4300 Gallon Plywood Build (3600+ Take 2)
- Thread starter nolapete
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Hi....
First time watching this thread....just read all of it.. ¡Congratulations!...
I remember building my tank...it took a long time...but it worth it...
Im interested in the filtartion that you are going to use....¿Are you going to use a hayward sand filter? or you are going to build all the filtration?...I can see you are going to use the blue containers....what else?....
Do you know how much time you are going to require for the weekly maintenance?...
Anyway...be careful with the pond coat...you mention that is not as strong as the epoxy paint with fiberglass....but just in case you should wear mask and gloves....¿Are you familiar with the smell of the epoxy paint? you just cant breathe....I remember the guy who helped me with the tank he never used gloves or mask....I think he was insane...
Why are you going to keep an arapaima? For how long do you think you are going to be able to keep it? Do you know a place for the little guy when outgrows you tank?....or maybe....you plan to build a larger tank after this one?
Cheers...
First time watching this thread....just read all of it.. ¡Congratulations!...
I remember building my tank...it took a long time...but it worth it...
Im interested in the filtartion that you are going to use....¿Are you going to use a hayward sand filter? or you are going to build all the filtration?...I can see you are going to use the blue containers....what else?....
Do you know how much time you are going to require for the weekly maintenance?...
Anyway...be careful with the pond coat...you mention that is not as strong as the epoxy paint with fiberglass....but just in case you should wear mask and gloves....¿Are you familiar with the smell of the epoxy paint? you just cant breathe....I remember the guy who helped me with the tank he never used gloves or mask....I think he was insane...
Why are you going to keep an arapaima? For how long do you think you are going to be able to keep it? Do you know a place for the little guy when outgrows you tank?....or maybe....you plan to build a larger tank after this one?
Cheers...
The filtration is one of my favorite parts of fishkeeping. I've always built different kinds of filters for my tanks in my many years in the hobby.
The 4 32 gallon blue containers make up one of the filter systems that I'll be using on the tank. Each pair will be gravity fed from a 2" bulkhead. Two from one end of the tank and two from the other.
Water will enter through 2" pipe that goes to almost the bottom of the container. The media for each is yet to be determined. Probably just some bio media as these containers double as settling tanks. A pump fed by water pressure will be located after the water exits the barrel and will be positioned about a foot below water level on the outside back wall of the tank. Each container has its own pump.
Each pump will deliver water to a plastic container on the back wall of the tank. Each container will have 2 12"x12" poly filters, a blue bonded pad 12"x24", activated carbon layer at least 1" deep, a foam layer, and polyester batting layer to catch particular matter. The poly filters are renewable in saltwater, so only the initial purchase is costly. The blue bonded pad is the kind used in the Danner Supreme filters. The foam will be medium porosity.
Each of pair containers will drain through a single pipe on their side of the tank, but up front with a 45 degree outlet facing the center of the tank from the corners on side of the acrylic to provide cross circulation.
Once those are up and running, two 55 gallon drum polishers with floor buffer pads of different grades and polyester batting sandwiched in between will be connected to the other two bulkheads; one on each side of the tank. The top of the 55 gallon drums will be at tank level, so they will stay fluidized even with the power off and can't overflow. The water travels from the top of the pads down to the bottom where it goes up to the pipe within the center pipe to be pumped back to the tank.
Due to spacing, I may have to rearrange where each is, but that's the first two systems.
I plan to use a modified smaller version of JohnPTC's denitrator, possibly an algae scrubber, and aquaponics in a small greenhouse on my roof to handle nitrate reduction in order to limit water changes necessary.
The heat system will feed to an RO/DI unit that fills a 55 gallon drum. I'm working out the logistics of having that water added to the tank when full and a way to overflow old water out of the tank. The RO/DI I'm looking at is 200 GPD.
Pond Coat is water-based and contains no VOCs. I'm very familiar with the smell of epoxy paint which is why I chose this product instead of a glycol-based one.
I'm working on a nature center project with a friend and will have 100K gallon pond for the arapaima after they reach 5-6 ft. My plan is to raise them to maturity and hopefully aquaculture them like they do in Peru. We are going to make a trip to Peru to see how they do it there first hand once the nature center construction is approved. I'm very well aware of how big they get and this tank was built specifically for growing juveniles to 5-6'. I had some juveniles in April, but didn't know as much as I do about them now, so was unsuccessful keeping them.
The amount of time for maintenance doesn't really matter to me. That part of keeping aquariums is like someone working in their garden. It's very relaxing and I don't see it as a chore. I'm always doing a little here and there in my tanks, so nothing is ever a big task to handle. Except when I get a little lazy about cleaning Aquaclear 110s.
I remember your build. I plan to borrow your float switch idea to work with the RO/DI 55 gallon drum.
The 4 32 gallon blue containers make up one of the filter systems that I'll be using on the tank. Each pair will be gravity fed from a 2" bulkhead. Two from one end of the tank and two from the other.
Water will enter through 2" pipe that goes to almost the bottom of the container. The media for each is yet to be determined. Probably just some bio media as these containers double as settling tanks. A pump fed by water pressure will be located after the water exits the barrel and will be positioned about a foot below water level on the outside back wall of the tank. Each container has its own pump.
Each pump will deliver water to a plastic container on the back wall of the tank. Each container will have 2 12"x12" poly filters, a blue bonded pad 12"x24", activated carbon layer at least 1" deep, a foam layer, and polyester batting layer to catch particular matter. The poly filters are renewable in saltwater, so only the initial purchase is costly. The blue bonded pad is the kind used in the Danner Supreme filters. The foam will be medium porosity.
Each of pair containers will drain through a single pipe on their side of the tank, but up front with a 45 degree outlet facing the center of the tank from the corners on side of the acrylic to provide cross circulation.
Once those are up and running, two 55 gallon drum polishers with floor buffer pads of different grades and polyester batting sandwiched in between will be connected to the other two bulkheads; one on each side of the tank. The top of the 55 gallon drums will be at tank level, so they will stay fluidized even with the power off and can't overflow. The water travels from the top of the pads down to the bottom where it goes up to the pipe within the center pipe to be pumped back to the tank.
Due to spacing, I may have to rearrange where each is, but that's the first two systems.
I plan to use a modified smaller version of JohnPTC's denitrator, possibly an algae scrubber, and aquaponics in a small greenhouse on my roof to handle nitrate reduction in order to limit water changes necessary.
The heat system will feed to an RO/DI unit that fills a 55 gallon drum. I'm working out the logistics of having that water added to the tank when full and a way to overflow old water out of the tank. The RO/DI I'm looking at is 200 GPD.
Pond Coat is water-based and contains no VOCs. I'm very familiar with the smell of epoxy paint which is why I chose this product instead of a glycol-based one.
I'm working on a nature center project with a friend and will have 100K gallon pond for the arapaima after they reach 5-6 ft. My plan is to raise them to maturity and hopefully aquaculture them like they do in Peru. We are going to make a trip to Peru to see how they do it there first hand once the nature center construction is approved. I'm very well aware of how big they get and this tank was built specifically for growing juveniles to 5-6'. I had some juveniles in April, but didn't know as much as I do about them now, so was unsuccessful keeping them.
The amount of time for maintenance doesn't really matter to me. That part of keeping aquariums is like someone working in their garden. It's very relaxing and I don't see it as a chore. I'm always doing a little here and there in my tanks, so nothing is ever a big task to handle. Except when I get a little lazy about cleaning Aquaclear 110s.
I remember your build. I plan to borrow your float switch idea to work with the RO/DI 55 gallon drum.
"The 4 32 gallon blue containers make up one of the filter systems that I'll be using on the tank. Each pair will be gravity fed from a 2" bulkhead. Two from one end of the tank and two from the other.
Water will enter through 2" pipe that goes to almost the bottom of the container. The media for each is yet to be determined. Probably just some bio media as these containers double as settling tanks. A pump fed by water pressure will be located after the water exits the barrel and will be positioned about a foot below water level on the outside back wall of the tank. Each container has its own pump."
-So what you are saying if I understood correctly is that the holes of the 2" bulkheads are going to be on the top of the tank?
-The blue containers are going to be on the floor or a foot below the water level like the pumps? so you have to calculate the water fed by gravity to the containers so you can choose the proper pump...if you use too much hp the pump is going to suck air...?
"Each pump will deliver water to a plastic container on the back wall of the tank. Each container will have 2 12"x12" poly filters, a blue bonded pad 12"x24", activated carbon layer at least 1" deep, a foam layer, and polyester batting layer to catch particular matter. The poly filters are renewable in saltwater, so only the initial purchase is costly. The blue bonded pad is the kind used in the Danner Supreme filters. The foam will be medium porosity.
Each of pair containers will drain through a single pipe on their side of the tank, but up front with a 45 degree outlet facing the center of the tank from the corners on side of the acrylic to provide cross circulation."
-The containers are open?....and are going to be on the floor or also a foot below the water...or on a higher level? so the water returns to the tank by gravity like a cascade?.....if the containers are on the floor you need more pumps to return the water to the tank....?
When its done it is going to be interesting if you explain everything with some images.....
Anyway...What people do in Peru with the arapaimas?...they breed them to sell the meat?
The nature center project is going to be like a biology museum or a public aquarium?
Sorry fo the last questions.....I just want to understand what is all about....
Thanks...
Water will enter through 2" pipe that goes to almost the bottom of the container. The media for each is yet to be determined. Probably just some bio media as these containers double as settling tanks. A pump fed by water pressure will be located after the water exits the barrel and will be positioned about a foot below water level on the outside back wall of the tank. Each container has its own pump."
-So what you are saying if I understood correctly is that the holes of the 2" bulkheads are going to be on the top of the tank?
-The blue containers are going to be on the floor or a foot below the water level like the pumps? so you have to calculate the water fed by gravity to the containers so you can choose the proper pump...if you use too much hp the pump is going to suck air...?
"Each pump will deliver water to a plastic container on the back wall of the tank. Each container will have 2 12"x12" poly filters, a blue bonded pad 12"x24", activated carbon layer at least 1" deep, a foam layer, and polyester batting layer to catch particular matter. The poly filters are renewable in saltwater, so only the initial purchase is costly. The blue bonded pad is the kind used in the Danner Supreme filters. The foam will be medium porosity.
Each of pair containers will drain through a single pipe on their side of the tank, but up front with a 45 degree outlet facing the center of the tank from the corners on side of the acrylic to provide cross circulation."
-The containers are open?....and are going to be on the floor or also a foot below the water...or on a higher level? so the water returns to the tank by gravity like a cascade?.....if the containers are on the floor you need more pumps to return the water to the tank....?
When its done it is going to be interesting if you explain everything with some images.....
Anyway...What people do in Peru with the arapaimas?...they breed them to sell the meat?
The nature center project is going to be like a biology museum or a public aquarium?
Sorry fo the last questions.....I just want to understand what is all about....
Thanks...
The containers are sealed. Closed loop just like regular canister filters.
I haven't decided on the positioning of the bulkheads yet. I'm leaning towards midlevel and bottom.
It's more fluid dynamics than gravity fed. The level in the tank equalizes with the level in the canister and hose and because the pump is below the tank level it is always having water supplied to it. There's no way for air to enter the loop from the tank to the pump.
First sentence about the containers "on the back wall of the tank." Not on the floor. They will be covered.
Arapaima are food fish and are quite tasty from what I've been told. That's why they are on the CITES II list. No wild fish can be taken and every fish exported has to have a certificate stating that it is captive bred.
Until the nature center is approved, I can't discuss specifics. I can assure you it will be something to make MFKers want to visit it though.
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Received some bad news. With the cold weather, the Pond Coat has to be delivered in a heated truck which nearly triples the $125 shipping normal shipping cost. Not something I can justisfy. She's going to see what alternative carriers will charge, but I may have to wait until the weather warms up a bit.
I haven't decided on the positioning of the bulkheads yet. I'm leaning towards midlevel and bottom.
It's more fluid dynamics than gravity fed. The level in the tank equalizes with the level in the canister and hose and because the pump is below the tank level it is always having water supplied to it. There's no way for air to enter the loop from the tank to the pump.
First sentence about the containers "on the back wall of the tank." Not on the floor. They will be covered.
Arapaima are food fish and are quite tasty from what I've been told. That's why they are on the CITES II list. No wild fish can be taken and every fish exported has to have a certificate stating that it is captive bred.
Until the nature center is approved, I can't discuss specifics. I can assure you it will be something to make MFKers want to visit it though.
-----
Received some bad news. With the cold weather, the Pond Coat has to be delivered in a heated truck which nearly triples the $125 shipping normal shipping cost. Not something I can justisfy. She's going to see what alternative carriers will charge, but I may have to wait until the weather warms up a bit.
Sorry to hear about the pond coat but I do want to thank you for posting the links to the bulkhead fitting and screens. I have been away from this for too many years and didn't even know they made those screens.
That's a blow with the pond coat delivery. The heart beat must be raised a little knowing you are getting closer and closer to the end with every day that passes. It will be one hell of a view to have inside your home and I like everyone else can't wait to see some finished pics.
You only have to wait for this cold spell to be over right? I assume you need a streak of 4 or 5 above freezing days? Its not like you have to wait until spring.. Or is it?
dang not another delay do to weather. smae thing was told to me on my 350G build. so I have set it aside until spring
It isn't just based on the weather here since it goes ground, so unfortunately that remains unknown.
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