1st time sump opinions needed

[DN328]

Unless I'm misunderstanding you, I dont think the ball valve is needed. More importantly, there should be something in place to stop the siphon and/or your sump should be able to take some backflow in case the pump is off for a WC or if there's a power failure. When you're ready to start the pump back up, you should be able to automatically start the siphon as the system starts to flow and you'll reach that equilibrium sort of speak between the drain and return. just trying to make sure you don't do something that's not needed or missing something. Not to confuse you too.

True, if the pipes are running in the back you would need to angle into the sump. You likely know better hows that going to be given how your specific layout

 

[DN328]

We posted at the same, and Ragin and my points are essentially aligned. We just said it differently LOL

 

[jaws7777]

Frank --

You need to put either/or one of these....
In the return line, you need a check vavle--what I did because it was simple, and low thought.
OR, you could drill a hole in the top of the return line where it "U's" into the tank, put a little fitting and a hose that goes back into the tank/overflow just under the water level--tank starts to drain, water level falls below the end of the hose and it draws in air and breaks the siphon.

Dont' want a power outage to happen, return siphons water outta the display, and you get more water into the sump than you planned on.

Know what I mean?

I think so. I planned on drilling a hole in the return nozzle (from the pump to the tank) to break the siphon incase i lose power. That what you mean ?

Unless I'm misunderstanding you, I dont think the ball valve is needed. More importantly, there should be something in place to stop the siphon and/or your sump should be able to take some backflow in case the pump is off for a WC or if there's a power failure. When you're ready to start the pump back up, you should be able to automatically start the siphon as the system starts to flow and you'll reach that equilibrium sort of speak between the drain and return. just trying to make sure you don't do something that's not needed or missing something. Not to confuse you too.

True, if the pipes are running in the back you would need to angle into the sump. You likely know better hows that going to be given how your specific layout

Your not confusing me... i think im the one that is being confusing. I think i know what you mean. What i was saying is that during a wc if i just close the ball valve i could open it again when the tank is filled to regain the siphon with out having to mess with the gate valve. Are you saying that its not nessasary because the siphon will start when the water level flows back into the overflow box amd i restart the pump ?

Im sorry if i have no idea what im saying and being confusing

 

[millerkid519]

Just finished hunting zonbies with my son amd wc's are done. So i doodled this.

You guys see anything that should be done differently ?
View attachment 1165535

Gate valve and ball valve are not needed in the overflow and if you use abs cupping you don't need the union on the overflow but you can use it if you want to. With the eshopps overflow you do not loose syphon while using doing water changes.

 

[DN328]

The reason I advised gate valve was I thought we were going for Herbie drains. The gate valve on the full siphon drain will enable initial tuning - better than ball valves. Second reason would be to close off for maintenance. Good to know that eshopp will just keep a siphon.

Are we still doing Herbie with the eshopp overflow...LOL

 

[jaws7777]

The reason I advised gate valve was I thought we were going for Herbie drains. The gate valve on the full siphon drain will enable initial tuning - better than ball valves. Second reason would be to close off for maintenance. Good to know that eshopp will just keep a siphon.

Are we still doing Herbie with the eshopp overflow...LOL

Ahahah ok this is a little practice sump fpry 75 gal. The herbie is going to be done this summer when i get the new tank. I was trying to do this to learn as much as i can before i start the real sump.

To be honest i may end up doing a sump for my 150 too. You guys opened up a whole new world of filtration for me. I was never a diy guy but now all i do is read older sump builds and watch sump vids on you tube.

Gate valve and ball valve are not needed in the overflow and if you use abs cupping you don't need the union on the overflow but you can use it if you want to. With the eshopps overflow you do not loose syphon while using doing water changes.

Im not disagreeing with you so dont take this the wrong way i just visually can see it in my head.
If i do a fin level wc the over flow the eshopps isnt going to lose siphon ?

 

[millerkid519]

No you are fine I have syphoned out of my main tank while running all it does is drop the level in your sump.
The flow will slow down threw the u tube but it will not break syphon unless you have an air stone close to the overflow box.

 

[jaws7777]

Ok makes sense man. You think installing a valve anyway would do harm ? I have no good reasons at this point for installing it other than just wanting to play around lol.

So the overflow came cant wait to start setting this up.

So you guys support all the plumbing under the tank ?

No you are fine I have syphoned out of my main tank while running all it does is drop the level in your sump.
The flow will slow down threw the u tube but it will not break syphon unless you have an air stone close to the overflow box.

 

[millerkid519]

Ya your plumbing looks good to me and there is no reason you can use it.

 

[DN328]

Jaws, it's your call on the valves. But when it comes to the "real" implementation, and you are using the Herbie, you will want to use a gate valve on the primary. I also say use unions so that you can easily disassemble as needed. No need for both gate valve and ball valve. Eshopp or not, done right the drain will siphon.

I look forward almost as much as you now hahaha