I went with the eshopps hob overflow. Thx for the tip. Gonna add those to the list
1st time sump opinions needed
- Thread starter jaws7777
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I went with the eshopps hob overflow. Thx for the tip. Gonna add those to the list
@millerkid519 would another option be to cement a peice of pvc to the overflow then join it with a union down to the sump ?
Just finished hunting zonbies with my son amd wc's are done. So i doodled this.
You guys see anything that should be done differently ?
You guys see anything that should be done differently ?
This is for the final set-up correct? I ask since I thought you were going to do a test set-up.
Either way, use Unions or what Miller did so that you can disconnect near the bulkhead for maintenance if ever needed. For the primary drain, a gate valve is -good no ball valve needed. What about other drains? Typing on phone so keeping it brief ;-)
Either way, use Unions or what Miller did so that you can disconnect near the bulkhead for maintenance if ever needed. For the primary drain, a gate valve is -good no ball valve needed. What about other drains? Typing on phone so keeping it brief ;-)
Do you absolutely need the 90*? I do, but avoid if not necessary. Lets cover drain first.
Its for the final set up for the sump for the 75 gal. The reall fun with be this summer.
So my thought process for the ball valve would be use during wc's (usually do near fin level) i could close tje ball valve leave the gate alone and when shes all filled up just open the ball and not have to play with the gate again.
I dont know how to make the 45's work
Lol same answer i dont know how to make the 45's givee the angle to go back straight up against the tank. To the return nozzle and the same for the over flow side
Hhhhmm...for WC what would be the need to close off the drain valves? Is there something specific with the eshopp overflow?
If you cannot come strait down to the sump, and 45* won't work, then that's fine. I used a 90* on one second drain as well. Same with returns.
If you cannot come strait down to the sump, and 45* won't work, then that's fine. I used a 90* on one second drain as well. Same with returns.
I should have been more clear sorry.... meant that i could just close the ball valve to keep the siphon going then just open it back up, instead of closing the gate and having to adjust it again. Inless im looking at it all wrong which isnt unlikely
I can go straigjt down from the tank to the sumps but wpuldnt i need atleast 1 90 to go into the filter sock ?
Frank --
You need to put either/or one of these....
In the return line, you need a check vavle--what I did because it was simple, and low thought.
OR, you could drill a hole in the top of the return line where it "U's" into the tank, put a little fitting and a hose that goes back into the tank/overflow just under the water level--tank starts to drain, water level falls below the end of the hose and it draws in air and breaks the siphon.
Dont' want a power outage to happen, return siphons water outta the display, and you get more water into the sump than you planned on.
Know what I mean?
You need to put either/or one of these....
In the return line, you need a check vavle--what I did because it was simple, and low thought.
OR, you could drill a hole in the top of the return line where it "U's" into the tank, put a little fitting and a hose that goes back into the tank/overflow just under the water level--tank starts to drain, water level falls below the end of the hose and it draws in air and breaks the siphon.
Dont' want a power outage to happen, return siphons water outta the display, and you get more water into the sump than you planned on.
Know what I mean?