I am interested on what he used to line the whole tank and how did he manage to keep the glass sealed with all that commotion. I have been wanting to construct something massive like this but i have no idea how to seal the glass to cement or glass to wood with no leaks.
Thinking About Constructing a Monster Aquarium Yourself?
- Thread starter Anythingfish
- Start date
Would be a great article. I've visited your site many times and you have some truely amazing fish, I really like the additions of the arapaima, paroons, and larger barbs in the outdoor tank. Ultimately I'm shooting for something around 3000 gallons incorporated into my home and something that "flows" with the room. Right now plans are something around a 12x12 square thats probably between 3 and 4 feet deep although only 2ft of that depth would be above ground level. Tile or Marble bottom and sides that matches the tile or marble in that room and set just inside the entry hall of my home. Large sump setup probably a mini indoor pond if you will hidden away somehow and in the neighborhood of 500 gallons with 2 large waterfalls pouring back into the pond for added aeration on top of the aeration and heat that would already be incorporated into the sump.
As far as fish go: 2 Tigrinus, 1 Juruense, 1 Planiceps, 1 Tiger Shovelnose, 1 Lima Shovelnose, 1 Tiger Ray, 2 Pearl Rays, 1 Flower Ray, 1 Leopoldi Ray ideally and any Peacock Bass I have that are to large for my 240 at the time which by the time the pond is constructed will probably be around 3-4 various specie of cichla
~Trent
As far as fish go: 2 Tigrinus, 1 Juruense, 1 Planiceps, 1 Tiger Shovelnose, 1 Lima Shovelnose, 1 Tiger Ray, 2 Pearl Rays, 1 Flower Ray, 1 Leopoldi Ray ideally and any Peacock Bass I have that are to large for my 240 at the time which by the time the pond is constructed will probably be around 3-4 various specie of cichla
~Trent
I have yet to write a detailed account of how to construct huge aquariums for monster fish; however, I will offer a few suggestions at this time. Later I will provide detailed specifics on how to construct very large inexpensive aquariums.
For those of you just thinking about building something large and wondering if you have what it takes; fear not, almost anyone can build a big tank that will hold water. Some other designs will look better than yours will, they may reflect the professional skills possessed by the builder but if it holds water and leaks very little or none at all you are in business. If you are wondering about the if-you-can-do-it part construct it in the garage, then if it leaks the small amount of water will go down the drain. In most cases, small leaks will stop by themselves as they chink up with fish food and debris.
Those of you thinking of a glass window should be able to get some idea as to thickness using a Glass Thickness Calculator which I put together from reasonably reliable formula found in books and on the web. Be advised this is only a guide and I make no warranties as to its accuracy. Unfortunately, I do not have a similar calculator for Lucite and Cell Cast Acrylic aquarium windows. If you know of one please post it here for all to see.
http://anythingfish.com/Aquarium_glass_thickness_calculator.htm
If you are looking for a source of Epoxy material to paint over plywood and other materials, try:
Tap Plastics: http://www.tapplastics.com/shop/category.php?bid=2&
West Systems: http://www.westsystem.com/
Aquatic Eco Systems: http://www.aquaticecosystems.com/
Fiberglass is also acceptable as a plywood sealant but it is not a strong as Epoxy and requires both a laminating and a finish coat. This material is more readily available and less expensive than Epoxy at the above-mentioned locations.
Which is the best construction method for a monster aquarium? Would you choose concrete block or reinforced concrete, perhaps plywood painted or plywood with a liner or plastic or glass or just a big hole in the ground with a pond liner?
If you already have figured out how you are going to proceed, it is because you have specific skills in one of these disciplines or access to someone with them. In my opinion, there is no one best answer just many options depending on your requirements and budget.
The Monsterfishkeepers site has many very detailed accounts of how to build various do-it-your-self aquariums. My specialty is plywood.
Within a certain size range Plywood with a silver truck tarp liner may be the most cost effective. The tarp has perhaps a 3-4 year life, with the more expensive EPDM liner you might get 20 years. For example, you could build a 12 by 12 by 4 high 4,000-gallon plywood aquarium with an EPDM liner for about $2,000. If you went 16 by 12 by 6 high, you would end up with an 8,000-gallon aquarium for about $3,000. OH! Moreover, this price includes a large Cell Cast Acrylic window. I seal my glass and acrylic windows with GE Silicone, $5.40 a tube at Home Depot.
To calculate the size of your aquarium multiply in feet the length times the width times the height then multiply that answer by 7.5 (actually 7.48). There are approximately 7.5 gallons of water in a cubic foot. If you are measuring in inches, then multiply length by width by height (in inches) and then divide the answer by 231. There are 231 cubic inches in a gallon of water.
The outdoor tank in the picture has 2 of foam insulation over the top and a tarp covering the entire tank. Plumbing, filter, pumps heat and lights will add to the cost. My 3500 gallon outside aquarium pictured below has no window, one light, and a bead filter borrowed from my koi pond for the winter. It takes on average 500 watts of continuous heat to hold 74-75 degrees with an ambient temperature of 40 degrees and another 500 watts when the wind blows or the temperature gets down to freezing. When I do a partial water change, I run water out of the hot water tank.
Fish in 3500 gallon on moving day.
A Filtration system in reality is any system that works for you. Mechanical filters are better suited for removing particulates, biological filters house bacteria, which consume fish waste such as Ammonia (NH3) and convert it into Nitrites (NO2), which like Ammonia is also harmful to your fish. Fortunately other bacteria consume the Nitrites (NO2) and convert it into nearly harmless Nitrates, (NO3) or fertilizer. In reality, both kinds of filters perform both functions however; a clogged mechanical filter is not a good environment for Ammonia eating bacteria. My bead filter performs both tasks quite well, however with my big fish load, about 350 pounds, I must back wash the filter every 48 hours or it becomes clogged and the biological activity begins to decline.
Filters should be easy to access and maintain with a good system for draining and flushing. The water flow in my tank is 3500 GPH or about 1 turnover per hour. I can do this through my bead filter with one Performance Pro ¼ HP external pump drawing about 330 watts.
When I move my big fish, I get many friends to help. I have a large 30 diameter rubber web catch-and-release type net. One or more people get in with the fish with the water level down to 2 feet. The net containing the fish goes to a runner who heads for the new tank. The only problem fish was the Alligator Gar which chewed his way through the web in seconds and hit the ground en route. He was eating in his new tank within the hour. The four-foot Arapaima is reportedly very difficult to move but he came along peaceably and took food almost immediately.
People often ask where I get all my fish and I must say they come from everywhere. Sometimes it is aquarium maintenance people looking to replace the bigger fish with something smaller. Some pet shops have given me Pacu, Golden Sharks, Redtail Catfish and assorted others too large to sell retail. People find out that I adopt fish and they bring them to me from up to 100 miles away. Someone sent me an add running on Craigs list: Wanted Good Home for large Pacu. I have that Fish.
All fish in my 3,500-gallon tank eat floating or sinking trout chow. I feed 10 pounds of hot dogs at a time one day a week. If I get a deal on fish bellies or even shrimp on the edge of the pull date they get that as well. They eat lettuce, nuts, and fruit.
More Later.
For those of you just thinking about building something large and wondering if you have what it takes; fear not, almost anyone can build a big tank that will hold water. Some other designs will look better than yours will, they may reflect the professional skills possessed by the builder but if it holds water and leaks very little or none at all you are in business. If you are wondering about the if-you-can-do-it part construct it in the garage, then if it leaks the small amount of water will go down the drain. In most cases, small leaks will stop by themselves as they chink up with fish food and debris.
Those of you thinking of a glass window should be able to get some idea as to thickness using a Glass Thickness Calculator which I put together from reasonably reliable formula found in books and on the web. Be advised this is only a guide and I make no warranties as to its accuracy. Unfortunately, I do not have a similar calculator for Lucite and Cell Cast Acrylic aquarium windows. If you know of one please post it here for all to see.
http://anythingfish.com/Aquarium_glass_thickness_calculator.htm
If you are looking for a source of Epoxy material to paint over plywood and other materials, try:
Tap Plastics: http://www.tapplastics.com/shop/category.php?bid=2&
West Systems: http://www.westsystem.com/
Aquatic Eco Systems: http://www.aquaticecosystems.com/
Fiberglass is also acceptable as a plywood sealant but it is not a strong as Epoxy and requires both a laminating and a finish coat. This material is more readily available and less expensive than Epoxy at the above-mentioned locations.
Which is the best construction method for a monster aquarium? Would you choose concrete block or reinforced concrete, perhaps plywood painted or plywood with a liner or plastic or glass or just a big hole in the ground with a pond liner?
If you already have figured out how you are going to proceed, it is because you have specific skills in one of these disciplines or access to someone with them. In my opinion, there is no one best answer just many options depending on your requirements and budget.
The Monsterfishkeepers site has many very detailed accounts of how to build various do-it-your-self aquariums. My specialty is plywood.
Within a certain size range Plywood with a silver truck tarp liner may be the most cost effective. The tarp has perhaps a 3-4 year life, with the more expensive EPDM liner you might get 20 years. For example, you could build a 12 by 12 by 4 high 4,000-gallon plywood aquarium with an EPDM liner for about $2,000. If you went 16 by 12 by 6 high, you would end up with an 8,000-gallon aquarium for about $3,000. OH! Moreover, this price includes a large Cell Cast Acrylic window. I seal my glass and acrylic windows with GE Silicone, $5.40 a tube at Home Depot.
To calculate the size of your aquarium multiply in feet the length times the width times the height then multiply that answer by 7.5 (actually 7.48). There are approximately 7.5 gallons of water in a cubic foot. If you are measuring in inches, then multiply length by width by height (in inches) and then divide the answer by 231. There are 231 cubic inches in a gallon of water.
The outdoor tank in the picture has 2 of foam insulation over the top and a tarp covering the entire tank. Plumbing, filter, pumps heat and lights will add to the cost. My 3500 gallon outside aquarium pictured below has no window, one light, and a bead filter borrowed from my koi pond for the winter. It takes on average 500 watts of continuous heat to hold 74-75 degrees with an ambient temperature of 40 degrees and another 500 watts when the wind blows or the temperature gets down to freezing. When I do a partial water change, I run water out of the hot water tank.
Fish in 3500 gallon on moving day.
A Filtration system in reality is any system that works for you. Mechanical filters are better suited for removing particulates, biological filters house bacteria, which consume fish waste such as Ammonia (NH3) and convert it into Nitrites (NO2), which like Ammonia is also harmful to your fish. Fortunately other bacteria consume the Nitrites (NO2) and convert it into nearly harmless Nitrates, (NO3) or fertilizer. In reality, both kinds of filters perform both functions however; a clogged mechanical filter is not a good environment for Ammonia eating bacteria. My bead filter performs both tasks quite well, however with my big fish load, about 350 pounds, I must back wash the filter every 48 hours or it becomes clogged and the biological activity begins to decline.
Filters should be easy to access and maintain with a good system for draining and flushing. The water flow in my tank is 3500 GPH or about 1 turnover per hour. I can do this through my bead filter with one Performance Pro ¼ HP external pump drawing about 330 watts.
When I move my big fish, I get many friends to help. I have a large 30 diameter rubber web catch-and-release type net. One or more people get in with the fish with the water level down to 2 feet. The net containing the fish goes to a runner who heads for the new tank. The only problem fish was the Alligator Gar which chewed his way through the web in seconds and hit the ground en route. He was eating in his new tank within the hour. The four-foot Arapaima is reportedly very difficult to move but he came along peaceably and took food almost immediately.
People often ask where I get all my fish and I must say they come from everywhere. Sometimes it is aquarium maintenance people looking to replace the bigger fish with something smaller. Some pet shops have given me Pacu, Golden Sharks, Redtail Catfish and assorted others too large to sell retail. People find out that I adopt fish and they bring them to me from up to 100 miles away. Someone sent me an add running on Craigs list: Wanted Good Home for large Pacu. I have that Fish.
All fish in my 3,500-gallon tank eat floating or sinking trout chow. I feed 10 pounds of hot dogs at a time one day a week. If I get a deal on fish bellies or even shrimp on the edge of the pull date they get that as well. They eat lettuce, nuts, and fruit.
More Later.
Ive noticed that big DIY projects tend to scare most people. This site seems to be one of the better ones when it comes to a gathering of folks who arent afraid to build big DIY tanks. I got tired of hearing "It cant be done" or " your better off buying it" and settling for less, it's good to hear from others with similar ideas here. I have a lot of big acrylic panels now and am planning a plywood tank with two 10FT panels probably 3FT wide and 3FT tall. Probably 2 layers of 3/4 baltic burch, with a 4X4 exoskeleton. Thinking of framing the viewing window like this http://www.jonolavsakvarium.com/eng_diy/2200litre/2200litres.html to provide a 2 plane sealing area along the edges and against the face to prevent the pressure from pushing out the sealant. Fiberglass/epoxy requires a lot of prep work, have been looking closely at Sanitred and am seriously considering it.
Jovial;739800; said:
That is the right attitude! Now, I just need to find a successful DIY project that filter solids out of the tank before planning; only if everyone I talked to isn't a negative ninny about it.
If you havn't already, take a look at Teds website.
http://www.anythingfish.com/
He's got loads of great stuff on there, including how he built his emergency "pond"!
http://www.anythingfish.com/
He's got loads of great stuff on there, including how he built his emergency "pond"!
Filtration Issues for Monster Aquariums:
When we talk about aquarium water filtration most are referring to water clarity. Another filtration issue is water chemistry, maintaining a healthy fish environment. Some filters designed for one type of filtration such as water clarity remove particulate or solids in suspension. The other biggie is the biological filter, which processes poisonous fish waste such as Ammonia (NH3) into relatively harmless Nitrates (NO3).
Both of these filter types actually perform both processes to some degree. A few filter types such as the under-gravel-filter can do an adequate job in both areas. There are as many filter design as there are fish keepers and virtually all work reasonably well. I do not think there is any best filter for all situations although some manufacturers appear to make that claim.
You can save money building your own filter but you may find that you are putting in more time cleaning it than expected. To service my 2,500-gallon outdoor aquarium I built a 350-gallon sump with four fiber screens preceding 50 gallons of bio-balls. I lined up the four square foot screens with progressively finer mesh. I was pleased with the water clarity and the Ammonia removal. I was not pleased giving up two hours a week, rain or shine, snow or wind, cleaning the screens with a garden hose and draining the gunk out of the bottom of the bio chamber.
I did not plan to get one but a used Aquadyne 4.4 bead filter came my way for very good price. I had to increase the water flow from 2,500 GPH to 3,500 GPG but the water is just as clear, the Ammonia is somewhere between none and none. Best, the entire filter cleaning process takes 5 minutes a week. I start with a backwash then switch to rinse, turn off the water pump and switch on the big blower attached to the bead chamber. In about a minute the debris trapped in the bio-bead media are dislodged. A little more backwashing, the final rinse and I am finished.
The filter is so important to the success of your monster aquarium that you best design it before starting your aquarium. I have skipped over many details of filtration however you can learn all about the biological process on the web.
When we talk about aquarium water filtration most are referring to water clarity. Another filtration issue is water chemistry, maintaining a healthy fish environment. Some filters designed for one type of filtration such as water clarity remove particulate or solids in suspension. The other biggie is the biological filter, which processes poisonous fish waste such as Ammonia (NH3) into relatively harmless Nitrates (NO3).
Both of these filter types actually perform both processes to some degree. A few filter types such as the under-gravel-filter can do an adequate job in both areas. There are as many filter design as there are fish keepers and virtually all work reasonably well. I do not think there is any best filter for all situations although some manufacturers appear to make that claim.
You can save money building your own filter but you may find that you are putting in more time cleaning it than expected. To service my 2,500-gallon outdoor aquarium I built a 350-gallon sump with four fiber screens preceding 50 gallons of bio-balls. I lined up the four square foot screens with progressively finer mesh. I was pleased with the water clarity and the Ammonia removal. I was not pleased giving up two hours a week, rain or shine, snow or wind, cleaning the screens with a garden hose and draining the gunk out of the bottom of the bio chamber.
I did not plan to get one but a used Aquadyne 4.4 bead filter came my way for very good price. I had to increase the water flow from 2,500 GPH to 3,500 GPG but the water is just as clear, the Ammonia is somewhere between none and none. Best, the entire filter cleaning process takes 5 minutes a week. I start with a backwash then switch to rinse, turn off the water pump and switch on the big blower attached to the bead chamber. In about a minute the debris trapped in the bio-bead media are dislodged. A little more backwashing, the final rinse and I am finished.
The filter is so important to the success of your monster aquarium that you best design it before starting your aquarium. I have skipped over many details of filtration however you can learn all about the biological process on the web.
