• We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo

Weld-on #40 and #42

coolkeith said:
I'm not using acrylic at all. I'd be using the the weld on (or epoxy, whichever is better and/or cost effective) to seal the joints on the Polyester FRP Panels.
Click to expand...

Then you don't want to use weld on as its an acrylic bonder. Its designed for acrylic not other stuff like that.

Sent from my SPH-L710 using MonsterAquariaNetwork App
 
Aquaticfan said:
Then you don't want to use weld on as its an acrylic bonder. Its designed for acrylic not other stuff like that.

Sent from my SPH-L710 using MonsterAquariaNetwork App
Click to expand...

Weld-on 40 bonds to a lot more than just acrylic. It's a 2 part epoxy, made up of acrylic resin and a hardener. It will bond to aluminum, concrete, PVC, FRP (what I'm using), and many other things, along with Acrylics.
 
coolkeith said:
Weld-on 40 bonds to a lot more than just acrylic. It's a 2 part epoxy, made up of acrylic resin and a hardener. It will bond to aluminum, concrete, PVC, FRP (what I'm using), and many other things, along with Acrylics.
Click to expand...

It Will bond arylic to those other items yes. I guess I misunderstood you and how you'd be using it. I thought you were using it to bond the other parts to the wood snd fiberglass. My misinderstanding.

Sent from my SPH-L710 using MonsterAquariaNetwork App
 
Aquaticfan said:
It Will bond arylic to those other items yes. I guess I misunderstood you and how you'd be using it. I thought you were using it to bond the other parts to the wood snd fiberglass. My misinderstanding.

Sent from my SPH-L710 using MonsterAquariaNetwork App
Click to expand...

It will bond those items to those items also. You don't need to use acrylic with Weld-On 40. It's going to bond those things regardless if you use acrylic or not.
 
Wednesday have you seen any joints cast with #40 discolor in relation to the base material?
 
Phixer said:
Wednesday have you seen any joints cast with #40 discolor in relation to the base material?
Click to expand...

Why yes sir i have lol...i know exactly what ur talking about. I usually see discoloration like this in older tanks. Both of my 15-20yr old acrylics have "aged" in this fashion. Weld-on #40 itself yellows in tint even in the bottle especially after opening it. There is a shelf life on the product aswell in the can and this yellow color is what happens. If its already yellowish in the can it usually still dries clear unles its really really old lol...i havent experienced any problems with using the glue when its a bit yellow for strength or integrity but it is a bit unpleasant it does not stay clear forever.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using MonsterAquariaNetwork App
 
So for bonding two viewing panels end to end, this might be an issue. Wondering if any type of UV chemical could be added to slow this down. Since it is a reef tank it will be exposed to some serious UV light.
 
Fantastic thread. I have another thread going trying to figure out how to seal the leak my 480 tank. I already used #4 in the seam where it leaked which worked good but still a tiny bit of water is coming out. Now if I can find the #40 I can run a seam as suggested and hopefully be back in business. I was starting to think the tank was finished.
 
40 or 42 with the applicator gun. Either one would work better than solvent for repair or initial bonding.
 
Phixer...i dont think youll run into any problems with ur project. Since ur butting the pieces end to end youll need to buff most all of the excess 40 off anyway. Ive really only seen yellowing in the tip and pour style seams when the glue is 1/2" thick or thicker. On my same 20 yr old tanks the thin parts of the glue around the overflow box are still very clear at only 1/8" thick. I think it has everything to do with how thick the glue is.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using MonsterAquariaNetwork App
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top