• We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo

1st time sump opinions needed

I'll throw in my sump design. I played with a few ideas before settling on this one. The sock filters the major stuff out, so the focus on the rest of the design is biological. The water goes from the sock compartment over the top of the panel into the mini bio-ball area. I stocked this with one box of Marineland mini bio-balls and the flow of the water keeps them rotating and spinning. You could use K2 or any other media here too. I have two pieces of gutter foam at the bottom to keep the bio-balls in this area. The water travels out the bottom and into the media area then. I keep a 8x8x4 block of Cermedia MarinePure in here in front and 2L of SubstratPro in a laundry bag in back. The water does flow through these, but is not forced through.

Sidetrack - I tried another design as well which includes flow through media, which I'll post too - I didn't see any real world differences in using either, I did find it harder to maintain the media in the flow through design because it was open media and harder to remove.

Back to the original, the water then flows over the last panel into the return area where the heater is and the pump. The heater could also go elsewhere, in my tank the pump cuts off before getting low enough to expos the heater so it's safe. I also have this divided off from the media because this section is where you'll notice the water goes down as it evaporates. At full my water level is a 1/4" below the last panel. The panel is angled so the sound of the water isn't heard as the level drops, it just runs down the side of the panel.

sump design.jpg
 
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Here is the other design I ran for awhile. I do like this design and ran the SubstratPro in the high flow media section. I just wasn't happy when I needed to collect all the little balls to clean it. I'm thinking of doing this design again with a different media.

sump design 1.jpg
 
Thx appreciate you taking the the time to explain your sump
 
I'm a fan of jebao pumps. You might want to look at the DCT pumps that are sold by jecod, they are the same thing just the newer model. I'm not sure it's actually any better than the normal DC pumps, so I would go with whatever is cheaper.

I'm running the DCT 6000. Haven't had it long, but so far I have no complaints. Seems quite efficient and is very quiet.
 
So i could/should go for the dc6000 (1585 gph) then throttle it back to match the 800gph of the eshopps.

What diamter pvc do i go with from overflow to sump ? The eshopps bulk head is 1 inch so im guessing 1 inch lol

From the pump to the tank would be 1 inch as well ?

Thiugh that the description for the dc6000 said it comes with 1 inch barbed fitting.

Also why are pvc preferred over tubing. Looks like i could get the tubing to match the eshopps ?

Would this be appropriate for the return to the tank ?
http://www.amazon.com/U-Tube-Direct..._UL160_SR160,160_&refRID=19Z1FW4CVVC9CAQAT6A0
 
1 in drains and 3/4 return, I think. PVC is cheap and super versatile, and I think most of the tubing types have different flaws. If you build around it I think you can utilize tubing but that kind of tears away at the versatility of sumps. Return looks fine albeit a bit ugly lol. The other guys will know more.
 
I run a DCT 6000 with a 1" return on a 150 gallon and it's more than enough. If you choose to go with a DCT, I'd think the 4000 with 3/4" return would be plenty for your application.
 
Thanks guys. So if its 1inch in why 3/4 out ?
 
So i could/should go for the dc6000 (1585 gph) then throttle it back to match the 800gph of the eshopps.

What diamter pvc do i go with from overflow to sump ? The eshopps bulk head is 1 inch so im guessing 1 inch lol

From the pump to the tank would be 1 inch as well ?

Thiugh that the description for the dc6000 said it comes with 1 inch barbed fitting.

Also why are pvc preferred over tubing. Looks like i could get the tubing to match the eshopps ?

Would this be appropriate for the return to the tank ?
http://www.amazon.com/U-Tube-Directional-Return-inch/dp/B007Y7PATI/ref=pd_sim_199_3?ie=UTF8&dpID=21BeRd+HhLL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160,160_&refRID=19Z1FW4CVVC9CAQAT6A0

The barb is used for tubing. You could use PVC as well and not use the barb in that case. Personally, I like using PVC for it's function and its looks. I like the clean look of PVC piping and better to add gate valve and/or ball valves to control the drain flow (from overflow to sump). There's no rule that you must use. Again, some just like it better. Typically for the return to tank, you can "T" off the 1" pipe to two 3/4" pvc/tubes lines for your returns. You can add loc-lines at the end.

Although I think the DC4000 would work, the DC6000 is only a bit more in cost and you can also just run at a lower setting. But that's just the way I think.