SantaMonica;2354588; said:.
Many folks have been asking about the solar setup. Well that fellow is the success story of the day. "Bob the (reef)builder" on the MASA site originally set up this screen that I posted a few weeks ago:
Here are his updates:
9/21: Thank you for the input Santa monica, I will definately be doing this on an expanded basis. I think I will put a three ft tank in the sun and do what you've got on a slightly larger scale. Great simple fix to an ongoing problem by most aquarists.
9/28: The film is plastic and gets wet totally. Its 1m x 1m in size. The water input is also the stand. The strands run diagnally which makes the water flow very nicely. I'm happy with it and will let it stand in the sun. Hopefully get rid of the hair algae problem I have. You should see my actual tank to know why I jumped at this idea. The construction is so easy though. And if it works a quarter as well as Santa says it does, it will be like Christmas.
10/19: I changed this one as the upright design did not get enought sun. I put it on a 45degree angle and that was better:
10/25: It worked like a bomb. Phosphates down to 0.02 - 0.01 ppm (this is on a hanna meter and is very low). Normal test would just read undetectable. [Previously] the best I ever got it to trying every trick in the book including Zeo and Vodka, Lanthinum and many other phosphate removers was 0.03.
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)You can alway add a ball valve. I'd do it anyways, because it's useful to fine tune any sideways spraying out of the pipe
That screen/tank is from a guy in S. America. He has not reported details yet on appearance, just test readings. He did however say he built the screen because of a large nuisance algae outbreak. It is a reef tank.
I don't think anything will get on the screen. The flow is too high. If anything, pods are washed off the screen into your water. I don't recommend any mechanical filters at all because of this.
Well unfortunately this is on the drain from my tank into my sump, so if I restrict the flow, the tank water level will rise until my sump runs dry and starves the pump. It works quite well with this flow rate. A Ball valve would be nice for cleaning though, I might get one anyway.SantaMonica;2359495; said:
Surprisingly enough, stuff does wind up on the screen, and stuck trying to get out between the slot and the screen. This is a F/W setup remember: No Pods - I'd rather run my water through some kind of mech filter to sift out the uneaten food particles that tend to cloud the water.SantaMonica;2359495; said:
Thanks! I decided to stick with one light to start out, mostly because the bulb cost me $15. If it works well for nitrates and I can work out the noise issue, I'll fab another light bracket and wire them together into a timer.SantaMonica;2359495; said:
cvermeulen;2359078; said:Finally found the camera. Damn kids....
With my design you can see there is an overflow path if the slot backs up - this is because this is on the drain line from my tank into my sump. I'm not 100% happy with the fact that this is PRE-Mechanical filtration, so crap and corruption winds up on my screen. I'm trying to think of a pre-filter that will fit on my overflow, and/or a way to move this to the return to tank without having my tank lit all night. I'll just see if it works first.
I was pretty proud of myself when I thought of the spring clips (for holding flashlights and garden tools) to hold the piping in place. This way I can just undo the coupling where the hose joins the hard plumbing, and pull the whole unit out for cleaning. (yes I'm easily pleased
It's only a 23W CF bulb. It looks like it's brighter than the sun, but it's only ever warm to the touch, not hot.Potts050;2359788; said:
