphate, metals, and CO2, and release oxygen.
Click to expand...

Thanks Santa for this thread, just to be clear, with this set up there is no need for biological media and all that is need in addition to a scrubber is mechanic filtering?

I might have skipped over this but has any one with big cichlids tried this scrubber with their tanks and what was the results?
 
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