Sump design, how does it look?
- Thread starter LowCel
- Start date
If i add a sock to my sump this is the mount i was planning on using. And its DIY http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UqCfvz7ByHo
I like that, just not sure how I can get it to work with my sump since it has the lip around it. Where there's a will there's a way though.hybridtheoryd16;2848762; said:
2 inch sounds a little big for a pump that size. The 2 4700 gph pumps I have are both 1.5.
A 2in bulkhead isn't that much bigger than a 1.5..... But I think you could probobly use 1.5 without losing much GPH.
Sockmounts....... Yup, Menards. Get a sheet of 1/4 in acrylic and cut 4 holes in it.... Bam sock mount. Use some 3/4 in pvc with threaded ends for legs. Cut holes in the sock mount plate and run the threaded PVC through them. That or glue strips to the sump walls to set the tray on. Or don't cut the tray except for the sock mount holes and build a little stand out of pvc to set the sock plate on.
Just keep in mind it HAS to be fairly simple to change the socks or it starts becoming dreadedly UN fun. Either the sock tray or the drain tubes will have to move. If the drains are stationary make the tray removable. If the tubes can come off then you could make the tray permenent. I brainstewed over this lil obstacle for many weeks. I ended up opting for securing the drain tubes permenently to a settling chamber then just put 4 bulkheads in the chamber wall dumping out into 4 socks. That way I could avoid trying to split the drains from 2-4 to hit all the socks. Got rid of alot of plumming, allowed everything to be permenent since the socks didn't have to be directly under the drains, making changing them really simple. PLUS if the settling chamber works right most of the heavy craap will sit in the chamber till a bottom drain valve is flipped.... NEVER even touching the filter socks.
Another option would be to cut slits or holes in 4 in pvc and glue to the bottom of sump. Mount socks in the tubes.
A 2in bulkhead isn't that much bigger than a 1.5..... But I think you could probobly use 1.5 without losing much GPH.
Sockmounts....... Yup, Menards. Get a sheet of 1/4 in acrylic and cut 4 holes in it.... Bam sock mount. Use some 3/4 in pvc with threaded ends for legs. Cut holes in the sock mount plate and run the threaded PVC through them. That or glue strips to the sump walls to set the tray on. Or don't cut the tray except for the sock mount holes and build a little stand out of pvc to set the sock plate on.
Just keep in mind it HAS to be fairly simple to change the socks or it starts becoming dreadedly UN fun. Either the sock tray or the drain tubes will have to move. If the drains are stationary make the tray removable. If the tubes can come off then you could make the tray permenent. I brainstewed over this lil obstacle for many weeks. I ended up opting for securing the drain tubes permenently to a settling chamber then just put 4 bulkheads in the chamber wall dumping out into 4 socks. That way I could avoid trying to split the drains from 2-4 to hit all the socks. Got rid of alot of plumming, allowed everything to be permenent since the socks didn't have to be directly under the drains, making changing them really simple. PLUS if the settling chamber works right most of the heavy craap will sit in the chamber till a bottom drain valve is flipped.... NEVER even touching the filter socks.
Another option would be to cut slits or holes in 4 in pvc and glue to the bottom of sump. Mount socks in the tubes.
Hillarious.Camshaft Ramrod;2837741; said:I think the filter pad on the drip plate and the tow socks would be enough filtration. Canisters are for lazy people with no imagination.
I improved it a bit. here;
View attachment 328747
You'll love a RUGF on that tank. If you feed primarily live or cut foods, you will only have to gravel vac once every six months to a year. When I switched to primarily pellets, the debris loading went up significantly (high bone meal content).LowCel;2837784; said:
It's amazing how helpful this thread has been so far. Knowing that I can just use 4" pvc makes the possibilities endless. I'm sure I will be able to figure something out.
How does just using four - 4" pieces of pvc and notching them at the bottom and using egg crate with to keep them in place? Seems pretty easy. I'll just need to figure out something as far as making it easy to move the input pipes to replace the socks.
How does just using four - 4" pieces of pvc and notching them at the bottom and using egg crate with to keep them in place? Seems pretty easy. I'll just need to figure out something as far as making it easy to move the input pipes to replace the socks.
Unions in the drains..........
Not 100% on the 4in but it should work. If you end up adding a drain in addition to the pump hole right under the socks would be a good spot. That way you don't have any contamination of bio when you service the socks, just drain all the crap.
Not 100% on the 4in but it should work. If you end up adding a drain in addition to the pump hole right under the socks would be a good spot. That way you don't have any contamination of bio when you service the socks, just drain all the crap.
Is drilling the holes pretty easy as long as you use patience? I'm a little worried about drilling a brand new tank.
It's a slow process. Lack of patients is what causes the most problems. When you are about to punch through, you need to take a lot of the pressure off of the drill so that it doesn't chip the other side like crazy. Don't use a lot of pressure while you are doing the drilling; just use the weight of your drill for the pressure. It is a grinding operation rather than a brute force cutting operation.
