Silicone and bracing failure

805hd

Feeder Fish
MFK Member
Jan 5, 2025
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Hey everyone, glad to be here and thanks for having me!

I apologize for the length of the post but feel the backstory is important.

Back story - Acquired a 170-gallon rimless tank from a friend the tank is 1/2'' glass at 72'' x 18'' x 30'' I know that's a tall tank to only be 1/2" glass but, overall everything seemed to be in good shape. Some of the bracing at the top was sub par. Definitely a mixture of different owners gluing in different pieces of glass over the years for whatever reasons. The guy I got the tank from is a friend and I had seen the tank full of water and fish multiple times with no issues so I wasn't worried about it.

The plan was to give the tank a face lift which included new glass bracing at the top of the tank. A traditional style euro-brace was out of the question as it would limit access to the plumbing behind the weir. So I came up with some top mounted 3/8 glass that framed each side but left the middle of the tank open (see picture 1&2) which would later prove to be a big mistake. Fast forward and we were ready for water.

The tank was full of water for a little over 24 hours when I heard the most terrifying sound come from the fish room. A huge thud! Upon further inspection I saw that the silicone holding the center glass braces running from the front to back panels had let go moving over a 1/2 inch (pictures 2 and 3). Amazing that glass didn't give with that much movement like that. After changing my shorts to a non soiled pair I began to drain water and that brings us to where we are now. How to go about fixing the issue?

1. The strips of glass that let go were only 4 inches wide. Very minimal surface area for the silicone to grab onto.
2. Working with shear strength instead of tensile strength.
3. Open area in the middle with no bracing prone to flexing.

New plan - Going to ditch the Kraken brand silicone and go with Momentive RTV108 much higher tensile and shear rating. Widen the glass strips from 4 inch to 10 inch, yes it will limit access to the weir but wont block it completely. More surface area, more silicone, more holding power. This will also close the gap in the center to about 8 inches. Can also consider adding glass to the inside to add tensile strength and close that seam so to speak

Rtv108
tensile 400psi
shear 200psi

10''x.5 = 5 sq in
5 sq in x 200 = 1000 lbs of holding power without factoring anything else in. Substantial gain over the original which came in around 200 lbs

Does this make sense or am I way over thinking things?

Open to all suggestions!

I've got way too much time and effort into this build, defeat is not an option!

ugly tank.jpg

tank 1.jpg

broken tank.jpeg

back break.jpg

beauty1.jpeg

beauty2.jpeg

beauty3.jpeg
 

M1A1

Piranha
MFK Member
Jun 10, 2013
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MN
The gap in the current braces is putting an enormous amount of stress on those front-back strips as you found out. A single brace across the entire front of the tank underneath your existing 4" strips would be my first suggestion before going to 10" front-back strips. That would involve laminating the glass so you'll lose a bunch of light/visibility. There are other options with the pieces you already have but you need to close that gap in the front somehow.

You already addressed the silicone issue so I won't bother piling on you for that. Just... wtf is Kraken. That stuff pulled clean off your glass.
 

805hd

Feeder Fish
MFK Member
Jan 5, 2025
6
3
3
35
The gap in the current braces is putting an enormous amount of stress on those front-back strips as you found out. A single brace across the entire front of the tank underneath your existing 4" strips would be my first suggestion before going to 10" front-back strips. That would involve laminating the glass so you'll lose a bunch of light/visibility. There are other options with the pieces you already have but you need to close that gap in the front somehow.

You already addressed the silicone issue so I won't bother piling on you for that. Just... wtf is Kraken. That stuff pulled clean off your glass.
HAHA the brand is kraken, its aquarium silicone. I think its intended more for sealing than anything structural. Apparently kraken ain't craickin eh?

I understand your suggestion, and ideally a full length runner inside the tank front and back would be the way to go. But what about two separate pieces running inside front and back with a gap for the weir and wider center braces on top? Its a little backwards but I feel like it would work out. Thats a lot of glass and a lot of silicone!

Something along these lines?

NEW PLAN1.jpg
 

phreeflow

Goliath Tigerfish
MFK Member
Nov 19, 2007
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Just bumping this up for the op, as I recommended this forum to them on another site: I believe it was wednesday13 that helps with tank repair, though I don't know if it is just acrylic-specific. I'm not sure how to tag them properly, so hopefully the link works below for the op.

Wednesday13 said his expertise is mostly acrylic but I’m sure he knows glass better than many of us. Seems M M1A1 and Backfromthedead Backfromthedead really know their stuff when it comes to glass tanks
 
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Backfromthedead

Potamotrygon
MFK Member
Jul 12, 2017
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Unfortunately i cannot recommend a good solution for your tank as i believe the 1/2" glass is too thin for 72" length x30" height.

Yes ive heard all the excuses..."look at my glass calculator" or "its tempered glass". I dont care. My position is the glass bows, maybe not all at first, but surely and slightly outwards from the force of 30" water level, which eventually and inevitably leads to problems with the silicone. A glass tank should NEVER deflect outwards on ANY panel no matter what anyone tells you. Ive personally inspected multiple 220g 72x24x30 marineland and other similar glass tanks with 1/2" panels that fail on the vertical side seams after a few years of use. Theyre just not built to last imo. Im sure there are exceptions so please dont bombard me defending your tempered tank. These are simply my personal standards.

So im only gonna recommend any repairs that would involve reconfiguring the overflow and lowering the water level to 24", 135g tank. I dont want to be liable for a flooded house. This will also make access to the overflow more manageable once you install a full perimeter eurobrace:

Like M M1A1 said you would need full length horizontal braces on the front and back panels at the very minimum in addition to the cross braces. I would prefer to cut the long pieces the full length of the tank (72") and stack them on top of the side panels, and then "hang" the crossbraces under the horizontal brace.

A better idea imo:

I believe you can find 72x18 plastic top frames online. Lower the water level and reconfigure the overflow box to 24" like i said before and just install one of these. Much easier and much better access to the tank.

The 6" air gap at the top wont be all bad, you can get creative with plants and hanging scape for a paludarium vibe.
 
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805hd

Feeder Fish
MFK Member
Jan 5, 2025
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Backfromthedead Backfromthedead I get it. It’s unfortunate news but it might be the reality. Why would someone make this tank at 1/2 glass though? If I recall correctly the safety factor is at a 2.
 
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Backfromthedead

Potamotrygon
MFK Member
Jul 12, 2017
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Backfromthedead Backfromthedead I get it. It’s unfortunate news but it might be the reality. Why would someone make this tank at 1/2 glass though? If I recall correctly the safety factor is at a 2.
2 too low!

Why do businesses do anything? Thats right! $$$$$$$

5/8" and 3/4" glass has become prohibitively expensive in recent decades. The big box brands can mass produce much easier in 1/2" tempered, claim its "safe enough" based on whatever anecdotal evidence, then cover it all with a warranty much easier and cheaper than procuring and building with thicker glass.

Its really not that bad imo. That top frame i posted above is your ticket. Eurobraces arent the best for 18" wide tanks anyway since they constrict the top so much, not to mention more money and work. The tank will be solid for years at 24" water level if you install it correctly, and the 6" gap could actually be kinda neat with plants or driftwood. The only thing that could hold you back is if your tank has some slightly off dimensions--note that the inside of the frame is 18.5" wide and 72.25" long.
 
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805hd

Feeder Fish
MFK Member
Jan 5, 2025
6
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Backfromthedead Backfromthedead you’re telling me that plastic frame is gonna do more than my glass bracing or a traditional euro brace?!

it’s just crazy, I’ve seen this tank full of water dozens of times. I guess you guys are basically saying it’s just a matter of time.

since I already have the glass maybe using it and dropping the water line to 24” would be the way to go. I don’t know, now I’m all over the place

Bummer dude….
 
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