Pharaoh;2480524; said:
Nice try though Take a glass with you into a swimming pool... pull it down into the water till you no longer can without it filling with water....Then go to the Lake (since your inland no ocean to do this with) and do the same experiment... Result... The glass holds it back no matter how much water is around it... make the glass taller and you run the risk of it breaking (Pressure is based on Depth.. not volume or width, those only change the bracing needs)
The width of the tank adds to the force exerted on the sides of the tank. With more water comes more pressure.basslover34;2483206; said:
, lol. Love your vids, sorry to hear about your tank - but the addition to it sounds interesting. What are you going to do about your filtration setup though, you're not going to have all that much space left for serviceing your tank in that room after the addition is put on.I think your confusing Bracing needs verus Glass thickness. Ameli0's thread is based on Commercial standards. those numbers are all to keep Bowing to a minimum which would be the reason for glass failure, Adding bracing via the Thickness in an All glass tank is the most plesant looking way to do so... is it required to be done... No, If the span is to long then it's the Bowing which will casue the failure... Same Princaples are easily looked at with a 40G Long Vs a 40G Wide tank... Both are the same glass thickness but a 40G Long has a center brace when a 40G Wide doesn't... because the chances of a bowing effect breaking the glass in a 40 L is much higher than in the 40 W.Pharaoh;2485762; said:
Check out the Catfish section... or my threads in there... Most are listedTheFishGuy;2484551; said:
The Old frame will be fine with these changes... the biggest pressure increase will be inside that Pit which is being added... which if I understand correctly is going to be dug into the ground so... Not really much of an issueEgon;2496398; said:
