Rivermuds Test Tank

[apayne]

Well I found this product, and it looks good to me.

http://www.advancedrubbercoatings.com/site/1584080/page/759980

Quote:
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Concrete and Wooden Water Tanks can also be lined with Liquid Rubber. Porous Concrete should first be coated with a primer. Untreated wood should first be treated with an oil base sealer. Allow rubber to cure a minimum of 1 week (at temperatures of 70ºF or higher) before adding water.

Well a quart is only $28 plus $8 shipping.
What do you think?
Aaron
[/FONT][/FONT][/FONT]

 

[Rivermud]

Well I found this product, and it looks good to me.

http://www.advancedrubbercoatings.com/site/1584080/page/759980

Quote:
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Concrete and Wooden Water Tanks can also be lined with Liquid Rubber. Porous Concrete should first be coated with a primer. Untreated wood should first be treated with an oil base sealer. Allow rubber to cure a minimum of 1 week (at temperatures of 70ºF or higher) before adding water.

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Well a quart is only $28 plus $8 shipping.
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]What do you think?[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Aaron[/FONT]
[/FONT][/FONT][/FONT][/FONT]

That's the same product mentioned by Tim and issack in the roof coatings thread. Just a different supplier. I am getting very intrigued by this product as it seems different than the Ames product I used before in that they claim to have a much thicker application.

 

[Dr Joe]

Please give your friend our condolences for his loss Rivermud.

If you put a piece of wax paper in front of the lens on your camera phone, it can be used as a substitute for an electron microscope and will give better data than an xray.

Luckily you won't have to worry about micro-fractures since this isn't being used as a surface product (and you were concerned about it soaking in too much ) With this material soaked into the wood, any fracture would be compromised by the complexity of the wood's grain.

Now this EPDM coating...

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]"Can be applied directly to primed plywood and lumber. Can be used to line fish ponds. Liquid Rubber® is also a very effective coating for steel especially where it is exposed to salt environment. A plus for S/W equipment.

Do not use over asphalt or silicone rubber caulks. Silicone rubber must first be removed and replaced with butyl rubber caulk. Fish ponds can be lined with Liquid Rubber®. The concrete must first be thoroughly cleaned and dried. If the concrete is porous it should first be primed with a primer. The EPDM rubber is safe for fish. Allow the rubber to cure a minimum of 1 week (at temperatures of 70ºF or higher) before filling.
Concrete and Wooden Water Tanks can also be lined with Liquid Rubber. Porous Concrete should first be coated with a primer. Untreated wood should first be treated with an oil base sealer. Allow rubber to cure a minimum of 1 week (at temperatures of 70ºF or higher) before adding water. [/FONT][/FONT][/FONT]

Theoretically it should only take 1.5 qts to do your 100g tank $38? Interesting.

Nest stage...

You could route the top inside edge to let a plexiglass cover fit flush, before you finish sealing it.


People are having problems with fittings leaking, like thru hull or bulkhead connectors, and bulkhead connectors aren't cheap in larger sizes. PVC fittings are used with success but you have to know what your doing as to not over tighten. For this reason many people are unwilling to drill there tanks for these fittings. Especially bottom connectors. These make sump connections so simple.

I've gone over window installation many times, but pictures always speak louder than words (Are you routing a lip around the cutout for the glass to set into?).

With a 50g box you could make a complex W/D filter to match the tank, with all the toys inside it.

Then there's the matching hood (with gas shocks to counterbalance the weight) with of course DIY lighting.

Dr Joe

.

 

[Rivermud]

Please give your friend our condolences for his loss Rivermud.

Thank you, he'll appreciate the kind thoughts. He was very excited about the aquarium. He had never even thought of a wooden tank before and was blown away by the site and the ideas. He's threatening to keep the tank.

If you put a piece of wax paper in front of the lens on your camera phone, it can be used as a substitute for an electron microscope and will give better data than an xray.

However I can show you a way to X-ray yourself using Scotch Tape.. Someone will post the link to it now that it's been mentioned.

Luckily you won't have to worry about micro-fractures since this isn't being used as a surface product (and you were concerned about it soaking in too much ) With this material soaked into the wood, any fracture would be compromised by the complexity of the wood's grain.

I'm thinking things will be pretty safe.

Now this EPDM coating...

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]"Can be applied directly to primed plywood and lumber. Can be used to line fish ponds. Liquid Rubber® is also a very effective coating for steel especially where it is exposed to salt environment. A plus for S/W equipment.

Do not use over asphalt or silicone rubber caulks. Silicone rubber must first be removed and replaced with butyl rubber caulk. Fish ponds can be lined with Liquid Rubber®. The concrete must first be thoroughly cleaned and dried. If the concrete is porous it should first be primed with a primer. The EPDM rubber is safe for fish. Allow the rubber to cure a minimum of 1 week (at temperatures of 70ºF or higher) before filling.
Concrete and Wooden Water Tanks can also be lined with Liquid Rubber. Porous Concrete should first be coated with a primer. Untreated wood should first be treated with an oil base sealer. Allow rubber to cure a minimum of 1 week (at temperatures of 70ºF or higher) before adding water. [/FONT][/FONT][/FONT]

Theoretically it should only take 1.5 qts to do your 100g tank $38? Interesting.

Nest stage...

You could route the top inside edge to let a plexiglass cover fit flush, before you finish sealing it.


People are having problems with fittings leaking, like thru hull or bulkhead connectors, and bulkhead connectors aren't cheap in larger sizes. PVC fittings are used with success but you have to know what your doing as to not over tighten. For this reason many people are unwilling to drill there tanks for these fittings. Especially bottom connectors. These make sump connections so simple.

I've gone over window installation many times, but pictures always speak louder than words (Are you routing a lip around the cutout for the glass to set into?).

With a 50g box you could make a complex W/D filter to match the tank, with all the toys inside it.

Then there's the matching hood (with gas shocks to counterbalance the weight) with of course DIY lighting.

Dr Joe
.

This is the really exciting deal. This product offers waterproofing at a very very affordable price. According to Tim in the other thread hoever it requires 2 coats for waterproofing, one for water resistance.. I'm thinking the 2 coats is just good practice. I'm interested in Tim creating his own thread on this project so that we may all learn a bit more.

It was a very good thing that we decided to debate the Elastomeric roof coverings in the other thread. We would not have this wealth of new ideas otherwise.

I'm very focused on the idea of spawning creativity. I believe a lot of the reason people like yourself and Chompers get so much respect here is that you use your mind for creative thought and educated decisions. Not all ideas succeed, but all of them are worth thinking about and even trying because they allow us to build upon the success but even more so the failure.

I'm not planning on routing the top or the frame. I had the glass cut with one inch of spare room on both sides and the top. I may however make an internal frame for the glass. The frame would be routed to fit the glass, aesthetics really.

As for the Hood, Stand, and Sump/Filtration, they will be approached with the same creative testing zest that the aquarium began with. Fire away with ideas. Speaking of Lighting though......

NEW IDEA TIME!!!! (I think I'm going to trademark that phrase )

I have seen the many new products on the market for LED spotlights in the aquarium. I know how to worked with LED's, they aren't exactly rocket science to rig up. They do not generate heat (in a sense) and as such are very solid ideas for submersible lighting. I'd like to see a DIY submersible spotlight that can be turned and adjusted to point to any spot you'd like. It would need to be mountable (suction cups maybe?), be adjustable (something like a universal turret) and easy to conceal. Yes people are freaked about electricity and water but it's not all that difficult IMHO to seal wires. I'd like to hear discussion about this to help with ideas.

 

[Rivermud]

Jgray, I realize you are trying to add your two cents here. I just have some observations. It seems you make a lot of assumptions about product usage and coverage without actually knowing the product. As an example we'll use the post directly above this.

Either way though, I don't think you are gathering the point to the tank. It's meant to either fail or work. If I wanted to go the safe route I would. Things are meant to be tested and pushed. I'll guarantee that this isn't the first tank built with an epoxie sealant, and positive it won't be the last.

 

[Dr Joe]

Ok, and now that that has been said, we come move in the direction that this thread was designed for.

 

[Rivermud]

Actually JGray, your posts are what leads this thread off topic. You are abbrasive and combative. Your posts do not offer positive feedback, rather they offer your opinion that you staunchly and zealously defend whether it is right or not. I've addressed your comments here with my opinion, we've had our discussion concerning your concerns and you've gottem my reply. At this point I consider those points made and it's time to move on.

Please refrain from beating a dead horse. The personal attacks, issues, and bias are taking this thread away from it's entended course. Discussion and debate are only positive when used in a constructive manner.

I'd like for a mod to please delete the previous inflmatory posts from all persons involved so that we can get this thread back to it's original intent. Thanks

 

[basslover34]

Actually JGray, your posts are what leads this thread off topic. You are abbrasive and combative. Your posts do not offer positive feedback, rather they offer your opinion that you staunchly and zealously defend whether it is right or not. I've addressed your comments here with my opinion, we've had our discussion concerning your concerns and you've gottem my reply. At this point I consider those points made and it's time to move on.

Please refrain from beating a dead horse. The personal attacks, issues, and bias are taking this thread away from it's entended course. Discussion and debate are only positive when used in a constructive manner.

I'd like for a mod to please delete the previous inflmatory posts from all persons involved so that we can get this thread back to it's original intent. Thanks

I was having fun! but Sounds good to me!


Sorry about your friends loss, it might sound uncaring but I take it you have not been by to check on the tank since? I'm really curious to know how the first couple of coats dried

 

[Yanbbrox]

Pictures and the compulsory beer bottle and pepsi can for size reference, good work, thanks for updating us.

 

[necrocanis]

What a fun thread! I can't wait to see it filled up. I'll be fill testing my own 200 gal build that's winding down! Good luck!