Making my 800 gal larger.
- Thread starter TheFishGuy
- Start date
OK 
Up date #16
You can either watch this:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g-wl5cUObm4
Or read this:
First off, the Pondarmor is here! Here and under strict orders to acclimate for a day. The cans were submerged in hot water for an hour then they’ll sit until tomorrow late morning when we’ll start doing the seams! Sunday morning we’ll go over the whole thing looking for touch ups, which according to Butch we’ll have some. The bummer is I’ve got a side job to do Monday and Tuesday. So the glass won’t get put in till Wednesday…
Also, the circulating pump is here and installed for the heating system… Along with a “T” and valve put in one of the hot lines running towards the tank. This “T” will feed water through the pex tubing that will be coiled up in the sump tank which will act as a radiant heating system to keep the tank at 80*. The pump still needs to be wired and so does the temperature controller. Honestly I’m not too worried about the sump and heating system, I just want to get this thing test filled!
I also cut up 2” strips of fiberglass mat to put in over all the seams… I’m ready to start water proofing, it’s just waiting till the morning to get started by vacuuming the tank out and starting the process… Yeah. Like I’m going to get any sleep…
Up date #16
You can either watch this:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g-wl5cUObm4
Or read this:
First off, the Pondarmor is here! Here and under strict orders to acclimate for a day. The cans were submerged in hot water for an hour then they’ll sit until tomorrow late morning when we’ll start doing the seams! Sunday morning we’ll go over the whole thing looking for touch ups, which according to Butch we’ll have some. The bummer is I’ve got a side job to do Monday and Tuesday. So the glass won’t get put in till Wednesday…
Also, the circulating pump is here and installed for the heating system… Along with a “T” and valve put in one of the hot lines running towards the tank. This “T” will feed water through the pex tubing that will be coiled up in the sump tank which will act as a radiant heating system to keep the tank at 80*. The pump still needs to be wired and so does the temperature controller. Honestly I’m not too worried about the sump and heating system, I just want to get this thing test filled!
I also cut up 2” strips of fiberglass mat to put in over all the seams… I’m ready to start water proofing, it’s just waiting till the morning to get started by vacuuming the tank out and starting the process… Yeah. Like I’m going to get any sleep…
Regarding the water heater as your heat supply for the tank, have you considered adding a filter to prevent debris from getting into the circulating pump? I don't know if that could be an issue with the pump but I do know that calcium, iron & eventually, anode tube failure, will release particles. Just a thought.
I really look forward to seeing your updates. The project is really looking great.
I really look forward to seeing your updates. The project is really looking great.
I haven't considered a filter, but I might now... We do get calcium build up... not bad but some. The instructions for the pump said to not put it at the lowest point so that's part of the reason it's five feet up or so... I'll investigate the cost of a an inline filter of sorts. Do you have any suggestions? And thanks for the kind words
Just make sure it's a High Temperature rated filter housing and use a sediment cartridge in whatever micron rating your pump mfg. may have suggested, if at all. I suggested the filter because I noticed you are coming off the drain tap for the heater. I don't have any specific brands to suggest. It depends on the maximum temperature you would ever set your water heater at plus some fudge factor in case someone turned it up to max.
The water will be pumped into the water heaters drain, not coming from it... do you think that matters?
I mis-spoke when I said from the drain tap. I know you are going from the pump to the water heater. I was thinking that by feeding the water INTO the drain tap, it would stir up the water heater tank more and that might send any sediment throughout your potable hot water. That might affect not only the recirculating pump but also faucet aerators and shower heads for the rest of the home. It might be a negligible amount and is something that could be added later. I wasn't sure if the pump mfg. recommended a prefilter or not.
I just talked with my brother, a certified Ohio plumber, and got some recommendations from him. He suggests using a swing-check valve after your pump but before the water heater drain tap in case the water heater fails. Also to install a tee at the drain tap so you can still drain the heater without draining your PEX. This is normally how he hooks up an add on recirculating system. You may not need to do this if you have a ball valve after the pump.
Also, he suggested using pipe insulation on your PEX to help retain heat. Insulate the PEX before clamping to joists.
He also said that if your water heater is newer and your house plumbing is copper/PEX, just go with a whole house filter & 30 micron sediment filter element, at your incoming cold water supply from the street. That would save the cost of a High Temp. housing. But if you have galvanized mixed in, additional filtration wouldn't hurt.
HTH, Dee
I just talked with my brother, a certified Ohio plumber, and got some recommendations from him. He suggests using a swing-check valve after your pump but before the water heater drain tap in case the water heater fails. Also to install a tee at the drain tap so you can still drain the heater without draining your PEX. This is normally how he hooks up an add on recirculating system. You may not need to do this if you have a ball valve after the pump.
Also, he suggested using pipe insulation on your PEX to help retain heat. Insulate the PEX before clamping to joists.
He also said that if your water heater is newer and your house plumbing is copper/PEX, just go with a whole house filter & 30 micron sediment filter element, at your incoming cold water supply from the street. That would save the cost of a High Temp. housing. But if you have galvanized mixed in, additional filtration wouldn't hurt.
HTH, Dee
Thanks Dee, I've already got the "T" at the bottom of the water heater, and the water heater is new as of two or so weeks ago... The pump have valves on either side of it with a built in check valve. So that takes care of everything suggested besides the insulation (which I have and expect to do) and the whole house filter! Cool! My cousin is a plumber and I pretty much went with everything he suggested... I can get a filter from him pretty cheap Thanks very much for checking with your brother for me, that was cool
Good news... I got the pond armor in! Tell me what you all think of the color...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pGUVU7U-kDs
Cool! My cousin is a plumber and I pretty much went with everything he suggested... I can get a filter from him pretty cheap Thanks very much for checking with your brother for me, that was cool Good news... I got the pond armor in! Tell me what you all think of the color...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pGUVU7U-kDs
