NO, there is no functional difference that you can factually represent between a 5 minute light cycle, and a 24 hour light cycle, provided the same amount of light reaches the screen on average [...] You're suggesting you would rotate the screens between lights AND turn them off for 8 hours at night, when nobody mentioned this - any rational person would leave the lights on 24/7 if the screens were already rotating from lamp to dark and back [...] And you still have not provided any factual evidence that a 24 hour constant running light is not equally effective, or even more effective, than a cycling light. (although other people have made reasonable points supporting this to some extent.)
I was combining the rotating screens with an on-off-on control of the light. If you are just rotating screens past a 24 hour light, then I have not given that any thought (way too complex to DIY). As for information on photoperiods in general, the 18/6 guideline was taken from Dynamic Aquaria, and the 3/1 X 6 guideline was from a research pdf that I have since lost track of. Plenty is available at Jphycol.org and maybe also at AlgaeBase.org. I however am not concerned with research; just what works for most people. 18/6 is proven, and I myself run 3/1 X 6. The research has already been done, and I just have to explain to people the minimal things they need to know to make sure their scrubber works. And this is all in the FAQ.
What do you mean by "just attach the lights to the outside of the glass."? Run 8" floresents horizontally, outside the glass, MID tank level? or above?
Yes, on the outside of the tank, preferably a tall tank, where the sides are closer to the screen. And the more light power you can put on the outside, the stronger it will filter. The lights should go as high and low as the screen goes.
I can definitely see the utility of this for a SW setup, but in a FW setup, what benefits does an algae scrubber offer over a planted sump with emersed plants?
With the people that have done it so far, the advantage has been that the planted setup by itself did not eliminate nuisance algae. Adding a scrubber, did.
but in freshwater ecosystem emersed plants seem to predominate.
If you mean FW vs SW tanks, it's because I only posted on SW forums to start with.
I found this quote from Drs F&S site: << For best results, give your scrubber 18-24 hours of light daily. This extended photoperiod allows the macroalgae ample time to convert carbon dioxide into oxygen. If dark periods are too long, macroalgae uses most of the available oxygen and releases excess carbon dioxide, resulting in a pH decline >>
I was not aware DF&S wrote anything about scrubbers. I can't agree with 24 hours though, because countless people have tried it, and ended up burning the algae (turns it rubbery yellow). When they went to 18 hours, the growth went green, and filtering went back up.
algae can readily use ammonia/ammonium without altering it, but in order to use nitrate they must use nitrate reductase and its cofactors Fe and Co. So, these elements could conceivably affect a scrubber's ability to remove nitrate.
My understanding is that ammonia/ammonium is basically non-existent in a tank, and thus algae pretty much live on N and P. Many people, however, have run scrubbers in cycling tanks and reported no nutrient spikes at all (A, N or P).
Does all this mean that adding iron and micronutrients to your tank will improve your scrubber's efficacy?
I and 20 or 30 others have experimented adding Iron and everything else, with no differences noticed. Mudshark says he found a difference, but he might still be experimenting.