building a 1000 gal concrete block monster tank
- Thread starter wizzin
- Start date
Looking great.... Rememberr back when you said this would be done in like three weeks? lol just kidding, you coming along great..... Can't wait to see it in person 
LOL..just like 3M 5200 marine adheasive...wizzin;673643; said:BTW. Sanitred DOES NOT come off your hands
That shows detication! I am very impressed I would like to do a large tank but do not have the room to have one right now. can't wait to see it done!
here's an update. No pics though. Sorry. The idea was that after the concrete cured, I was going to pull up the wood frame and put a thick bead of LRB/TAV between the wood and concrete. Well, the wood won't come up. This is good and bad. It's good because I used a pry bar and a hammer and a large piece of steel to try to pry the wood up and it won't come off. I guess it's going to hold the glass pretty good It's only bad because I wanted that strong LRB seal. I can still squeeze lrb in the crack between the wood and concrete and then torque the nuts down. LRB is good at bridging cracks, so I'm sure it will be fine. I guess another good part is that I don't have to do that work.
I think it's stuck because the all-thread bolts weren't all perfectly 90 degrees through the wood. Essentially, they're wedging the wood down. Apparently the nuts/washers burried in the concrete works very well. I didn't go totally ape@#it on trying to pull it up because I didn't want to destroy the wood.
On to the side frames. The issue with them is going to be getting the washers and nuts on the inside of the cores all the way at the bottom. My arms won't reach. I've got a grabber tool that I can use, but I'm pretty much at terms with the fact that I'm probably going to loose several nuts into the depths of the cores never to be seen again. I'll post pics when theres something worth photographing.
It's only bad because I wanted that strong LRB seal. I can still squeeze lrb in the crack between the wood and concrete and then torque the nuts down. LRB is good at bridging cracks, so I'm sure it will be fine. I guess another good part is that I don't have to do that work.I think it's stuck because the all-thread bolts weren't all perfectly 90 degrees through the wood. Essentially, they're wedging the wood down. Apparently the nuts/washers burried in the concrete works very well. I didn't go totally ape@#it on trying to pull it up because I didn't want to destroy the wood.
On to the side frames. The issue with them is going to be getting the washers and nuts on the inside of the cores all the way at the bottom. My arms won't reach. I've got a grabber tool that I can use, but I'm pretty much at terms with the fact that I'm probably going to loose several nuts into the depths of the cores never to be seen again. I'll post pics when theres something worth photographing.
If the LRB is applied and then put under slight compression after it dries the risilency of it would make a good gasket seal.
When I was a jet mech I worked in some close confines. For the washers I used to get creative with safety wire and coat hangers to get them on. If you cant reach it by hand use a long extension and socket with the fastner taped to it. Use a strong light source. If its coarse thread it will be harder to cross thread at least.
When I was a jet mech I worked in some close confines. For the washers I used to get creative with safety wire and coat hangers to get them on. If you cant reach it by hand use a long extension and socket with the fastner taped to it. Use a strong light source. If its coarse thread it will be harder to cross thread at least.
Hey bro, get a cheap end wrench and hack off the open end side.wizzin;676400; said:
Hammer a piece of black iron pipe, like 1/2", the length you need,
flat on one end. Insert the handle of the wrench in the flattened pipe.
Tack weld or drill and pin to keep the wrench in the pipe...
"instant long box end wrench"
Working in cramped quarters on the boat,
we just super-glue the washer to the nut, then to the box end wrench.
Once the nut is started and then tightened up the superglue will brake loose and you just torque away...
Good luck and remember to cuss and scream....makes the nutz act right
Thanks for all the ideas on getting those nuts on down inside the cores! I think I'll use the long socket idea as I have one.
Actually, the glass is only about 30 feet from the tank, and it's on the same floor as the tank. I'm actually going to build a "cart" to transport the glass from the garage to the tank. I'll use heavy duty 360degree casters attached to a 2x4 frame and essentially wheel the glass over to the tank. Then we'll use the 3 (4) cup suction cup lifters to lift it into place. Shouldn't be too hard.
One other reason the wood fits so tight is that I actually angled the block for the side frames in on the inside of the tank. If you measure the distance between the block on the inside of the tank, it's about 1/16" longer than on the outside. Creating a wedge for the wood. In other words, it's literally impossible to push the wood out from the inside of the tank. The wood is also cut EXACTLY to fit the masonry opening.
Thank god I don't have to carry that glass down any stairs! I would loose nuts I think
Actually, the glass is only about 30 feet from the tank, and it's on the same floor as the tank. I'm actually going to build a "cart" to transport the glass from the garage to the tank. I'll use heavy duty 360degree casters attached to a 2x4 frame and essentially wheel the glass over to the tank. Then we'll use the 3 (4) cup suction cup lifters to lift it into place. Shouldn't be too hard.I'm going to use ziplock bags filled with the LRB, then one corner I'll cut open to create a 1/4" hole in the bag. Then squeeze the bag like a bakers icing bag to squeeze the LRB into the seam between the wood and concrete. Then torque the nuts down to draw the entire wood frame down to the concrete. I tightened it down last night, and I'm actually quite pleased with the fit. The frame is DEAD LEVEL!!! I'm going to install the side frames tonight come hell or high water.
One other reason the wood fits so tight is that I actually angled the block for the side frames in on the inside of the tank. If you measure the distance between the block on the inside of the tank, it's about 1/16" longer than on the outside. Creating a wedge for the wood. In other words, it's literally impossible to push the wood out from the inside of the tank. The wood is also cut EXACTLY to fit the masonry opening.
