building a 1000 gal concrete block monster tank

[wizzin]

Oh, I just read this part.

Wizzin’ did send us some other photos in order to show me just how well he sealed the surface of the block and asked “why is it still leaking”? I circled obvious areas in RED to show spots of concern and let him know that these are holes (very large pores in the block) that would require just a little patching with LRB/TAV mixture. Inexpensive/light weight block is extremely porous. You can see that he has previously attempted to FILL these holes with PermaFlex (light colored blotches). I informed him that PermaFlex is not designed to fill anything and LRB/TAV mixture is designed for this very purpose. ‘Wizzin’ became more agitated. The fact is, ‘Wizzin’ did not have any more LRB/TAV mixture because he did not order enough to perform such minor patching where it is necessary. ‘Wizzin’ believes that this is our fault.

What a (insert explicits here) @#%Q#$$%@#%@%#$@%#@# LIAR!!!!

He keeps saying those are HOLES. THey're not! They ARE depressions, which are completely filled with permaflex! I cannot visually find any holes in the tank. I actually have no idea why it's leaking. If it were as easy as patching a few holes, DON'T YOU THINK I WOULD HAVE PATCHED THE HOLES?

Like I've said before, the tank doesn't leak at 500 gallons. It DOES at 1000 or so, so to me that says that the product fails at higher pressure, because it's nothing more than expensive latex paint!!!!

BTW. I think Johnptc uses pond armor.

I'm going to post pictures of my cell phone records showing 15 minute phone calls to sanitred PRIOR to ordering, when they told me how much to order.

This is a case of a company CLAIMING their product is better than it is, and CLAIMING that is doesn't take as much material as it does to do the job just to sell the product. If they told you up front that concrete block requires 6 or 7 coats and would cost you $700 to seal, would you buy it? NO. That's the problem here. They SOLD me on the product up front saying "oh, you'll only need "x" amount of material", then when it doesn't work, they say, "oh, you'll have to order more material"

DO NOT TRUST THEM.

I'm calling to talk to a supervisor tomorrow. This is false advertising IMO.

 

[Sani-Tred Rep.]

Wizzin ... if you didn't receive any instructions with your order, why wouldn't you call or email? That just doesn’t make any sense ... not on an application this size. You would have received them immediately. I could understand if you were just coating a mailbox or something.

Wizzin … you are correct with what is shown in that image. That calculation is from our basement waterproofing calculator. That price quote is for waterproofing a block wall basement that is 100’ long, 45’ wide and 8’ deep. That’s 3 coats on the wall, 2 coats on the floor, enough LRB/TAV mixture to seal the wall/floor junction. If you compare the cost for ‘water mitigation’ (which is water redirection) you’ll find that it is less than half the cost.

Your ‘proof’ that you called? Who denied that you called? 3 coats is suggested for all block surfaces. Anyone can apply 4 or even 5. All your quotation says regarding that matter was “I decided to go 4 coats instead of 3 too, and I need another gallon”. Your quotation is merely your interpretation of a phone conversation you had.

3 coats on block … 2 coats on poured concrete. LRB/TAV mixture is for ALL patching. We do not deviate from what has been online within our site for years.

This is a simple fix as was explained to you repeatedly … just find your leak and it’s all over. If you spent 1/4 of the time finding this leak as you have typing this would have been over months ago. You’re talking about a couple spots here.

 

[Bizarroterl]

wizzin,
resorting to name calling won't help. If I were the supervisor and I read your posts I would be disinclined to help you.

sugar always works better than vinegar.

 

[wizzin]

Wizzin ... if you didn't receive any instructions with your order, why wouldn't you call or email? That just doesn’t make any sense ... not on an application this size. You would have received them immediately. I could understand if you were just coating a mailbox or something.

Wizzin … you are correct with what is shown in that image. That calculation is from our basement waterproofing calculator. That price quote is for waterproofing a block wall basement that is 100’ long, 45’ wide and 8’ deep. That’s 3 coats on the wall, 2 coats on the floor, enough LRB/TAV mixture to seal the wall/floor junction. If you compare the cost for ‘water mitigation’ (which is water redirection) you’ll find that it is less than half the cost.

Your ‘proof’ that you called? Who denied that you called? 3 coats is suggested for all block surfaces. Anyone can apply 4 or even 5. All your quotation says regarding that matter was “I decided to go 4 coats instead of 3 too, and I need another gallon”. Your quotation is merely your interpretation of a phone conversation you had.

3 coats on block … 2 coats on poured concrete. LRB/TAV mixture is for ALL patching. We do not deviate from what has been online within our site for years.

This is a simple fix as was explained to you repeatedly … just find your leak and it’s all over. If you spent 1/4 of the time finding this leak as you have typing this would have been over months ago. You’re talking about a couple spots here.

If 3 is all that is needed, then why didn't 4 work? I patched all of the "holes" you claim you see in those photos, and it still leaks, so what's the answer to that?

I said I called because you claim I ordered the product based on your calculator. The amount I ordered was based on your rep telling me the same thing the calculator told me. Simple question. If you informed me up front about the product required for this job, then why did I order from you? If ANYONE at sanitred would have told me this before I ordered, I wouldn't have. Isn't this obvious?

And I'll ask you again. How do you suggest I find a leak that appears through 8 inches of concrete? The leak could be 3 feet away from where it appears due to gravity, and the path it takes through the wall.

wizzin,
resorting to name calling won't help. If I were the supervisor and I read your posts I would be disinclined to help you.

sugar always works better than vinegar.

I am so upset because of this guy that I HAVE resorted to name calling. He is absolutely flat out lying and trying to do damage control for sanitred and I hate it when people lie to save their arse.

 

[wizzin]

This is frustrating. Now it's that the pores of the block have to be filled level with LRB prior to painting on the permaflex. What's wrong here is that their application instructions keep changing.

I actually asked about using a skim coat of concrete on the block too, and they said it wasn't necessary. This is BS.

Bottom line. You need a TON more of this material than they'll tell you. So don't take the cost that they give you up front as the truth.

Go with Pond armor which is a ONE coat thick application. Or what John PTC did with epoxy.

 

[Sani-Tred Rep.]

This is frustrating. Now it's that the pores of the block have to be filled level with LRB prior to painting on the permaflex. What's wrong here is that their application instructions keep changing.
.

Whoa ... where did that come from? Are you just making this up as you go along? Just calm down are read what was written. Nothing changed.

Wizzin one could apply tar, cement ... even peanut butter on the wall before applying Sani-Tred. This is NOT suggested as I stated in my previous post. A scrim coat inhibits Sani-Tred (or anything else for that matter) from permanently adhering to the block itself.

You are insinuating that water is passing through the seamless solid rubber ... this is impossible and if it were true, you would be the first person in over 20 years that this has happened to. Congratulations you made history. You have a couple of holes to find ... that's all. PermaFlex is NOT for FILLING holes and never has been. This was explained to you, you opted to apply a 4th coat of PermaFlex instead. The solution is simple ... all this requires is a thimble full of LRB/TAV mixture to those locations.

 

[wizzin]

Whoa ... where did that come from? Are you just making this up as you go along? Just calm down are read what was written. Nothing changed.

Wizzin one could apply tar, cement ... even peanut butter on the wall before applying Sani-Tred. This is NOT suggested as I stated in my previous post. A scrim coat inhibits Sani-Tred (or anything else for that matter) from permanently adhering to the block itself.

You are insinuating that water is passing through the seamless solid rubber ... this is impossible and if it were true, you would be the first person in over 20 years that this has happened to. Congratulations you made history. You have a couple of holes to find ... that's all. PermaFlex is NOT for FILLING holes and never has been. This was explained to you, you opted to apply a 4th coat of PermaFlex instead. The solution is simple ... all this requires is a thimble full of LRB/TAV mixture to those locations.

the thing is, that those pictures are from the opposite side of the tank from where it is leaking.

I already slathered a 1/8" thick coat of lrb all over the area where it appeared to be leaking and it still leaks. My camera is charging and when it's done I'll post that I did exactly what you're suggesting I do to fix this. Patching is NOT the answer, because I can't find the holes.

That's why I contacted you in the first place. At this point it appears that the only way to ensure that it's sealed is to cover the entire interior again. That's the same logic that drove me to using 4 coats instead of 3. When I ordered the second batch, the person I talked to actually suggested I apply a 4th coat, and they said that sometimes block requires more coats than they suggest.

They never said anything about using lrb to try to fill every little divit of the block. that's all those are. In the pictures, those indentations are about 1/8" round by 1/16" deep. The lighting is above and to the left of the camera, and creates nice shadows on every little bump. All this boasting on the website about penetrating 1-1/2" into the concrete, and it creates an inpenetrable barrier, blah blah blah. Is crap if even a 1/16" divit can be the cause for complete failure in a holding environment.

Nobody ever said I had to fill every little bump with LRB. IN fact, someone I talked to said that it wasn't necessary to even go over the grout lines unless they were pretty rough.

so now you're saying that those little divits are the cause of failure and that they need patched with LRB.

IF any other observers think I'm nuts, please post so, so that I can stop.

 

[Sani-Tred Rep.]

This is not true and you are once again misinterpreting what you have been told. You were never told that it sometimes takes more than 3 coats of PermaFlex which is typically suggested. What you were in fact told (and you left this part out) is that some CHEAP and light weight block is EXTREMELY porous and may require some minor patching here and there.

Like I said before, those are the ONLY photos I’ve received from day one. All you do is argue with our suggestions and you evidently have no idea what you are doing because you said you never had any instructions and never requested for them (if this is in fact true).

I have put up with your slander, verbal abuse, manipulation and dishonesty for far too long. Any credibility you may have had is now gone in my opinion.

I apologize to all of you for having to jump into your forum. This is not a worthy discussion … I’m done.

 

[malawi haps]

Wizzin just find out what john used put that over what you currently have (exspensive primer) and call it a day.Hope everything works out for you .

 

[malawi haps]

He used a product called "pond shield"