• We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo

Weld-on #40 and #42

Yes, those are the cut ends. The machined edges feel smooth for the most part , only on really close examination can you see some very tiny pits in the 1st photo. Will probably leave it alone then as this should give it something to bite into. I think the viscous nature of 40/42 will fill any imperfections that occured during the machining process. My main concern was any type of crazing coming from these tiny pits. The material is 2.250 thick so too thick for solvent. To make the seams, I'll be using 42 squirted into a syrenge to get rid of any bubbles then will slowly squeeze/pour it into the V joint. The gap at the bottom of the V will be about 1/8". A piece of plate glass with wax paper on the bottom to hold it in and will overfill the joint to allow for shrinkage. After it drys then hand finish, sand flush and polish.
 
jeffers said:
for doing a 400gal tank how many kits do you think i need to order for a tip and pour reseal?
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Cant go wrong with a 1 gallon kit...u could probably get away with a half gallon but it will probably end up costing the same buying the pint kits.

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I am going to be bracing the 4 inside corners of my tank with acrylic triangular rod and weldon 40. What should I use to clean the mating surfaces since its a used tank?
 
jaked1985 said:
I am going to be bracing the 4 inside corners of my tank with acrylic triangular rod and weldon 40. What should I use to clean the mating surfaces since its a used tank?
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I assume your going to run the acrylic triangle in the seam up and down or kinda like it would be if there was a silicone fillet? Why not just forget the acrylic triangle and just make a fillet of the #40? it would be stronger and easier id bet.
 
Yes, up and down in the corners. One seam is split, so that is the reason. Figured it couldn't hurt to brace all 4. Just going from info I gathered from other threads
 
jaked1985 said:
I am going to be bracing the 4 inside corners of my tank with acrylic triangular rod and weldon 40. What should I use to clean the mating surfaces since its a used tank?
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I use alcohol and or nail polish remover because it evaporates. Nail polish remover is my favorite choice. Sanding the old surface is never a bad idea either. Sanding will also help with the adhesion. Take your time and clean it good, any dirt or debris left behind will be fused there forever lol....
 
jaked1985 said:
Yes, up and down in the corners. One seam is split, so that is the reason. Figured it couldn't hurt to brace all 4. Just going from info I gathered from other threads
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Nope that would work as well. All I use is some soap and water and rinse it very thoroughly. Or rubbing alcohol You could scuff the parts and the seam/corner contact surfaces with some 400 grit to get it to bite better as well.
 
I use mineral spirits followed by soap and water. Was reluctant at first but a local fabricator recommended it when I told him I had a bunch of plastic tape glue residue to remove.
 
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