Got a new 225 acrylic tank, have some questions
- Thread starter Dawgz
- Start date
Alright so I'm going at a slow pace with the given time I get to set this up so bare with me lol.
Have one more question. I got the tank onto the stand, it's on a (one piece) 5/8" plywood top.
I haven't filled water yet but I noticed that around the middle of the front, back, sides there is a gap between the tank and plywood. I do recall the manufacturer telling me the tank may wobble once it's in the stand but once it's filled it will settle
Is this what they mean? Or is this because the top isn't 100% true? I used a 48" level across the stand before putting the tank on it and did not encounter this gap when I was checking if it's 100% flat.
I've never had a brand new acrylic tank of this size so just double checking....
Thank you,
Have one more question. I got the tank onto the stand, it's on a (one piece) 5/8" plywood top.
I haven't filled water yet but I noticed that around the middle of the front, back, sides there is a gap between the tank and plywood. I do recall the manufacturer telling me the tank may wobble once it's in the stand but once it's filled it will settle
Is this what they mean? Or is this because the top isn't 100% true? I used a 48" level across the stand before putting the tank on it and did not encounter this gap when I was checking if it's 100% flat.
I've never had a brand new acrylic tank of this size so just double checking....
Thank you,
#1…. Don’t listen to anyone who may recommend foam or any kind of leveling matt be placed under acrylics. One of the biggest misconception in this hobby. Some manufactures recommend it even and its just nonsense. Foam and matts are for plate bottom glass tanks only. No exceptions IMO. Ive repaired tanks that were on foam and instructed many others to do so over the years also after seam failures.
#2 you did the right thing by stopping lol… again nothin outta the ordinary. Most peoples work surfaces are not level, neither is material so this happens.
#3 how to move forward. Best way to shim an acrylic tank is inbetween the plywood and the stand. Make sure to raise up the plywood so everything is flush to the seams. Not much or any worry to make sure the middle/bottom of the tank is shimmed. That part will settle. Surprisingly the rest will not tho IME. If u can, get everything flush with shims inbetween the plywood and stand under the tank. U can stick shims anywhere inbetween the tank and plywood itself also. Ill get u a pic ??. U can use an endless amt of shims if u need to. Sounds crazy. But thats the proper way. Dont shove them into the gaps hard or anything either. Snug fit, snap em off, go all the way around if needed. As stupid as the show “tanked” is… they solve this problem by actually gluing a piece of plywood to the bottom of all their acrylic tanks. Pretty sure they build them on that same sheet used on the stand also. Because again, no work surface or piece of material is ever 100% true so u have to compensate for it. I use wood and composite shims, whatever’s on hand no difference.
Hope this helps ?? and u can make out the shims, lighting in my basement is not ideal. Tanks are 450 and 500g and have been running like this over 10yrs. 1 tank is a mix of wood and composite shims… other is composite only (all black on black) so kinda hard to see. Fill in wherever u need too. My tanks were too large for me to lift alone and shim under the plywood or i would have.
Yes, my shims are between the tank and plywood… thats “worst case scenario” and works just fine. again my tanks were too large for me to lift alone after i had help getting them up there. My plywood was screwed to the stands also. If i were to go back and “do it right” id shim under the plywood and the stand. That will raise the plywood up flush with ur tank filling any gaps. If ur plywood is also screwed down u can do like i did and fill that entire middle gap with shims. I filled a good 3’ width in the middle just like ur pics. Stick em in, snap em off all the way across that gap lol… the middle of the tank will “settle” to the stand. The seams will not, thus needing the support of the shims to take the pressure off.
Thanks, I hope my questions don't come off as combative, just trying to understand so I know how I'm shimming them.
If shim the edges, what about the middle? Would the shim that is at the edge interfere with the middle area of the tank as it tries to settle.
And yes my plywood is bolted to the stand only at the sides, two bolts each side.
Not at all my man ??… all good… acrylic is soft, it bows… the important parts to prevent from moving are just the seams. As long as the seams/permitter are fully supported by plywood or shims to plywood ur good to go. The middle area of the tank will bow/settle to the stand if theres any gap with no ill effects as long as those seams cant move downward with it.
If that middle area is the only place that needs “filled in” u might b able to kinda hammer the shims under the ply if u want. Had a buddy do that up underneath the middle of his stand/braces also. I never go that far lol…
