building a 1000 gal concrete block monster tank

wizzin

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Oct 10, 2006
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little update. I sealed the wood frame on the concrete and water sides with 3 coats of permaflex. I love this stuff. I actually didn't believe the coverage claims, but let me tell you from experience that they are absolutely true! 16oz of permaflex covered the entire wood frame and most of one of the end walls. I wasn't going to start sealing the tank walls, but I didn't know what to do with all the leftover permaflex. Think about it. 16oz can of beer covering a 2x8 and a 2x4 and then about 20 or so square feet of concrete!!!!

The cores are filled and the bolts are embedded into the concrete. That was a little tougher than I expected. I used a screwdriver and reamed out holes in the wet concrete for the bolts/washer/nuts to sink into. Then I infilled the holes with concrete and sat the wood frame on top and weighted it down as shown.

Once the concrete cures, I'll remove the nuts, and washers and pull the wood piece up (oh yeah, I bonded the 2x4 to the 2x8 with liquid nails and tightened the nuts down) off of the sill. With the wood off, I'll smooth out the concrete work as needed, then prime the concrete with permaflex, then use a thick application of the LRB/TAV mixture and replace the wood. With the wood on the wet LRB, I'll tighten down the concrete/wood nuts to pull the wood down to the concrete and create a tight seal.

sanitred coating on side of 2x8 attached to concrete base.


Cores filled with concrete. The flooring is all coming up, and I've got 2000 square feet of vinyl wood planks to lay when the tank is done. :irked:


re-assembled and weighted down.
 

GooDyboy420

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So far loving it, caint wait for it to be done...GOoD JOB
 

Phixer

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Called up the folks at Sanitred last week. I think Im going to frame my viewing windows the same way you are using the LRB for a gasket. I like the way it can be applied at any thickness. A three sided U shaped frame would be even better because the gasket would be on all sides but after thinking about it all weekend I believe it would be more of a hassle and not really matter. Since Im using acrylic I will have to prime it first with the epoxy they recommend. I think John used Dow Corning 1205 to prime the windows on the 5000 gallon tank he made.

My place is in Colorado, the basement slab is about 4" thick. If I remember right your going to pour another slab inside the tank right? How thick will this make you foundation beneath the tank? Didnt you say at one point that you built the tank over a 36" thick footer?

At any rate, the tank is moving along good, thanks for the pics.
 

wizzin

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Oct 10, 2006
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Jovial;673440; said:
Called up the folks at Sanitred last week. I think Im going to frame my viewing windows the same way you are using the LRB for a gasket. I like the way it can be applied at any thickness. A three sided U shaped frame would be even better because the gasket would be on all sides but after thinking about it all weekend I believe it would be more of a hassle and not really matter. Since Im using acrylic I will have to prime it first with the epoxy they recommend. I think John used Dow Corning 1205 to prime the windows on the 5000 gallon tank he made.

My place is in Colorado, the basement slab is about 4" thick. If I remember right your going to pour another slab inside the tank right? How thick will this make you foundation beneath the tank? Didnt you say at one point that you built the tank over a 36" thick footer?

At any rate, the tank is moving along good, thanks for the pics.
Yes, a U would be better, but as you saidn, probably not necessary. I could do a lot of things to make it bulletproof, but I'm trying to do this on somewhat of a budget and still have it hold water. I got the apoxy from sanitred. It's $15.00 which is darn cheap for glass epoxy. You'll have to call them to order it.

The new slab is poured. Look at the photos a little closer (I also posted some pics of the slab). So I've got a new 4" slab on top of an existing at least 4" slab which is sitting on top of a 36" column footer. I also encountered a fair amount of rebar, and the existing slab was the densest concrete I've ever seen. I actually broke the milwaukee hammer drill on that concrete, and ruined 4 carbide masonary drill bits :WHOA: . In contrast, those same drill bits drilled holes in the concrete block in a few seconds with no trouble. I don't know the load capacity of my slab, but from what I encountered in drilling it, I don't have a single worry about the slab failing.
 

Kingkat

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Nov 10, 2006
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Did you consider the option of using chemsets to anchor the bolts into the bondbeam under the bottom glass frame? I realise it's too late it's just that as you said, it was hard to get the bolts down into the wet corefill whereas you could have drilled and chemset them in after the bondbeam had cured.
Cheers,
David.
 

wizzin

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Oct 10, 2006
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Kingkat;673588; said:
Did you consider the option of using chemsets to anchor the bolts into the bondbeam under the bottom glass frame? I realise it's too late it's just that as you said, it was hard to get the bolts down into the wet corefill whereas you could have drilled and chemset them in after the bondbeam had cured.
Cheers,
David.
That's an idea. Ramset? The chemsets are sort of what I used, except they're chemically bonded to the concrete. They have another bolt system though (don't recal the name) that expands when you drill it in. That is a good idea. I'd actually suggest anyone else doing this use that method. What I did should work. I made sure the bolts went all the way into the wet concrete. Using a screwdriver to ream out the holes worked pretty well. Thanks for the advice. Wish it was a little earlier. Oh well.
 
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