Cheap plants, less nitrate! POTHOS

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
Idk what u mean by passive n active system

Algae scrubbers require a pump to move the water (active). Most Pothos just have their roots in the tank (passive).


Basically algae scrubbers use light and surface area to grow algae which consumes various nutrients, such as nitrates. This is good especially if your having algae growth problems as it is, however these systems can be complicated and cost a lot of money,

I do not have any algae in the tank, but I have an algae scrubber. It is hard to predict exact bio load, but the tank with the scrubber can go a lot longer before seeing nitrate rise than my other tanks that have no scrubber. I was just wondering how the nitrate reducing ability of the two stacked up. Looking back on it I can see this is a complicated question (area of scrubber, etc) in many ways.

Again, F1, great thread. I have really enjoyed it.
 
Algae scrubbers require a pump to move the water (active). Most Pothos just have their roots in the tank (passive).


I do not have any algae in the tank, but I have an algae scrubber. It is hard to predict exact bio load, but the tank with the scrubber can go a lot longer before seeing nitrate rise than my other tanks that have no scrubber. I was just wondering how the nitrate reducing ability of the two stacked up. Looking back on it I can see this is a complicated question (area of scrubber, etc) in many ways.

Again, F1, great thread. I have really enjoyed it.

Thanks for your great insight stock, and thanks for your compliments, we all know during winter heating water costs more money, and this is a great, cheap and simple way to reduce the need for wc! I'm glad you enjoyed it and learned from it, I tend to notice each plant depending on size after the first month consumes on avg 5-15ppm, but the more mine grows the more it consumes, my last test showed even more reduction, at this point I could get away with 1x 20%(25gals)wc/week (n03 spiking @30-35ppm) which in a 125gal heavily stocked with adult red belly Piranha that is awesome and I have zero algae growth! And I'm sure a scrubber and pothos can achieve a lot as far as n03 reduction, definitely try it and post your results, happy to have you on this thread :)


Thanks again!

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A user here recommended I use clippings as oppose to a plant that came from a pot. Can someone enlighten me as to what this is and how to go about it? Had no luck with potted pothos that I cleaned, clipped roots and added.... twice. Thanks

A clone will work fine, its just takes a potted plant time to acclimate and grow hydro roots, also pothos needs n03 to grow, is your tank cycled? Is the plant getting gph of tank water? Picture? Thx

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*Go S. Vettel #1 RBR! 3 BACK TO BACK WDC AND CONSTRUCTERS! :cheers:
 
A clone will work fine, its just takes a potted plant time to acclimate and grow hydro roots, also pothos needs n03 to grow, is your tank cycled? Is the plant getting gph of tank water? Picture? Thx

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*Go S. Vettel #1 RBR! 3 BACK TO BACK WDC AND CONSTRUCTERS! :cheers:

I have no idea how this clone stuff works which is what I'm asking. If anyone can direct me to pothos specific info that would be great.
I keep stingrays so Nitrates are my worst enemy but the test yields a result of 2.5ppm (which is the cycled #) No plants in there now so a picture would just show off my tank lol. Should they be directly in the current (the roots) or off to a corner in slow flow? Thanks much would love some pothos in my system.
 
I have no idea how this clone stuff works which is what I'm asking. If anyone can direct me to pothos specific info that would be great.
I keep stingrays so Nitrates are my worst enemy but the test yields a result of 2.5ppm (which is the cycled #) No plants in there now so a picture would just show off my tank lol. Should they be directly in the current (the roots) or off to a corner in slow flow? Thanks much would love some pothos in my system.

Yes roots need good water movement, more the better.

As far as clones just take a clipping of the plant and make sure the stem can touch water,basically you just cut it at the stem a few inches below the leaf, here's more info on clippings: http://m.voices.yahoo.com/how-propagate-pothos-devils-ivy-houseplant-4911308.html

As far as nitrates go 2.5ppm is nothing, hopefully your not confusing this with ammonia or nitrite because those two are extremely toxic. Maybe you meant 25ppm?

Any who feel free to ask whatever questions you have regarding pothos and your tank, happy to help.

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http://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/forums/showthread.php?504763-Cheap-plants-less-nitrate!-POTHOS

*Go S. Vettel #1 RBR! 3 BACK TO BACK WDC AND CONSTRUCTERS! :cheers:
 
Yes roots need good water movement, more the better.

As far as clones just take a clipping of the plant and make sure the stem can touch water,basically you just cut it at the stem a few inches below the leaf, here's more info on clippings: http://m.voices.yahoo.com/how-propagate-pothos-devils-ivy-houseplant-4911308.html

As far as nitrates go 2.5ppm is nothing, hopefully your not confusing this with ammonia or nitrite because those two are extremely toxic. Maybe you meant 25ppm?

Any who feel free to ask whatever questions you have regarding pothos and your tank, happy to help.

_________________________________________________________________________
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*Go S. Vettel #1 RBR! 3 BACK TO BACK WDC AND CONSTRUCTERS! :cheers:

Thanks will read up on the cloning process.
Looking at my test kit card and according to this:
Ph 6.4 (constant)
Ammonia 0ppm (sometimes goes to 1.0 at worst)
Nitrite 0 (always)
Nitrate is between 0ppm and 5.0ppm
 
Thanks will read up on the cloning process.
Looking at my test kit card and according to this:
Ph 6.4 (constant)
Ammonia 0ppm (sometimes goes to 1.0 at worst)
Nitrite 0 (always)
Nitrate is between 0ppm and 5.0ppm


Once the tank is cycled your ammonia shouldn't ever be detected just nitrate will show up, I think this is your problem and the reason your pothos keep dying from lack of n03, with your huge bio load you should be reading way more 40-80ppm, are you on a drip?

How long has the tank been set up, what fish and when did you add them into the tank? Thx
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http://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/forums/showthread.php?504763-Cheap-plants-less-nitrate!-POTHOS

*Go S. Vettel #1 RBR! 3 BACK TO BACK WDC AND CONSTRUCTERS! :cheers:
 
Once the tank is cycled your ammonia shouldn't ever be detected just nitrate will show up, I think this is your problem and the reason your pothos keep dying from lack of n03, with your huge bio load you should be reading way more 40-80ppm, are you on a drip?

How long has the tank been set up, what fish and when did you add them into the tank? Thx
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*Go S. Vettel #1 RBR! 3 BACK TO BACK WDC AND CONSTRUCTERS! :cheers:

No drip. Running two 2217 and one 2250 eheim.
Tank has been setup for a year or so but the eheims came from a 125 I had setup prior for almost two years so the bacteria has been in there prior to this 150 breeder. I rotate the maintenance on the eheims every 5ish months and only try to fully clean one at a time. When hoses get nasty I clean those out as well and whenever I see a loss of flow of visible build up.

My stock has changed drastically in the past few weeks, a lot going out and some stuff coming in. The ammonia spike occured after over feeding shrimp talapia and siversides when I got this 14" flower because everyone made me kind of paranoid about it getting stressed or having issues holding its own during feeding.
Prior to the over feeding I never had any ammonia issues and haven't had any since either.
Currently have a 7" mm, 11" orbignyi, 14" flower
3 5" dats, 1 6" dat
8" silver aro,
as of lastnight 4 5" clown loaches (to help clean scraps)
and within the last week went from 1 8" weeksii poly to 3 all under 8" (also to clean scraps)

Have since the ammo spike removed a 6" oscar and prior to that had a 12" endli and 14" ornate which have been traded for the larger dat and the clownloaches to help clean up as I suspect the problem was the vast over feeding for the week or two after I got the flower ray to ensure its survival. The rays tend to move the sand and cover the massivore pellets they didn't eat and maybe this was rotting away beneath the sand.

Tho I'm heavily stocked I do 50% water change every 5 to 10 days (max) and test and log my water parameters. Before this freak ammonia spike only Nitrates would get a little out of wack if I stretched the waterchange to 10days and have been over feeding.

The ammonia seemed to show up after the flower was being over fed and maybe the oscars messy pellet habits.

So far so good since and I haven't chnaged anything about my routine (after several 50%w/c to rid the ammonia)

As a precautionary measure I got a 1260 pump today for my 2250. Also I am Looking for an upgrade. Something 8x 3 x 20"ish. Because I'm well aware that eveything needs more space especially that flower.
 
No drip. Running two 2217 and one 2250 eheim.
Tank has been setup for a year or so but the eheims came from a 125 I had setup prior for almost two years so the bacteria has been in there prior to this 150 breeder. I rotate the maintenance on the eheims every 5ish months and only try to fully clean one at a time. When hoses get nasty I clean those out as well and whenever I see a loss of flow of visible build up.

My stock has changed drastically in the past few weeks, a lot going out and some stuff coming in. The ammonia spike occured after over feeding shrimp talapia and siversides when I got this 14" flower because everyone made me kind of paranoid about it getting stressed or having issues holding its own during feeding.
Prior to the over feeding I never had any ammonia issues and haven't had any since either.
Currently have a 7" mm, 11" orbignyi, 14" flower
3 5" dats, 1 6" dat
8" silver aro,
as of lastnight 4 5" clown loaches (to help clean scraps)
and within the last week went from 1 8" weeksii poly to 3 all under 8" (also to clean scraps)

Have since the ammo spike removed a 6" oscar and prior to that had a 12" endli and 14" ornate which have been traded for the larger dat and the clownloaches to help clean up as I suspect the problem was the vast over feeding for the week or two after I got the flower ray to ensure its survival. The rays tend to move the sand and cover the massivore pellets they didn't eat and maybe this was rotting away beneath the sand.

Tho I'm heavily stocked I do 50% water change every 5 to 10 days (max) and test and log my water parameters. Before this freak ammonia spike only Nitrates would get a little out of wack if I stretched the waterchange to 10days and have been over feeding.

The ammonia seemed to show up after the flower was being over fed and maybe the oscars messy pellet habits.

So far so good since and I haven't chnaged anything about my routine (after several 50%w/c to rid the ammonia)

As a precautionary measure I got a 1260 pump today for my 2250. Also I am Looking for an upgrade. Something 8x 3 x 20"ish. Because I'm well aware that eveything needs more space especially that flower.

Seems like you added to many fish to fast and your bacteria couldn't keep up thus a mini cycle occurred, adding to the problem seems to be overfeeding and not enough wc imo.

Id shoot for 2x 40% wc per week and remember when fish get bigger their metabolic rate slows so you don't need to feed as frequent, once every day should be fine and you should even skip a day every week. Feeding less will help ammonia and nitrates and even less wc, as will pothos. If you had 1 or 2 nice big plants you could probably swing 1x/week 60% wc!

Seems like you really care about your fish, I commend you for that! :thumbup:

_________________________________________________________________________
http://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/forums/showthread.php?504763-Cheap-plants-less-nitrate!-POTHOS

*Go S. Vettel #1 RBR! 3 BACK TO BACK WDC AND CONSTRUCTERS! :cheers:
 
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